All progress you’ll get there eventually and have a good record to look back on, lessons learnt rinse and repeat for the next job but satisfaction and accomplishment priceless until the other finds out how much you’ve truly spent
Not too worried on the total cost. Its getting worked at gradually so wont hurt as much, will save on mechanic fees tinkering away at it and im learning as i go. Day job is IT manager so anything to distract me from that is a bonus. For me its more of a 'i did that' once its all together and saved from the scrap yard for another good few years. Plus really curious how the handling is on one of these wagons restored to new.All progress you’ll get there eventually and have a good record to look back on, lessons learnt rinse and repeat for the next job but satisfaction and accomplishment priceless until the other finds out how much you’ve truly spent
Not yet anywayAnother not on scrap heap
Sorry reread what i said. Its on the trail arm but 100% shouldnt be there. Will know the extent better once all removed though.There shouldn't be any holes in them that I know of mate, although @Jjim did buy a black 2.2 last year where the MOT tester had obviously knocked a flat blade screwdriver through a rusty scab to fail the car.
Tony.
RE Break lines: Its not even corroded. the nuts are seized and damaged at the breakpipe connection. Tried a breakline spanner but wasn't enough to grip too, whoever done them prior used standard spanner and left them damaged for future persons problem (yey me!)Instead of replacing the whole line you could just replace the corroded section as it does look tricky not done myself but patience is a virtue they say whoever said it though needs crucifying.
With the exhaust can you angle grind/trimming the nuts off on the visible two? Or have room to use some heat and a impact wrench to do all three? Hope you can get them off without having to resort to fixing snapped studs. Why nuts and bolts couldn’t have been used in that are would have been easier to sort out.