Rebody Z3 Based Ferrari 250 California Build

MisterP007

German-Italian-British Mix - What could go wrong?
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In your book of wiring, do you have any details of the wiring to the spot/fog light switches?
I don't have any spot or fog lights fitted and the interior switches seem to have vanished so I'm not even sure what colours the wires should be.
One of the problems with having a break from a build.
Got it somewhere Steve, if I cannot find it I will take some pics tomorrow.
 

MisterP007

German-Italian-British Mix - What could go wrong?
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Continued with the interior last night but only had an hour available so not much done.

Mangaged to measure, cut and fit the sides of the centre console (Ignore the bent ally brackets they are temporary until my Amazon delivery of steel angles (fitted underneath) arrives.

Not very exciting but plodding on.

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MisterP007

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Brrrrrr......... thought about going down to the workshop for an hour and a half, nipped outside to get something and changed my mind, it's blood freezing!!!!
 

MisterP007

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Afternoon viewers!

Anyone have any ideas on how to fix the bottom of the centre console side panels to the carpet (do not want to go right through to the bodywork)?

Side panel

This is where i need to fix (after leather and foam added, so i can take off for future maintenance).

InkedIMG_3523.jpg


Something Like this with Carpet Screw arrangement?

Trim Fix.jpg


I was wondering if there is some sort of carpet mat fixing that may work, any suggestions welcome.
 

jaguartvr

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Self-adhesive 50mm velcro?
When my front bulkhead panel is rammed in, it supports the main dash and with a couple of fixing screws (along the line where your hazard and toggle switches are), it is surprisingly secure.
The front centre console (gear lever section) is then placed in situ and then the rear handbrake section. I need to sort out a bracket for the rear section, being careful not to put a screw through the bodywork and into the petrol tank.

Looking at your centre console, will you be able to remove it in one go? I can see the handbrake section is separate but I think you will have to slide the front section back and lift the rear to get it out. The sides at the front may stop you from lifting it and the handbrake may catch. Nothing a No2 club hammer won't fix. Getting the original BMW centre console out is a pain, with the longer sides you could be in for trouble.
 

MisterP007

German-Italian-British Mix - What could go wrong?
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In your book of wiring, do you have any details of the wiring to the spot/fog light switches?
I don't have any spot or fog lights fitted and the interior switches seem to have vanished so I'm not even sure what colours the wires should be.
One of the problems with having a break from a build.
Did not go to the workshop last night, too bloody cold! I won't be there tonight either.

This is how I remember the wiring:

Fog wiring.jpg
 

MisterP007

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Self-adhesive 50mm velcro?
When my front bulkhead panel is rammed in, it supports the main dash and with a couple of fixing screws (along the line where your hazard and toggle switches are), it is surprisingly secure.
The front centre console (gear lever section) is then placed in situ and then the rear handbrake section. I need to sort out a bracket for the rear section, being careful not to put a screw through the bodywork and into the petrol tank.

Looking at your centre console, will you be able to remove it in one go? I can see the handbrake section is separate but I think you will have to slide the front section back and lift the rear to get it out. The sides at the front may stop you from lifting it and the handbrake may catch. Nothing a No2 club hammer won't fix. Getting the original BMW centre console out is a pain, with the longer sides you could be in for trouble.
I used velcro (but only 20mm) on the 250SWB panels, does hold but not on carpet, 50mm may do the trick though!

The console comes out in three sections:

  1. Radio box - tilts backwards out from under the dash with a little persuasion (the aluminium brackets on the sides are temporary to bend the ply in a bit. The actual fixings are angle brackets inside the radio box which are accessible when the top panel is removed).
  2. Handbrake Section - Lift the front and slide forward.
  3. Gear lever section including the long sides - then lifts up and back easily as the radio box is gone.
In true Haynes fashion, "installation is the reverse of removal!"
 

MisterP007

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I suspected there was something wrong with your telltale (as it should be earthed and not returned to the relay box). I looked at the BMW wiring diagrams and (with a fair degree of difficulty) drew this...


(for some strange reason, I can't upload to zroadster.org :wideyed: )
Hey @Pingu @jaguartvr

You are absolutely right, the tell-tale should go to earth. I pulled the knee panel out in my 250SWB to check and this is how it should be:

Fog wiring.jpg
 
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MisterP007

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Not much to report over the weekend (big family dinner on Sunday involving shopping on Saturday and cooking/eating/drinking on Sunday). Managed 2 hours on Saturday!

  1. Decided to change the front section of the centre console in the footwell as the long-version I have in the SWB is getting badly marked (mind you it is cream). So I cut the end piece down vertically from the front of the Radio Box, this will leave a carpet section where my and passengers' feet hit. Easier to clean and also will make the Radio Box/Front Section of the Console easier to trim.
  2. Made up the rear section of the centre console.
  3. Started on the vertical (ish) cover for the Seat Belt Turrets
All of these sections can now be trimmed separately which will make removal for maintenance easier not to mention less complex trimming. They will come out in five separate sections:

  1. Radio Box
  2. Front console/gear lever section
  3. Handbrake Section
  4. The small section behind the handbrake
  5. Rear turret cover (big piece)
I still have to work out what to do with the sections to the sides of the seats (where the roof lifting piston sits on the passenger side). These were covered by the long, shaped section of the Z3 plastic trim which covers the turrets, I want to sell these complete (as a roll hoop set) so do not want to cut them up to fit back in place.

I expect I will make a ply panel with carpet over, or maybe a black ABS trim?

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MisterP007

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Ordered some MGB seat covers today also (delivery mid-Jan).

  • Martrim New Matador Red Leather seat facings, same colour piping, matching vinyl sides and backs
  • Tuck and Roll vertical flutes
  • No headrest holes
  • Seat pad facing joins cut to an angle to match the Ferrari style in the pic below.
£385 delivered, not cheap but not too bad either ( A Martrim hide is £183 alone).

Also, the picture shows the style of the centre console I am after, mine will be black though (plus a radio box).

1962-ferrari-250-gt-swb-berlinetta-coachwork-by-scaglietti-design-by-pininfarina-auction-4.jpg
 

jaguartvr

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Looking good, thanks for the wiring diagram, as soon as it warms up I'll fit the switches.
Still waiting for my instruments to come back from Grassbanks which is very frustrating. Apparently, the new loom has been lengthened so the original BMW dash will sit up above the pedals, I'm not convinced that it will fit but will give it a go when they arrive.

With your interior "stickin n gluen", I use builders band for holding panels together temporarily, it is cheap and easily cut, you can also reuse it, not as strong as aluminium plates but so much quicker and better on curved surfaces.

Do you have a tonneau cover? They really do finish a car off when the roof is down. If so it will be worth planning your rear bulkhead so that it can still be used.

Is it Yvonne doing the seat covers? Martrim are very reasonable and offer a great service.
 

MisterP007

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Looking good, thanks for the wiring diagram, as soon as it warms up I'll fit the switches.
Still waiting for my instruments to come back from Grassbanks which is very frustrating. Apparently, the new loom has been lengthened so the original BMW dash will sit up above the pedals, I'm not convinced that it will fit but will give it a go when they arrive.

With your interior "stickin n gluen", I use builders band for holding panels together temporarily, it is cheap and easily cut, you can also reuse it, not as strong as aluminium plates but so much quicker and better on curved surfaces.

Do you have a tonneau cover? They really do finish a car off when the roof is down. If so it will be worth planning your rear bulkhead so that it can still be used.

Is it Yvonne doing the seat covers? Martrim are very reasonable and offer a great service.
Morning Steve

Hopefully, the instrument circuit board will fit above the pedals/to the right of the pedals and Justin has made the loom long enough (I still have not taken mine back out).

I have loads of builders band lying about but find the holes too big for the little screws I use, so I use the small galvanised steel brackets (the aluminium was because I ran out of brackets).

I do have a tonneau cover (it is Hearing Aid Beige and so will need to be swapped for a Black one ( @spurs fan in a coupe ) or dyed Black) and this is the next thing on my list to fit in place for exactly the reasons you mention above, it does finish off the car.

It is Yvonne making the seat covers using Martrim New Matador Red leather.

Should get down there tonight to do some more ply cutting!

Martrim.jpg
 

jaguartvr

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With the Martrim samples you should be able to get some vinyl dye to match, or might it be too much? Black will of course work well with the door tops and dash. we used red on the trim but went for black on the front bulkhead and kick panels thinking it would last longer.

Worth putting a couple of adverts up in the wanted/for sale section, swap beige tonneau for a black one?
 

MisterP007

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With the Martrim samples you should be able to get some vinyl dye to match, or might it be too much? Black will of course work well with the door tops and dash. we used red on the trim but went for black on the front bulkhead and kick panels thinking it would last longer.

Worth putting a couple of adverts up in the wanted/for sale section, swap beige tonneau for a black one?
I am only going Red on the seats, door cards (lower section) and the original Z3 Red carpet mats, the rest is black.

I will get around to a Swap Ad also
 

MisterP007

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2-hours cleaning up the mess in my workshop 2-HOURS!!!!!!!

Then 10 minutes chucking the seats in the car to test fit. Of course “Sod’s law” the centre console is too wide at the back so the seats catch grrrrr.....

All back out again this week to trim it down a bit and raise the seats to help clear everything.

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Pingu

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Check that you can get 3rd and especially 5th gear on the lever. Also check that you can fully release the handbrake (with the grip on). Both look like they will be tight and need some more space.

Just curious - Are you going to more the brackets to the inside? I'd use glued and pinned 10x10 baton or similar as I think they might show (or be felt) if you leave the where they are? You are the carpenter and have the experience of having done it before. I started making mine from aluminium, but abandoned it as a lost cause and just used a modified OEM centre console :wideyed: .

Looking good, though :thumbsup:
 

MisterP007

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Check that you can get 3rd and especially 5th gear on the lever. Also check that you can fully release the handbrake (with the grip on). Both look like they will be tight and need some more space.

Just curious - Are you going to more the brackets to the inside? I'd use glued and pinned 10x10 baton or similar as I think they might show (or be felt) if you leave the where they are? You are the carpenter and have the experience of having done it before. I started making mine from aluminium, but abandoned it as a lost cause and just used a modified OEM centre console :wideyed: .

Looking good, though :thumbsup:
Gear and handbrake operation are all fine with room to spare, but good thinking in any case.

The brackets will be moved to the inside and the joints glued with Tiger Seal once everything is spot on and ready for trimming. It is a lot faster to bracket from the outside whilst everything is in the "trial fit" period due to the fit, check, re-cut nature of these things. For example the fact that the ply currently goes down to floor level means the seats are now too tight a fit, so the ply needs to be stopped 4-5" short of floor level in the seat movement area, so out it has to come AGAIN!!!!
 

jaguartvr

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My centre console is in GRP and in 3 parts, being GRP it is only 2mm thick plus the vinyl. I don't fit scrim to the gear lever section at the sides to keep it as thin as possible, even then it is very tight due to the seatbelt on the inside of the seat. It is worth slipping a piece of ply between the seat belt release and the transmission tunnel to see how much room you have. This gap will remain constant no matter what seat you fit as the seat belt release stalk is mounted to the seat base. The good news is that once the seats are in position you should very rarely have to move them, if you do, raise them as high as possible as it gives you a bit more room, adjust the seat to the desired position and then lower it.
You will notice that the original BMW centre console just sits on top of the transmission tunnel. Anyone who has removed the centre console will know it is a pig of a job as it is in one piece and the gear lever and handbrake tend to trap it. Mine is in 3 pieces and is still tricky, you have to fit the front bulkhead and then the rear handbrake section pushing this section as far back as possible. The centre gear lever section is fitted and the rear section pushed forward to trap it all in position. Because the front two sections fit along the floor, the only fixing that is needed is at the rear of the handbrake section.

 
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