Rebody Z3 Based Ferrari 250 California Build

[jaguartvr]

The brightness is very similar to driving at night whilst wearing Raybans. I could always duct tape a white stick to the front of the car.

 

[MisterP007]

The brightness is very similar to driving at night whilst wearing Raybans. I could always duct tape a white stick to the front of the car.

I will make a donation to "Guide Dogs for Replica Builders" straight away. Or, you could glass fibre a cat above each headlight and when you hear the loud "meeeeeooow!" you know you are about to hit something!

 

[IanA]

My P700's work pretty well, not a massive amount of lateral spread on the beam to illuminate the pavement/hedge etc. but straight ahead are fine on low beam. Main beam is good penetration down the road also.

I've just fitted a pair of Nightbreaker 200 bulbs to the P700 headlights on my Targa Florio Special. The bulbs I took out were not sitting "square" in the holder- they appeared to be tilted down a little. That may explain the previous dog's dinner beam pattern.
I'm looking forward to trying them out later but not frying any wildlife.

 

[MisterP007]

Let us know matey

 

[MisterP007]

@jaguartvr

Hey Steve CBS hazard wiring:

Z3 Blue/Green stripe to earth tag under the knurled nut. (I used Blue extension cable)
Z3 Brown to any of the 3 remaining connectors (I used Grey extension cable)
Z3 Brown with Blue stripe to any of the remaining connectors. (I used red extension cable)
Z3 Grey/Red stripe not used (Pink extension cable but not used)

Looks like Br/Bl is permanent 12v +
Gy/rd is illumination12v therefore not needed.
Br is earth/return to Flasher unit
Bl/gr is illumination return therefore needed for bulb in switch to work.


all working.

 

[jaguartvr]

Brilliant, that should sort me out.
Ian, My P700s had the same problem, the tang on the bulb was bent so the bulb was cocked. The light is so poor that I might look for alternative lights. I had fitted a pair to a 250 California and the light was very poor but I put it down to the perspex cover. My MOT tester said that perspex covers can play havoc with the beam settings. Let us know how yours perform.

 

[IanA]

OK- I'm very pleased with the output. Only got flashed once, wish I could say it was a Range Rover but no. I do have problems with the aim as the front was on a previous car that had coilovers. It points a bit high on mine. The front shocks are a bit soft so it's only a matter of time.
I don't think that the centre shroud on the P700 does the beam pattern any favours. I have "standard" light units on my Z300S and even with the perspex covers, the lights are fine. The bulbs fitted are nothing special either.

 

[jaguartvr]

{ have my hazards working, I had got them right but the hazard switch wasn't lighting up, add that to the fact that my dash has had to go back to Grassbanks again so I had no telltale lights in the car apart from the hazard switch.
Problem was a cheap and nasty hazard switch from CBS, you have to take the top off and press the bulb down with your finger to make it flash, the supplied spring isn't man enough so I have resorted to super glue to hold it in contact. I will be looking out for a better quality switch, pity as it was ideal.
Next job is the wiring switch, I will post a new thread grovelling to Gookah.

 

[jaguartvr]

HELP
Calling Gookah, grovel, grovel

I have in the past used the original light switch but it isn't really in keeping with the 60's look.
The ETB gauges dim so the switch is needed, the new Grassbank instruments are lit by led so don't dim, so I don't need the dimmer part of the switch.
I want to use a CBS toggle switch, off-on-on for off-side-headlights. The toggle switch has 3 terminals so what wire goes where? I have no idea and have no idea why the original switch has so many wires going to it. It is rated at 25amp, Sandy mentioned that it might not man enough for the task, went straight over my head!

 

[the Nefyn cat]

It is rated at 25amp, Sandy mentioned that it might not man enough for the task

Nothing a relay or two wouldn't sort, surely?

 

[jaguartvr]

You have to understand my skill set, why would I need to race with a baton!

Elecktrickery is not my forte

 

[the Nefyn cat]

All a relay does is act as a switch, using a small current from the switch to turn on a bigger current supplied from wherever you've got some nice fat wires. If I recall rightly the Z3 keeps its headlamp relays in the fusebox under the bonnet, and if I'm wrong someone will be here soon to say so.

 

[Pingu]

I made up a module. It is a complicated switch and although it is a 0,1,1+2 switch, there is a lot going on.

There are multiple circuits being switched off and on, each of which needs to be kept separate from each other (even though they are on or off at the same time). These circuits can be switched with relays and diodes can be used to prevent unexpected problems caused by reverse flow.

You will have some interesting things happening if you have the "side lights on with indicator when ignition is off" option and haven't accounted for it (see 6314 below)

Here are my wiring diagrams...

6300.0-00_01.pdf
6300.0-01_01.pdf
6300.0-02_01.pdf
6300.0-03_01.pdf
6312.0-00_01.pdf
6312.0-01_01.pdf
6313.0-01_01.pdf
6313.0-03_01.pdf
6314.0-00_01.pdf

If you have front foglights, you will need a third relay, as that is on yet another circuit.

 

[MisterP007]

Stick with the BMW switch Steve. I have recessed mine into the dash on the Cal and have it all hanging out on the SWB as below. I do not think it detracts too much from the 60's look either way.

 

[Pingu]

Stick with the BMW switch Steve.

You need to have a good understanding of electrics to change the BMW switch to a simple 0,1,1+2 switch.

 

[jaguartvr]

Back to the BMW light switch then. The last one I fitted on a block of wood behind the dash so only a little of the knob showed, just enough so you could get a grip on it.......as they say.

 

[MisterP007]

I have used a metal bracket bonded to the back of the dash for the light to fit.

 

[MisterP007]

Wiring heaven today, everything actually worked! (Thank god for multimeters).

Hazards working.
Electric Windows (switched by TR6 window winder on a rotary switch plus an intermediate toggle switch so driver can operate passenger window)
Roof switch wiring extended to a toggle switch.
Still trying to get the dash sorted correctly.

 

[jaguartvr]

Nice clearly labelled diagrams, they will be of great help to future builders.
I notice you are using 2 types of terminal connectors. The clear ones are very good when used with the correct crimping tool which you obviously have, The red ones are cheap and nasty and although they often seem as if they have a good grip, I have found that at a later date the wire can just pull out with almost no pressure.

 

[MisterP007]

I managed to find a way to double crimp them with the wire folded back over the sleeve. I wrap each one to act as strain relief. They are pretty tight.

I did think about soldering but it’s a pain.

Also, I had a long chat with Justin on Thursday eve, I will give you a buzz tomorrow with an update.