What you may find is that although its out it doesn't work .Do you have any different codes now or are you clear ?
ABS/ASC
- Thread starter littlefeller
- Start date
will check in the morning, left my inpa laptop at work
ah no wait, i still have it on my other laptop, will go and check
I found it dropped the pump and error codes for the electro magnetic interferrance i had but gave a brake light switch fault.
In inpa the pump test ran fine but the brake light/switch test won't light the light even though it functions.swapped module back and it does so although light out now for 3 months never had the traction control cut in even when spinning the wheels to activate.
I presume this because of a coding issue although no lights present.
In inpa the pump test ran fine but the brake light/switch test won't light the light even though it functions.swapped module back and it does so although light out now for 3 months never had the traction control cut in even when spinning the wheels to activate.
I presume this because of a coding issue although no lights present.
ummm, i may have the same, i cleared codes (the pump wire harness code strangly was not in the list anymore just wheel sensor errors which were not there before, cleared all these, drove around the block - no codes lights still out, tried the self test, works as it should but every time i go into the abs/asc module on inpa the lights come on again, then go out as soon as i exit.
ok i will have a look at the coding and compare to the codes stored in the dme.
ok i will have a look at the coding and compare to the codes stored in the dme.
Yeah thats correct as inpa talks to the module mine did that it was just when i plugged in my code reader it cleared all errors but they come striaght back but as said no lights .
Does come on at ignigion etc and go out ASC switch operates correctly ie lights and extinguishes the light it just doesn't appear to work.
Saying that my new tyres have never twitched so may be its just not happened.
I imagine the abs is ok but not the asc.
Does come on at ignigion etc and go out ASC switch operates correctly ie lights and extinguishes the light it just doesn't appear to work.
Saying that my new tyres have never twitched so may be its just not happened.
I imagine the abs is ok but not the asc.
to be honest i dont think i have ever seen my asc lights come on (activate) to me asc in a 1.9 is a bit optimistic. no codes are showing now, will soon know if the abs is working as that comes on quite often, driving over bumps while on the brakes are on usually triggers it.
the abs working but not the asc is quite common on a module replacement, yes this would be just a coding issue.
The lights out which was the aim i may have a crack at the old module or get it repaired.
Struggling to find anyone local that will code it and not going bm for sure !
Struggling to find anyone local that will code it and not going bm for sure !
i had a abs pump wire harness fault, but now you mention it mine started as an electromagnetic interference error, mine must have gotten worse. the back of the module there is a couple of rows of electromagnets, think i will cut mine open and test it, see if i can make a good spare.
do you have the expert part of the software?
Sounds like a plan its a sealed lid so is a cut off job
i think both of our modules have the same issue, one thing i did notice was right at the beginning of the lights coming on is they would only come on after a long drive (more than 100 miles) then it got shorter and shorter until it got to the point of bumps setting it off, im now wondering if the constant heating then cooling of the circuit board is causing solder joints to crack, this was a common problem with low lead solder on computers.
It is the fault it is usually just soldering .Mine first came on over some loose block paving and funnily probably coincidence but on long right hand bends. It only ever mentioned passenger front densor but replacement fixed nothing it just became more frequent.
I think the pump feed on the stalk fails as the solder joints move on uneven road it was the trigger.
I think the pump feed on the stalk fails as the solder joints move on uneven road it was the trigger.
yes i have read this somewhere, but around the late 90s there was some EU legislation about lowering lead in solder (around the time of the z3) all was fine for around 6 years, then suddenly computers built in Europe started failing, it was largly ignored untill the xbox started having the same issues, turned out to be caused by the circuit boards warming up and cooling (slightly warping) this was cracking the less flexible solder. the obvious first failing point would be the power feed stalk, but im wondering if the power to the electromagnets is failing.
only one way to find out, im opening mine as my secondhand one is a ticking time bomb, at some point it will suffer the same fate. i will have a go at coding the new one too.
Still confused by this, but I looked at my Brake module/pump it has ASC on it, there are others with DSC or some with ABS, my conclusion is I dont have the facility I am looking for.ah I see, the second light is not the abs light, that is used for low brake fluid and break pad wear sensors. thanks for sharing this though
so you don't get the exclamation mark kind of light?
I tried in mine but mine doesn't either, but then my module is knackered.
brake pad wear sensors is something that could be toggled on or off via coding (assuming they are fitted to start with).
there is a load more functions you can go through by switching your ignition on with your trip counter pressed.
I have the same problem, what we need is someone to do a step by step re-solder though I did fix our Xbox by taking out the motherboard and placing it in a oven for 10mins and its still working 
but not sure I'd do that this time......
but not sure I'd do that this time......
old one opened - as you can see @Antm72 appears to be correct in his reasoning, the only obvious potential problem is the motor feed stalk, didnt bother testing any other part as the damage was clear to see (area in red circle) , it looks as though the stalk has been moving about, i took some close ups.
now re-soldered, will plug it back in later today and test it. not sure how long the solder will last, if you look closely at how the original solder has failed you will see that it should have failed long ago but didn't, this would suggest it is soldered on both sides of the board with the rear solder failing prob ages ago, suppose being the furthest point it will move the most (but i have used lead solder which may last longer).
i am leaving the replacement module in place and have a go at coding it, will be using NSC expert to code this and post results/how to on this thread.
i am leaving the replacement module in place and have a go at coding it, will be using NSC expert to code this and post results/how to on this thread.
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