Rebody Z3 Based Ferrari 250 California Build

MisterP007

German-Italian-British Mix - What could go wrong?
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What I did on the 250SWB was make the handbrake section and rear part of the gearlever section only a few inches deep (just enough that the tunnel carpet is not visible with the seat in place (used MGF anniversary seats that time which were a very tight fit). I will try to keep the sides down to floor level in the 250 CAL but it may be easier to go with what I know worked before.

I am aware that if I raise the seats on the Z3 electrics that I will achieve more side space as the seat comes up (probably need to put a stop-bolt on the frame to prevent the seat from lowering too much and getting caught on the trim).

Here is what I did last time which will be the last resort after I try a higher seat position and narrower rear part of the console.

In Pic 1 You can just see the rear of the footwell side swoop up which allows the seat to slide forward and the same on the handbrake section to allow the seat belt stalk to clear.

In Pic 2 the cutaways are clearer still.

Pic 3 shows the frame getting shallower as it goes back and especially for @Pingu the joining brackets on the inside (not that they are visible mind you!)

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jaguartvr

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I think that works well. I would stay with the same side design as it solves the clearance issues but work with your new radio box as a separate part as you are doing, I think it will make it easier to fit.
 

MisterP007

German-Italian-British Mix - What could go wrong?
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As I needed to establish exactly what needs cut back on the centre console, I decided to bolt the seats in place fully and hook up the electrics.

With the seats forward a little and raised about 75% the clearance is better for the original Z3 plastic control section (may have to re-fit this higher up when the seats are trimmed as this will help clearance). However, the Seat Belt Pre-Tensioner tube snatches at the trim when the seat is moved forwards (gouges a nice groove in the ply to help mark where it needs cut back, which is helpful). I have marked up where it needs cut and will sort this out tonight (glad the console brackets are on the outside).

Not fancying removing the console I opted for cutting back the rear bulkhead, cutting speaker mounting holes and a slot for the seat belt to pass through. I need to work out the rear section now allowing for the Tonneau Cover fittings to work out correctly and the roof mechanism to clear fully (very tight). I still have the Z3 plastic trim from this area which is handy to measure clearance/fit etc.

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MisterP007

German-Italian-British Mix - What could go wrong?
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A bit more work on the rear bulkhead last night, looks like a bit of boat-building!

Needs a lot of fiddling to make sure the roof mechanism does not foul the bulkhead. All good now. I just need to sort the top out, fit the Tonneau fixings and check the fit. Also need to think through the fixings to the car (avoiding the petrol tank). After that, I have no more excuses left and will have to narrow the centre console handbrake section and reduce the drop to clear the seatbelt pre-tensioner. PITA!

Speakers arrived today also, so they can be test fitted later.

Should be able to get onto trimming some of this over the weekend.

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jaguartvr

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Looking good, these will work for your seat belt trims
You may need to make the holes a bit smaller for them to work. I had a batch of these made but they worked out far more expensive than the ones on eBay.
There is a small lip behind the old bulkhead in the well where the roof sits when folded. I used this as a mounting point to avoid putting screws in the petrol tank.
 

MisterP007

German-Italian-British Mix - What could go wrong?
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Looking good, these will work for your seat belt trims
You may need to make the holes a bit smaller for them to work. I had a batch of these made but they worked out far more expensive than the ones on eBay.
There is a small lip behind the old bulkhead in the well where the roof sits when folded. I used this as a mounting point to avoid putting screws in the petrol tank.
Cheers Steve

I noticed the tiny raised lip behind the old bulkhead and thought a nice short screw would fit in there well.

Just ordered a pair of the seat belt guides s you suggested.
 

MisterP007

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All of the internal panel work, consoles etc. all sorted out. They are now ripped back out of the car and foam padding is being glued onto the wood ready for leather. Ran out of spray glue yesterday so progress halted until the new delivery arrives.

The sides of the rear bulkhead needed to be thin gauge aluminium with no padding to clear the roof mechanism.

Test fitted the tonneau cover (not the easiest thing to fit when it is 4 degrees!)

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MisterP007

German-Italian-British Mix - What could go wrong?
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MisterP007

German-Italian-British Mix - What could go wrong?
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Foam party in the workshop last night (I wish, I used to love the foam parties in Mallorca especially the outdoor ones). The wrong kind of foam, unfortunately! I actually started the leather upholstery on the centre console.

I am not sure if the leather is sitting as well as I would like on the foam (bit lumpy), so I may have to buy a thin overlayer to smooth things out before doing any more.

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MisterP007

German-Italian-British Mix - What could go wrong?
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A couple of questions for our resident electrical wizards @gookah @Pingu and anyone else who cares to chip in.

The interior illumination circuit (cigarette lighter bulb, heater control bulbs, elec window switch bulbs etc.) is not working. Gave up the ghost at exactly the same time as the heater fan control stopped working on any setting. Very strange:

So far I have:

  • Buzzed all fuses under the bonnet with my multimeter on sound setting - all "beep" nicely
  • Checked grey/red illumination wires for any voltage in as many places a possible - nothing
What I have not checked but suspect:

  • The dreaded headlight switch/rheostat - anyone know which pins are for illumination? I can get at the switch with a bit of panel removal (knee panel).
  • Relays (for the heater fan control)
  • Heater fan
What beats me is why the heater fan control switch died at the same moment?

Any help is greatly appreciated. I have my trusty multimeter and also an LED indicator with tails I use as a test bulb (sometimes more revealing than the multimeter).

Anyone?
 

Pingu

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The illumination comes from the dimmer on the light switch (GREY / RED wire). I suspect the switch. Test pins 5 & 6 for continuity with the switch set to sidelights.

The heater blower circuit is more complicated and the cause could be one of many things...
  • Heater blower relay
  • Blower switch
  • Blower ballast resistor
  • Blower motor
  • Fuse 20
  • Loose / broken feed wires
  • Loose / broken earth connection on blower motor.
If it works on speed 4 only, it is the ballast resistor.
 

jaguartvr

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When covering interior panels I have always used 3mm foam scrim. It's just 3mm thick foam that you glue on (trim fix spray adhesive), it isn't lumpy like the stuff that you have used and you can always glue on another layer if you want an area with more padding.

Do the Grassbanks instruments still illuminate? From your description, it sounds as if it is the lighting circuit at fault apart from the fact your blower motor isn't working.

To anyone who is contemplating s build, just remember that fitting the body is a piece of p*ss, it's just stickin n gluen, however the electrics will soon have you tearing your hair out!

My Grassbank instruments have just been delivered so I will probably be as bald as a coot by tomorrow. This car is my son's who is working up in Scotland but is back for Xmas on Saturday so I will be rushing to get them fitted and working by tomorrow evening, just like one of those cheesy Sky car programmes.
 

MisterP007

German-Italian-British Mix - What could go wrong?
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The illumination comes from the dimmer on the light switch (GREY / RED wire). I suspect the switch. Test pins 5 & 6 for continuity with the switch set to sidelights.

The heater blower circuit is more complicated and the cause could be one of many things...
  • Heater blower relay
  • Blower switch
  • Blower ballast resistor
  • Blower motor
  • Fuse 20
  • Loose / broken feed wires
  • Loose / broken earth connection on blower motor.
If it works on speed 4 only, it is the ballast resistor.
Thanks Pingu

I will check 5 & 5 on the switch for continuity as these switches are - searching for a technical term here - oh, I know - sh***!

On the blower, it is not the ballast resistor as nothing on any setting, tested fuse 20 but will test again. I am suspecting the switch so will test for voltage either side.

Fun and games matey!
 

MisterP007

German-Italian-British Mix - What could go wrong?
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When covering interior panels I have always used 3mm foam scrim. It's just 3mm thick foam that you glue on (trim fix spray adhesive), it isn't lumpy like the stuff that you have used and you can always glue on another layer if you want an area with more padding.

Do the Grassbanks instruments still illuminate? From your description, it sounds as if it is the lighting circuit at fault apart from the fact your blower motor isn't working.

To anyone who is contemplating s build, just remember that fitting the body is a piece of p*ss, it's just stickin n gluen, however the electrics will soon have you tearing your hair out!

My Grassbank instruments have just been delivered so I will probably be as bald as a coot by tomorrow. This car is my son's who is working up in Scotland but is back for Xmas on Saturday so I will be rushing to get them fitted and working by tomorrow evening, just like one of those cheesy Sky car programmes.
Funnily enough, just ordered some 5mm foam scrim to lay over the top of the "lumpy stuff" which is carpet underlay I had lying about. It is great for building up the bulk but needs the scrim over the top to smooth it out.

Instruments still light up OK, weird!

Have fun with yours, I hope they are OK now after all the pain with Grassbank and the time taken.
 

jaguartvr

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Grassbank have been good and supplied a longer loom, I have just plugged it all together and plugged it in and it all seems to work. A few changes have been made to the loom, there is now only one wire to be soldered to the loom which will make it easier to fit. I did know there would be some teething problems
I intend to wire it to my tribute, just one wire to solder and I will leave the instruments fitted to the show card in the box so that I can run it around the block to check everything is ok.
Need to repair the corner of my dash as it has broken with the constant removing and refitting, it is tight.
 
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MisterP007

German-Italian-British Mix - What could go wrong?
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Only Saturday on the car this weekend (Christmas festivities getting in the way).

Carried on with the interior, some of which looks good but one bit (the top panel surrounding the gearlever) is lumpy and needs to come off and be re-done, I may add some stitching whilst it is off to make it look better.

The ASC, cigarette socket and heater controls are being hidden behind a 60's style speaker grill which I will have to make as I cannot find one the right size.


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MisterP007

German-Italian-British Mix - What could go wrong?
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Not happy with the leatherwork (more accurately the padding behind it) so spent the whole weekend peeling the leather off and cutting the foam away from the ply panels (a serrated kitchen knife is great for this). Getting the glue/remnants of foam off the back of the leather takes forever. So long in fact, that I am considering using the red-hide that I have and re-doing the centre console with this.

I have now re-cut the foam from 6mm neoprene which is smooth and quite dense. I have to decide now whether to spend 10-12 hours cleaning the glue from the back of the black leather and re-using or, use red (I have to cut the door cards from the red leather and then check the patterns to see if I have enough left over to use it (may leave the radio box section in black and will definitely be leaving the rear bulkhead black).

What a PITA
 

MisterP007

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MisterP007

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Back in the workshop yesterday. All of a sudden the centre console is now Red and smooth thanks to 6mm neoprene foam.

Got some sewing to do now for the top and the handbrake section.



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MisterP007

German-Italian-British Mix - What could go wrong?
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Finally got around to finishing off the leather on the centre console this weekend.

Not particularly pleased with the obvious level change on the top of the gearlever section but I think I can make this into a grooved feature.

I still have the door cards and door cappings to do but the panels are not yet made for these.

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