ABS/ASC

[oldcarman]

Haven't a clue what you two are on about but figure the end result is going to help a lot of people on here so well done!! Carry on!! JIM

 

[funthrulens]

Hey guys, quite an old topic but I used your ideas and my Abs/Asc is working again, you saved me a lot of money! thanks

 

[littlefeller]

Yay

 

[funthrulens]

For future generations. Only this part can be cut and a few of solder can be applied for these two contacts. Don't solder out of the circle!

 

[littlefeller]

Good pic, really glad it has fixed it, wouldn' want anyone saying hey littlefeller broke my asc it' s abit of a crap design and will always fail at some point, ultimatly there needs to be a flexible link.

 

[McSwerve]

My light is also lit, so this is great info!
Presumably if the resoldering of the original module works you don’t need to go go through the coding process?

 

[funthrulens]

My light is also lit, so this is great info!
Presumably if the resoldering of the original module works you don’t need to go go through the coding process?

yes, precisely

 

[littlefeller]

My light is also lit, so this is great info!
Presumably if the resoldering of the original module works you don’t need to go go through the coding process?

you will only need to re-code another module if you use one.

 

[TMC Motorsport]

Holy thread resurrection Batman!

So we took on a 3.0l with a replacement DSC unit fitted as a bit of a project.
I dug away at the internet and found this thread, which has been brilliant, except it doesnt seem to solve the problem this time around!

I've been through the coding process in NCS Expert and it seems to work, but the lights stay lit and INPA is showing errors, although they are in German so I havent worked them all out yet.

My question is this... Does the MK60 unit need a different process?
Could there be other causes (yaw sensor, lateral acceleration sensor, steering sensor etc) that are causing the lights on the dash?

Any help gratefully received!

 

[NZ00Z3]

NCSExpert uses the same coding process for the MK60.

Yaw and lateral senors sit on the floor pan. If there are water leaks, the water migrates through the carpet, sponge and onto the sensors killing them.

 

[TMC Motorsport]

Thank you!

I think I've narrowed it to the lateral sensor and got one on order, so fingers crossed!

 

[Guydav]

now re-soldered, will plug it back in later today and test it. not sure how long the solder will last, if you look closely at how the original solder has failed you will see that it should have failed long ago but didn't, this would suggest it is soldered on both sides of the board with the rear solder failing prob ages ago, suppose being the furthest point it will move the most (but i have used lead solder which may last longer).
i am leaving the replacement module in place and have a go at coding it, will be using NSC expert to code this and post results/how to on this thread.

Thanks for this excellent post, I remove the controll unit from the pump in situ. Cut out a section of the cover and “Bingo” the both power to pump connections to the circuit board were defective as above. Soldered them resealed and refitted the Unit all fixed . Thank you for your post and clear photos.!!

 

[NickUK]

For future generations. Only this part can be cut and a few of solder can be applied for these two contacts. Don't solder out of the circle!

I just wanted to say thank you as well. After much frustration with code 71 and replacing a sensor, I followed the advice here. Within an hour; I had the module out, that little section of plastic cut off, the connections soldered, module glued back together and back in place. No ABS or ASC light on! Brilliant, thank you. It's really easy even if you only know basic soldering. I now have a brake pipe issue but will post separately about that!

 

[littlefeller]

I just wanted to say thank you as well. After much frustration with code 71 and replacing a sensor, I followed the advice here. Within an hour; I had the module out, that little section of plastic cut off, the connections soldered, module glued back together and back in place. No ABS or ASC light on! Brilliant, thank you. It's really easy even if you only know basic soldering. I now have a brake pipe issue but will post separately about that!

Glad this post is usefull

 

[littlefeller]

Thanks for this excellent post, I remove the controll unit from the pump in situ. Cut out a section of the cover and “Bingo” the both power to pump connections to the circuit board were defective as above. Soldered them resealed and refitted the Unit all fixed . Thank you for your post and clear photos.!!

Glad to have helped

 

[Oddly Godly]

Glad it fixed it I have the same code with an intermittent warning light. I will have to give it a go.

 

[NickUK]

Glad it fixed it I have the same code with an intermittent warning light. I will have to give it a go.

It's easy as long as you're careful with a soldering iron and watch yourself cutting the box open.

 

[ktnez99]

I've spotted this thread and have just ran a diagnostic using @GZed's kindly loaned Creator 30+ scanner. It's thrown up three codes: 76 Speed Sensor Signal Interfence - but no indication as to which speed sensor. 71 Pump Motor. 67 Brake Light Switch. If I'm reading everything that I'm finding on the internet correctly - and correct if I'm wrong - then the sensors can be the cause of the other lights - ASB and ASC - appearing on dash? Did have the brake light on too but that's disappeared. Any pointers and advice will be much appreciated.

 

[NZ00Z3]

Read this PDF on fixing the 71 pump motor code.

 

[ktnez99]

Read this PDF on fixing the 71 pump motor code.

Thanks...