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Refurb underway (finally)

Discussion in 'Z3 Roadster & Coupé' started by Mazza, Jan 2, 2020.

  1. Mazza

    Mazza Zorg Guru (III)
    British Zeds The M44 Massive

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    Well this afternoon, I actually got underway with all the work. I will try to put as much info as I can, including all the trials and tribulations encountered.
    I am also lucky in having a nice size garage with a carpet ( upside down) on the floor so should be well insulated from the cold when laying on the floor. I would not be doing this if I had to work outside.:whistle::whistle:

    Well at least I look the part even if I don't know what I’m getting my self into !!!

    Tea is first on the agenda, but obviously its not a proper ZedShed as not a buttie in sight
    821E4315-58F5-4DED-98EC-CEBFA4825687.jpeg

    First thing to do get the car in the air.......This you would think is a simple operation, but I had to do it twice as I put the car too close to the garage wall and couldn’t open the bonnet because a shelf was in the way...Off to a flyer!!! =))

    Anyway got the car up in the air by lifting each side in turn. Placing a piece of 4x2 on its side on the jack and lifting the car between the jacking points ( vertically down from the wing mirrors lifted the car evenly, but mine is only the small M44 engine)
    Slid in axles stands and made sure ( @mrscalex ) everything located correctly and safely. All seemed to be ok as I did try rocking the car and it was solid and didn't move at all

    C4C9034E-871D-4263-BFF7-EF181D100E29.jpeg

    Removed the rear wheels using my new impact gun. ( cant remember who recommended this gun on the forum but thanks it worked well)
    DB21D722-A16D-4461-B881-5BF896B8131F.jpeg

    Next was to remove the spare wheel and carrier, dropped it down removed the tyre, unscrewed the drop down cable, then removed the cage bolt ( 10mm AF) This was all easy as I have had it off before and everything had copper grease.
    On to the exhaust, again lucky with mine as have a stainless steel exhaust with a middle spring loaded flange joint, which came apart easily.
    D3DA8B2A-29E3-42B9-B80A-B3BCBF00D639.jpeg
    Put in a couple of stands under the exhaust to take the weight .....it fell on me last time !!!!=))
    4C843E1E-F9B5-4FAF-B7BE-7D877EA87AD3.jpeg

    I undid the middle exhaust mounting bracket from the beam (13mmAF) as easier than trying to pull the rubber mounts off.

    Now it was the turn of the Prop Shaft. Before disconnecting the brakes , pulled the handbrake on tight and undid two of the propshaft/diff bolts (16mm AF), handbrake off, turned the brake drum to expose the other two bolts, handbrake on, and undid the other two. These were tight and not a lot of space so had to use a 16mm ring spanner with a 30mm spanner as additional leverage. ( as seen done by Ed China)
    Undoing these 4 nuts at this stage was a tip given to me by @Lee , as if you disconnect the handbrake first its hard to hold the propshaft.

    On to the Anti Roll Bar, Undid the top two brackets and then the bottom nut of the link brackets (13mm AF)
    Bit stuck but eventually succumbed to release fluid and my swearing at it =)).

    Now to release the springs.......jacked up the trailing arm, undid the bottom shock bolt (18mm AF) and lowered the arm........and the spring just sat there!!!!! Still appeared to be under pressure. At this point, and timing could not have been better, I got a message from @t-tony asking if the beam and axle were out.:bashhead:
    I replied and said I had a problem.....and help was at hand:thumbsup:.
    Found out what I needed to do , which was the correct application of a prybar, and hey presto
    6A4AC187-B316-4BC4-811F-B4886951C695.jpeg
    It just needed a bit of persuasion =))

    Thats all I did today , as most of the time was spent getting up and down off the floor to get the right size spanner or socket. And that was the hardest part!!!!

    Tomorrow morning will tidy up the garden shed so I can store all the parts so I’m not climbing over everything.

    OH Bu**er, I have just remembered.......I meant to spray the 4 off M8 captive nuts, the 2 off M14 beam bush nuts and the handbrake cable bushes to let them soak overnight......I will have to go and do that now :arghh::arghh:

    Then surely it must be time for another beer:drinks:
     
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  2. andyglym

    andyglym Shiny Dust Caps Make Your Zed Go Faster.
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    A great start mate :thumbsup:
     
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  3. billz

    billz Zorg Expert (I)
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    Will be a good sense of achievement when you have finished it :thumbsup:
     
  4. Lee

    Lee Zorg Guru (V)
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    Cracking job so far. Look forward to seeing it progress. :D
     
  5. Mazza

    Mazza Zorg Guru (III)
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    Update from earlier......
    Went out and liberally sprayed the bolts but couldn’t see where the brake cables go through into the cabin, due to a heatshield obscuring them. Heat shield is held up by 6 nuts on coarse thread studs. These are quite rusty so decided not to attempt undoing them but sprayed them as well and will try to loosen them off in the morning.
    The studs look similar to the ones that hold the front wheel arch cover in place ( the two fixings to the rear of the wheel) and I know to my cost how easy it is to snap these off.
     
  6. Althulas

    Althulas Zorg Guru (III)
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    Did you nuts look like these https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/153542536059 they come off we’ll fall apart quite easily if they are rusted up. Hopefully cheaper at BMW.

    It’s not to bad a job I found. I was dreading the hex nuts that hols the pin cover plates in situ but mine cracked off first attempt just gave them a good clean and made sure the hex was truly seated home.
     
  7. Mazza

    Mazza Zorg Guru (III)
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    They are so rusty difficult to tell, but if they are , I think cutting them off and replacing would be a good idea.
    Many thanks for the link.

    Yes the 4 hex nuts are giving me nightmares !!!=))
    Might just soak them all day tomorrow and try removing them at the weekend :eek:
     
  8. Stevo7682

    Stevo7682 Zorg Guru (V)
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  9. the Nefyn cat

    the Nefyn cat Zorg Guru (III)
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  10. Althulas

    Althulas Zorg Guru (III)
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    I forgotten I bought a set of those just for that job in mind as a just in case. Mnbrennan made me paranoid after he had a mare with his.
     
  11. Mazza

    Mazza Zorg Guru (III)
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    And thanks for passing the paranoia on to me. =))=))=))=))
     
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  12. Bazza

    Bazza Zorg Guru (IV)
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    Watching with interest:thumbsup::thumbsup:
     
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  13. Jjim

    Jjim Zorg Guru (IV)
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    Great work :thumbsup:

    Looking forward to seeing how this goes
     
  14. Faheem

    Faheem Zorg Guru (III)
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    For the heatshield, I was able to fold mine back very slightly to get to the handbrake cables so didn't actually have to remove the heatshield.

    And if you do decide to remove it and find that the bolts are stripped I would go with the sockets that Steve recommended as these have helped me many times.
     
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  15. gookah

    gookah Zorg Guru (IV)
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  16. Mazza

    Mazza Zorg Guru (III)
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    That made me laugh....brilliant =))=))=))


    Edit........Puts a whole new meaning to the phrase ‘ got the time on you mate’....
     
    #16 Mazza, Jan 2, 2020
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2020
  17. Grumps

    Grumps Zorg Expert (I)
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    Good skills mate. I too have carpet in the garage. Best thing I ever did, only problem is it's something else to have to hoover :arghh:
     
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  18. Synclare

    Synclare Zorg Guru (III)
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    Ref the beam catch plate hex bolts - using a small screwdriver dig out the crud from the hex recess until it's as clean as you can get it, then a couple of good whacks with a hammer on the bolt head will send a shock impact down the bolt (this is usually the secret that frees it) then drive home the hex key with a hammer to ensure it is fully seated before attempting to unscrew the setscrew (hexbolt) - never had a problem yet. Time spent properly preparing saves so much time in the long run trying to sort a mess from a rushed job.
     
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  19. Mazza

    Mazza Zorg Guru (III)
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    Run into a problem......the infamous M8 hex drive bolts that hold the plate to the chassis.
    Cleaned them out and I have an H6 socket ....but it only will fit in the front bolt on either side.
    C8588D46-60C9-4678-A8F1-E28B07476604.jpeg

    The larger diameter stops it from being in line with the rear bolt due to the shape of the plate.
    This is a 1/2 inch drive....would a 3/8 drive version be ok to use???? Or can you get 1/2 inch drive with a longer hex ???

    I don't want to take the chance of it slipping out or not being located in the bolt fully.
     
  20. Lee

    Lee Zorg Guru (V)
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    Yeah I use a 3/8 drive 6mm Hex socket. front bolt i use just the head the rear I need a short extension. But as @Synclare said above that's the exact method I use.
     
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