Yes. I do like the pepper pots. But they're only available as 15"Maybe a more 'full' look would be good for this type of body. I don't know what your tastes are, but something like this? View attachment 325577
You need to decide what look you want to end up with then find some wheels that will give you that look.Still trying to decide what wheels.
What do you reckon to BBS Mesh style (BMW Style 5 ish) with faux knock-on spinners (This is a mock up)
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I don't think I ever saw a real 507 with spokey style wheels.
The wire wheels with real spinners and hub adapters are 15". 65 profile tyres and a set of lowering springs and job's a good 'un.Yes. I do like the pepper pots. But they're only available as 15"
I haven't given up on something similar though
It's just easier this way. But I must confess that if/when I stop bodging about with the bonnet I may go back to the original idea and put the mesh in the grill.Hadn't even considered the mesh being fitted to the lower section....Nice idea.
Two short lengths of threaded rod. Drilled into the bottom of the trim piece and tapped. Nuts under the bonnet.How have you fixed the aluminium bonnet trim to the bonnet.
Quite a bit came off. First cut really was just a guess. Needed to get the roof on and clipped down so I could then run a pencil around the edge to mark the shape. Then lots of adding material back in to bridge the gap between the inner and outer skins of the roof.I've managed to get a hardtop that I plan to trim out to fit the rear tub like yours. Did you need to take much off.
That's a great help..many thanks.Chopping the Hardtop. ie what to chop off
I measured it in 4 places thinking this ought to be a good guide of where your first cut should be.
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4.
On a normal z3 this bottom front corner of the hardtop is maybe 3-4mm above the top edge of the door. I have my door skin off so you can see there's 2.5 - 3cm chopped off here
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Don't bother too much about getting it right on the first cut. The first cut is just so you can lower the roof on to the car - not bolted down. Just gently resting on the mounting points - and you'll see where your curves need to go.
The roof has a steel strip around the bottom holding the rubber. You need take that steel strip out. The roof is double skinned around where you're cutting. Just cut the outer skin and leave as much of the inner skin as you can so that you have a, kind of, step. Here's some more pictures showing what I mean by the step. You can use this step to set your rubber sealing strip into the corner of the step.
Be a while. Still body work to fiddle with.. . . .
When are you planning on getting it sprayed.
The curve on the underside sills are governed by the position of the structural Z3 sills. So there isn't much room for manouvre. Unless you re-design the whole body to stand off more from the top of the doors down, you can't get any more of a curve.Be a while. Still body work to fiddle with.
I'm not keen on the flat slab sided look of the body kit. Chris at tribute said that he started the 507 body using the mould for a ferarri-ish body kit. I assume that's where the almost vertical slab sides came from.
I wanna do something like this. See the way the bottom half of the body curves under.
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The 507 kit brings the bottom of the doors - and the sills - around 2 inches out. See the bottom of the door skin.The curve on the underside sills are governed by the position of the structural Z3 sills. So there isn't much room for manouvre. Unless you re-design the whole body to stand off more from the top of the doors down, you can't get any more of a curve.
If you look at my sills, they only have a small curve from the bottom of the doors and are hard against the structural sills. The two lumps in the sills where the jacking points sit are a problem aswell.
Edit: just looked again at the sills of the 507. It looks like the GRP sills sit completely 'over' the Z3 ones?