When I had my Mazda Eunos I used a generic remote locking kit sourced from eBay to operate boot opening and door locking.
Tony.
Tony.
Rebody Oh no. It's not another 507 Rebody. Oh yes it is!
- Thread starter Duncodin
- Start date
jaguartvr
Zorg Guru (I)
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2017
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- 95
Poppers are a bit different, when you operate the remote the door pops open, hence popper.
It releases the door catch and the door opens via a spring.
Cheap and nasty and will cause problems later on.
Do it properly and get a door handle that works properly.
It releases the door catch and the door opens via a spring.
Cheap and nasty and will cause problems later on.
Do it properly and get a door handle that works properly.
What problems will it cause? Just curiosity?
Tony.
Tony.
TVR used this system ? Button on bottom of door mirror.
Tony.
Tony.
Most of the kits come with a switch as well as the remote, there's some cheap and nasty ones or there's some that look to be better quality.
My situation is that I wanted to position the handle on the door exactly where I think it looks best and then figure out how to make it work later.
That's where I am now.
One idea is to place a electric push button under the skin directly below the exterior chrome handle The button closes a circuit that would trigger an actuator to pull the latch allowing the door to be pulled open. So is basically a 'popper' except the electric button is inside the door.
Another idea would be all mechanical using a lever to connect the button to the door latch.
Also in any case would be a backup to open the door in the event of failure.
That's where I am now.
One idea is to place a electric push button under the skin directly below the exterior chrome handle The button closes a circuit that would trigger an actuator to pull the latch allowing the door to be pulled open. So is basically a 'popper' except the electric button is inside the door.
Another idea would be all mechanical using a lever to connect the button to the door latch.
Also in any case would be a backup to open the door in the event of failure.
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TVR only used other manufacturers parts anyway so I'm not recommending TVR as such, just the way of doing it. Credit goes to Ford, Vauxhall, British Leyland or whomever designed it first.
Tony.
Tony.
Oo, that could work, use the button to activate a solenoid to release the current mechanism, that might be easier than trying to sort out a mechanical linkage. The handle then is just something to hold on to and isn't taking much pressure.
It also means you can install the exterior handle anywhere you want. Just be sure to have a mechanical backup.
Not sure about "solenoid" (magnetic coil type) as they don't seem to have the strength unless they're v big.
I think motor actuators do have the strength. The ones used in central locking systems as suggested by Tony. Before I go out and buy an actuator I'm looking at the one from the z3 boot lock. It's quite strong, original bmw and not too big/heavy. But it only has around 12mm of travel. It's also bi directional so doesn't have a return spring.
I need to experiment with different methods. I'll certainly post back here as I go.
Not sure about "solenoid" (magnetic coil type) as they don't seem to have the strength unless they're v big.
I think motor actuators do have the strength. The ones used in central locking systems as suggested by Tony. Before I go out and buy an actuator I'm looking at the one from the z3 boot lock. It's quite strong, original bmw and not too big/heavy. But it only has around 12mm of travel. It's also bi directional so doesn't have a return spring.
I need to experiment with different methods. I'll certainly post back here as I go.
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Boot lid actuator. Attached to bracket.
Mounted inside door just below the handle. Bolts through from the outside.
Difficult to know what that picture is but anyone doing a rebody will know what it is.
Actuator pulls on this lever.
The lever is where most builders put their strike plate. Mine has the same effect except mine is pulled not pushed.
The button on the new door handle pushes down on an electric button that powers the actuator. Pulls down on the lever to open the door.
It does work but the actuator occasionally struggles to pull against the return spring in the old handle. I removed the rerturn spring and it works better but now I don't trust that it will always return.
So. Electric pull does work but I think it needs at least a weak return spring to make sure it always returns to the start position.
Mounted inside door just below the handle. Bolts through from the outside.
Difficult to know what that picture is but anyone doing a rebody will know what it is.
Actuator pulls on this lever.
The lever is where most builders put their strike plate. Mine has the same effect except mine is pulled not pushed.
The button on the new door handle pushes down on an electric button that powers the actuator. Pulls down on the lever to open the door.
It does work but the actuator occasionally struggles to pull against the return spring in the old handle. I removed the rerturn spring and it works better but now I don't trust that it will always return.
So. Electric pull does work but I think it needs at least a weak return spring to make sure it always returns to the start position.
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But everyone else uses a mechanical system where their new handle pushes on a strike plate. My new handle is too low on the door which is why I went for the electric/actuator.
But, this afternoon, in a spare hour, I rigged up the strike plate and fitted a lever so my new handle pushes the lever which, in turn, pushes the strike plate.
That mechanical lever seems to work OK but more testing required with the new door skin bolted on.
But, this afternoon, in a spare hour, I rigged up the strike plate and fitted a lever so my new handle pushes the lever which, in turn, pushes the strike plate.
That mechanical lever seems to work OK but more testing required with the new door skin bolted on.
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Dxbolton
Zorg Guru (II)
Is there space for the actuator to pull directly on the lock mechanism lever?
Assuming you mean the lever that you can just see through this hole. That was my first plan.
That would've been perfect. But no. Made a big hole. Put in a small solenoid but solenoid didn't have the umph to pull it and not enough room once the skin was on. So didn't bother trying a bigger solenoid or actuator. Pity. I liked the idea.
I put a level in the same place as your strike plate and actuator pulls down on that. Was using a boot lock actuator but it only has about 12mm of travel and return spring in the lock only just pulled it back up again so didn't trust it. Deadlock waiting to happen.
So now I'm using this one
It's got about 15 - 16mm of travel, powerful enough to do the business and once the power is off it's easily pulled back up again. Inside the door same pulling down on this
Here's better pictures of the door actuator.
The lever bolted to the door handle. I made multiple holes so I could try connecting the rod in different places. To the bottom left of the hole is the handle return spring. That's been unhooked we don't want that extra resistance. There is a return spring in the door catch itself and that's enough to reliably pull the levers back to the home position.
Looking up inside the door at the actuator with the lever above it.
The lever bolted to the door handle. I made multiple holes so I could try connecting the rod in different places. To the bottom left of the hole is the handle return spring. That's been unhooked we don't want that extra resistance. There is a return spring in the door catch itself and that's enough to reliably pull the levers back to the home position.
Looking up inside the door at the actuator with the lever above it.
Below the handle you can see an outline in the gelcoat. That's where tribute originally suggested using Alfa handles but they didn't work right so left to us builders to figure out what handles to fit and where to fit them.
BTW the picture is an animated gif not a video.
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Actuator is THIS ONE don't use the brackets that are supplied. They're weak.
Inside the door behind the handle button/plunger is one of these (22mm metal)
The button triggers ONE OF THESE the fuse on the relay is 30 amp. Way to high. I'll leave that on the relay though and fit a 5 or 7.5amp inline fuse somewhere easy to get at
Power comes from the yellow permanent live behind the radio.
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Decided I wanted the door handle just a bit lower.
Just moved it about half an inch. I think that't it now. I like where it is. I'll do the driver's side the same next week.
In the meantime though I need mirrors. I was going to do trim stuff and mirrors last but reversing in and out of a tiny garage in unfamiliar car I really miss me passenger side mirror.
Round, rectangle, door or wing?
Rebodiers - please show me your mirrors.
Just moved it about half an inch. I think that't it now. I like where it is. I'll do the driver's side the same next week.
In the meantime though I need mirrors. I was going to do trim stuff and mirrors last but reversing in and out of a tiny garage in unfamiliar car I really miss me passenger side mirror.
Round, rectangle, door or wing?
Rebodiers - please show me your mirrors.
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