Refurb underway (finally)

[Mazza]

Too cold to go and work in the garage today....sun’s out but the wind is freezing here on the south coast.

So I have stayed in the warm and taking my time over sorting out where I need to cut the armrest down.
( dont want anymore cockups !!!!)


I will cut it with a 1mm cutting disc where I can and then a hacksaw if the disc cant reach.
I also have some sanding discs and flap discs, so should be able to shape it a bit at a time until I get the best fit.
I will start by removing the lower front part first, then cut off the two support lugs that stick out on the rear.

Once these parts are removed, it will leave a ‘box tower’ section. I can then check on what the final height needs to be and work back from that to get the final dimensions. But just taking off a bit at a time

Dont think I’ll bring the angle grinder indoors to cut it.....better do it outside tomorrow

 

[Mazza]

Still cold outside, but ventured out to cut down the armrest.

Marking it up as I go, cutting , removing all the masking tape then start on the next bit and retape the bit to cut.
The idea is not to cut off the wrong bit .

First cut off the two lugs.

They can be carefully filed flat later.
Then remove the bottom part of the L shaped mounting

Then the lower left half of the bracket

Which gets it to this stage. All the cuts have been made leaving a few millimetres of material to file off as dont want to try cutting to the actual line ( not confident enough )

Sits on the console ok but now the fun start of fettling it to get it exact.

The back wall of the tray is angled so there is a 7mm gap at the top. I will get round to sorting that once I get the lower faces flat so it sits correctly on the centre console.

Went over the parts that have to be reduced and angled by 2-3mm with some tippex to identify them.

Thats as far as I got as too cold outside and dont want all the dust indoors.....so that will be for tomorrow now.

I did put one bit back on the car this morning.....my token red exhaust bracket

It is red but looks orange in the picture

 

[ktnez99]

All done @Mazza

View attachment 135023 View attachment 135025 View attachment 135027 View attachment 135029 View attachment 135031

Incredible! How can black become red??? It’s magic!!! And a cracking good job @Jjim

 

[Mazza]

Finally got all the shaping done, so it now sits squarely on the console and at the right height.

Just as well I tried to fit the gaiter as I had to take off some of the overhang at the front of the short side, as the gaiter wouldn’t clip in.
Just filed the front edge of the armrest at an angle to allow clearance.

The side that drops into the tray can have 3 bolts to fix it and relatively easy to do. Two will got front to back, one above the other, and one will go through the webbing that protrudes forward and can be bolted into the centre section of the console.
I need to get one of the anchor points set into the shorter side so it can be bolted down from underneath. Still thinking about best way to do this.
( but it wont be using bloody resin, thats for sure !!!!!)

 

[Jjim]

Good idea to size it to fit first this time

I shall expect it soon for recolouring.

 

[Mazza]

Success......got the anchor bonded in. Fortunately there was a lot of material in that part of the moulding so drilled an 8mm hole, covered the M6 anchor in two part epoxy araldite rapid and tapped it in. Left it for 24hours and its solid.
Just two other anchors on the longer leg, and a 6mm hole on the front webbing piece to do today .....I know where they are going, just need to work out how,

 

[Mazza]

I worked it out .....

An M5 screw through the front webbing and into the centre console for stability. The nut is hidden underneath.
Probably paint the screw black later.

Two M6 bolts and a plate will replace these lower ones. These screw into the two anchors

The top one will be an M6 hex head bolt with a couple of washer

I will put some araldite round the two anchors (although don’t really need to this as the bolt will be pulling them to tighten anyway . ). Once that is cured, by midday tomorrow , get it in the post to have it coloured (@Jjim )

Always a worry when you start drilling into car parts, but this time no mistakes
Fortunately there was a lot tolerance on the two lower anchors and where the M5 one went.

 

[TrevD66]

Looking good @Mazza .... won’t be long and you’ll be out and about in it

 

[Jjim]

Looks like it’s all going to plan this time

 

[Mazza]

Glue all cured ....all boxed up .....next stop Mansfield

And recycling a strut box too...

 

[Jjim]

Glue all cured ....all boxed up .....next stop Mansfield
View attachment 137089
And recycling a strut box too...

And it’ll be used again for the return journey

 

[Philpatton]

Afternoon, I’m just about to start this very mod using an E46 armrest as well. Are you able to advise on the dimensions of the supporting vertical plastic column after cutting? P

 

[Mazza]

Hi Phil, when I get it back I’ll take photos and edit them with dimensions of what I have done.
But it really depends on how high you want the arm rest to sit

 

[Mazza]

Went out to bleed the brakes this morning now I have fluid.......so how did I get on.......urm.....

Sidetracked....

Seats removed as I needed to check for an electrical problem under the drivers seat.....which was only a disconnected plug......Find out what was causing a ‘clunk’ when the passenger seat when going forward and back. Caused by a Pair of nail scissors!!!! And doorcard seals taken off as they need to be repaired/replaced

While the door inners are open I’ll lubricate the window gear and lower window guides.

The only other thing I have done is to permanently fix the rear clip on the centre console. It will make it so much easier just to push and click in the tray once the console is positioned.

The funny thing is that both parts are stamped Alibert and not BMW, so not sure if they are the originals.

 

[GZed]

Went out to..
....Find out what was causing a ‘clunk’ when the passenger seat when going forward and back. Caused by a Pair of nail scissors!!!!

Pleased to hear they weren't hairdressing scissors! lol

 

[Mazza]

Garage door open and working in the sun this morning.
I repaired the door sound insulation when I found out it would be about 200.00 to get new ones.
Gorilla tape a lot cheaper.

Greased up the window mechanism, and was going to silicon the lower window guide when i found the rubber had split. It was in an awkward place but where there’s a will and all that.....

So a bit of superglue, and a bit of brass and a pencil to hold it and fixed

Next was to see about putting the sound inserts back but the door was covered in black goo which had to come off.

And the clips that hold the wiring at the bottom of the door were perished and most of them were laying in the bottom of the door. The clips them selves were ok just the tape had disintegrated.

View: https://youtu.be/WtNE3lwH3bo

 

[g8jka]

I took all them clips off my and cable tied the wires in place using the same loactions. Works just fine. Are you putting new butyl sealant back again to seal the membrane or do you have another way of doing it?

 

[Mazza]

I got this from Toolstation

I’ll just run a small bead round and push the sound proof panel onto it.

 

[mrscalex]

The panel is a moisture barrier rather than an acoustic one. The design of the door runs water through the inside and that stops it getting into the cabin. Very tidy taking off the old butyl but no real need in my view. In fact I think it helps to seal with the new stuff on top. I use butyl sealant on a strip as it's less messy to work with and I'm a do it like original geek.

 

[t-tony]

I got this from Toolstation
View attachment 137755

I’ll just run a small bead round and push the sound proof panel onto it.

I used this to stick the weather strip down across the Shed doors Malc, it does set whereas the butyl doesn’t fully cure.

Tony.