For the sump thread, it's possible to get a kit that will retap the hole to take a larger sump plug. Just take care to grease the tap to catch the swarf and pour the old oil back through the engine to flush out any that you missed. Then fit the new plug with some ptfe tape or thread sealant, replace the oil filter and refill with new oil.
Z3 engine swap
- Thread starter JAMZILLA321
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- head gasket help oil swap
I don’t know what a swarf or tap is - by retap I assume you mean re-thread?
I’m so in over my head here 
Hi, yes a tap is for re threading usuall when going up a size you might need to re drill the hole for the next size up, picture of some taps https://amzn.eu/d/5PCSWpy
swarf is the excess metal that is cut away but as said probably cheaper just to buy a secondhand sump and learn not to over tighten stuff don’t worry most of us have done gaffs like this, I used to drive my old man nuts with stupid stuff I did as a kid, a learning experience.
swarf is the excess metal that is cut away but as said probably cheaper just to buy a secondhand sump and learn not to over tighten stuff don’t worry most of us have done gaffs like this, I used to drive my old man nuts with stupid stuff I did as a kid, a learning experience.
Thanks I will have a look
When my son was 15 he got a Mini for nothing, we thought we’d easily have it ready for his 17th. Until most of the floor ended up on the floor. Had to build a rotisserie to weld it all back together.I’m so in over my head here
Don’t always jump to the worst case scenario. It’s best to start with basics and work things through from there.
I doubt the gasket is gone, if it was the water level would be going down and there would be constant steam out the exhaust.
More important is the sump plug, you want to fix that first. If the threads are gone you don’t want it dropping out.
If it’s already dripping oil get some cat litter from Aldi or Lidl, the diatomaceous earth stuff, it’s super cheap and actually better than some of the commercial products.
First off though, tell us more about the car, what you want to do with it, what tools you have?
Thanks man how’s your sons mini now? I like minis they’re good in the corners - the z3 was a kind of gift from my dad, I remember him driving it about in my childhood but one day he picked me up from school and it was overheating so he parked it up in the drive and it stood there for 4+ years and I always thought the z3 was an amazing looking car so I asked him if I could have it and he said sure. The British weather hasn’t been kind to it over the 4 years though and it got vandalised so I also need to source a left wing mirror (they broke other things but the left wing mirror I can’t find on the internet) but just recently on Boxing Day I managed to get it running which was an amazing moment for me - now I want to have it as my first car so I’m trying to get it up to standard - another issue apart from the drain bolt (which isn’t leaking by the way it’s more than fingertight) and the possible head gasket is the rear right brake which is seized on real bad (no amount of hammering has worked and I tried to loosen the handbrake cable to no avail- I’ve decided I’ll chop the rear disc in half with an angle grinder) and the tools I have? I have basic tools and I’ve been buying stuff as I go along with money I get from my birthdays and Christmas 
Cutting the disk sounds pretty drastic, you'll end up damaging the hub as well id imagine. Usually rocking the car back and forth on the clutch is enough to get them to finally give. Even spray wd40 through the wheel nut holes (replace and clean brakes before driving haha)
Not sure how lucky you are but if you look in a the top side lug nut holes you might see the adjuster you can back off, which could help. But you'll need some luck for it to be lined up.
As a last resort after you try a bigger hammer. The shoes are just held to the backing plate with 2 little keywayed pins. If you nipped the heads of them off at the back of the backing plate, all the shoe gubbins would be floating.
If you damage the backing plate you would need to replace the rear wheel bearings to replace the backing plates (rubbish design) but if you just managed to nip the head of the pins, a brake redress kit is about a fiver. I've also used washer in the past when backing plates have been toast.
Adjuster is number 6
Pins I speak of is number 7
Not sure how lucky you are but if you look in a the top side lug nut holes you might see the adjuster you can back off, which could help. But you'll need some luck for it to be lined up.
As a last resort after you try a bigger hammer. The shoes are just held to the backing plate with 2 little keywayed pins. If you nipped the heads of them off at the back of the backing plate, all the shoe gubbins would be floating.
If you damage the backing plate you would need to replace the rear wheel bearings to replace the backing plates (rubbish design) but if you just managed to nip the head of the pins, a brake redress kit is about a fiver. I've also used washer in the past when backing plates have been toast.
Adjuster is number 6
Pins I speak of is number 7
Can’t rock the car back and forward as that brake causes the wheel to be stuck in place so I can’t move the car, and the adjuster seems to be just out of reach to turn it, I haven’t sprayed oil there since that seemed like a bad idea but I guess I can clean it up later with brake clean?
It sounds like you're going to need new disks and shoes anyway.
I know the wheel is stuck but working the car back and forth usually ends up making the handbrake shoes release.
Personally, I would Jack up the stuck wheel (or wheels in turn) and put a stand under the car. Remove the wheel and, using at least a 2lb hammer smack the corner of the disc/drum all the way round. It will release it, guaranteed.
Tony.
Tony.
I like this chap hahaI’ll read you guys’ advice in a bit I’m in class right now
When I tried to reverse the free wheel spun and that didn’t do anything - we got people to try rock it while reversing and still nothing
The hammer I used was a big rubber mallet because I heard it can damage the wheel bearing and I’m scared of damaging it but if you say it will work I can try
It will work, trying to shock something free using a rubber mallet defeats the object of using a shock. It WILL NOT harm the wheel bearing, whoever told you it would is an idiot.
Tony.
Tony.
Yes, use your ears. you can normally hear the difference, start with a solid tap, strangled hammer "held up by the head" and progress from there, 2lb club hammer imparts a lot of energy, you should not need to flog the hell out of it..Just break the sticktion.
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Re the stuck on discs - I take it you have removed the small collared retaining screw first?
No end of prizing / hammering or any other tips will get it off if that is still in place
Griff
No end of prizing / hammering or any other tips will get it off if that is still in place
Griff
Do not remove the screw until you manage the get the disc to turn or you will pull the shoes off the backplate. If there is no screw in place use one of the wheel bolts and a spacer of some sort to tighten the disc to the hub, for the same said reason.
Tony.
ps. I spent 50 years doing this job so I do have some experience working around these type of problems.
Tony.
ps. I spent 50 years doing this job so I do have some experience working around these type of problems.
Will try