Time for an overhaul of my 1.9 '98 BMW Z3 Individual

hmmm interesting...cheers mate..I've emailed a licenced recycling company for a quote to take it away....I'll update when I get the quote
 
The biggest problem is usually water, when I emptied mine we could see maybe 1/4 cup at the bottom of the bucket. Poured off the fuel into cans, went into my lads car, poured the dregs through an old chamois to get the water out, that went into the strimmer can.

You can add pure ethanol, it combines with the water which mixes it with the petrol, Old Skool trick that. Usually used when you suspect water in the tank, quick fix without removing or draining the tank. It works.

There are petrol ‘drier’ chemicals from the likes of STP, etc, that do the same thing much more expensively, you see the barn find rescue guys on YouTube using those, and octane boosters, to run cars that have been sat for donkeys. I think the actual chemical is called iso-eet, / iso-heet, something like that, it’s a stabiliser/drier/booster all in one, or so I’m told, I’ve never used it myself.

I would just pour it into buckets, remove the water (it there’s any you’ll see it on the bottom of the bucket, like the bubble in a spirit level), clean the tank, reuse the petrol and add a can of octane booster. Done it several times without a problem.
 
You could also ‘dilute’ a fresh tank of petrol with the old stuff if you wanted to use it up gradually. I’d go for 98 or above octane if you are doing that though
 
IainP said:
The biggest problem is usually water, when I emptied mine we could see maybe 1/4 cup at the bottom of the bucket. Poured off the fuel into cans, went into my lads car, poured the dregs through an old chamois to get the water out, that went into the strimmer can.

You can add pure ethanol, it combines with the water which mixes it with the petrol, Old Skool trick that. Usually used when you suspect water in the tank, quick fix without removing or draining the tank. It works.

There are petrol ‘drier’ chemicals from the likes of STP, etc, that do the same thing much more expensively, you see the barn find rescue guys on YouTube using those, and octane boosters, to run cars that have been sat for donkeys. I think the actual chemical is called iso-eet, / iso-heet, something like that, it’s a stabiliser/drier/booster all in one, or so I’m told, I’ve never used it myself.

I would just pour it into buckets, remove the water (it there’s any you’ll see it on the bottom of the bucket, like the bubble in a spirit level), clean the tank, reuse the petrol and add a can of octane booster. Done it several times without a problem.
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Interesting stuff! I've never messed around with fuels, just pull the trigger on the pump and go!...I'll have a look at this, cheers Iain
 
AntStark said:
You could also ‘dilute’ a fresh tank of petrol with the old stuff if you wanted to use it up gradually. I’d go for 98 or above octane if you are doing that though
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cheers Ant...what I'm getting from this is that I'm better off just using new fuel. I don't have anything that uses petrol. All my garden stuff is electric.. :whistle:
 
I had the joys of going with old guys to resurrect stuff that had been sitting. With Scotlands humidity and large temp changes condensation inside steel tanks always meant water in the fuel tank. Pour in half a pint of ethanol, rock the car to mix, maybe some Toluene, or Xylene (octane level about 115 or so) . Heat the plugs with a blow lamp, some easy start/ether, Vroom, Vroom.
“Petrol’s petrol son, just needs a wee jag”

If you stick the old stuff in cans you can add it over time.
The dregs, well, it’s quite good for killing weeds in driveways. 😂. Not tarmac though, it stains and dissolves it.
 
did a bit more plating .... it's primarily a four step process and I'm happy to do a tutorial if anyone needs one..

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so this little lot are some more heat shield fasteners, the petrol tank bolt and washer, and the Spare Wheel carrier pivot bolt and nut.

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Then I got an early Christmas present from AutoDoc. Two inner tie Rods, Two Control arm Lollipops. Two Control Arms, Two Rear Shocks...…. and a Partridge in a Pear Treeeeeeeeee..🎄🎄

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And on that note,

I want to wish you all a VERY HAPPY CHRISTMAS !.. thank you for all your help this year. I CERTAINLY couldn't have got this far without you !! 🎄🎄🤶🎅🍸🍸
 
The zinc plating looks really cool :thumbsup:

I've used electrolysis before when I was restoring the rear subframe to get the rust off which was very effective but I haven't ever tried plating.

Great way to restore all the hardware without having to spend silly money on new nuts and bolts from BMW.

What is the cost out of interest for the material you need?
 
Faheem said:
The zinc plating looks really cool :thumbsup:

I've used electrolysis before when I was restoring the rear subframe to get the rust off which was very effective but I haven't ever tried plating.

Great way to restore all the hardware without having to spend silly money on new nuts and bolts from BMW.

What is the cost out of interest for the material you need?
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@Faheem .... I got my kit from Gateros .. basically went the whole hog for Zinc plating, Ultimate kit including the variable power supply which is SO much easier than using say a battery charger... it's about £190 but well well worth it... https://www.gaterosplating.co.uk/product-page/zinc-plating-kit
 
Not much going on today..... did some more plating yesterday but I think you get the idea now =))

I did zinc the disc back plate bolts (which were a little bit fiddly) just to see the contrast against the black plate...and they came up ok

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I also cleaned up the VERY grubby heat shields...…. just sprayed on alloy wheel cleaner and let it do it's thing (turning purple), then got in there with a stiff brush using jabbing and rotary actions.... then hosed off with the Garden hose....

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This is the number in case anyone needs it...

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Same with the other two...….quite surprised to see rust., and some of the fixing holes had actually rusted through. I'm no metallurgist, but that's clearly not aluminium !

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and the last one...

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well today ha!... was supposed to be the simple job of building up the calipers.... until I hit my faux pas.

First job was out with the old and in with the new,,,,,

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I then cleaned out the piston cylinder walls with my flexible drill attachment and pipe brush.... also great as an enema ! =))

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net result, lovely smooth bores...

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I did have designs on zincing the pad springs, but as they are classed as "consumables" then maybe not.... came up well with the Dremel and brass wheel mind you !

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Got myself all together and greased up the piston and boots.... confidently started winding it in before I realised the the boot clips on the INSIDE...as Z3 Calipers are different to E30 ones (that clip on the outside) I had completely missed that Z3 calipers don't have a shoulder for a snap ring.

And now my Faux Pas.... I can't get it back out... felt uncomfortable trying to feed the lip in with a screwdriver, so I need to get a foot pump as mine is buried somewhere and like @Mazza fashion a hose that will clip onto the pump to pump it out.

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Now, assuming I do get the piston out, how the hell are you supposed to get the boot clipped to the inside ? I guess you push it it halfway down the piston so that the bottom is free and you can feed it into the groove ?
 
Matt Barnes said:
well today ha!... was supposed to be the simple job of building up the calipers.... until I hit my faux pas.

First job was out with the old and in with the new,,,,,

View attachment 326335View attachment 326337

I then cleaned out the piston cylinder walls with my flexible drill attachment and pipe brush.... also great as an enema ! =))

View attachment 326345

net result, lovely smooth bores...

View attachment 326339

I did have designs on zincing the pad springs, but as they are classed as "consumables" then maybe not.... came up well with the Dremel and brass wheel mind you !

View attachment 326341

Got myself all together and greased up the piston and boots.... confidently started winding it in before I realised the the boot clips on the INSIDE...as Z3 Calipers are different to E30 ones (that clip on the outside) I had completely missed that Z3 calipers don't have a shoulder for a snap ring.

And now my Faux Pas.... I can't get it back out... felt uncomfortable trying to feed the lip in with a screwdriver, so I need to get a foot pump as mine is buried somewhere and like @Mazza fashion a hose that will clip onto the pump to pump it out.

View attachment 326343

Now, assuming I do get the piston out, how the hell are you supposed to get the boot clipped to the inside ? I guess you push it it halfway down the piston so that the bottom is free and you can feed it into the groove ?
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I remember seeing a video on it ..let me see if I can find it ..think you needed at least 3 hands
 
AntStark said:
I remember seeing a video on it ..let me see if I can find it ..think you needed at least 3 hands
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Cheers mate.... I've seen Malc's vid ... but I need to find my pump before I can make up an adaptor hose 😆

but I still don't see how you clip the boot in without fitting that first and then trying to install the piston afterwards
 
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Lubticate the seal well with clean brake fluid.

Tony.
 
Like this! When it comes to fitting the slider sleeves, I fit the other end first. I find it easier.

Tony.
 
t-tony said:
Like this! When it comes to fitting the slider sleeves, I fit the other end first. I find it easier.

Tony.
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thank you @AntStark and @t-tony .. that's perfect...I might just be able to wedge the lip in with a plastic trim tool with the one that's already got the piston in...but I'll try and fashion a way to pop it out with a foot pump and try again..thanks guys!
 
I'm enjoying your thread and loving your attention to detail Matt, especially with the pad springs;) :thumbsup:
 
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