The 3rd slot (left side in this picture) is just the guide for the back plate to keep it lined up with the pins on the bulb
Rebody Oh no. It's not another 507 Rebody. Oh yes it is!
- Thread starter Duncodin
- Start date
Squeezed the back with pliers. Bulb sits OK now.
Still not liking that socket though. Looks cheap and nasty. I'll maybe take it out and replace with better one.
Still not liking that socket though. Looks cheap and nasty. I'll maybe take it out and replace with better one.
The thing is with a used lamp you have no idea what bulbs have been forced into that socket before. I refer to my initial comment in the last post. Send it back as not fit for use.
Tony.
Tony.
It's not old. It's brand new. That firm, Bastuck, manufacture the lights for the classic volvo community. Not cheap either.
That's why I tagged @Dxbolton in the hope that he's also using the same light and, hopefully, can tell mee whether his bulbs fit or needed some fiddling.
Well, obviously it doesn't look new (to me anyway) from the pictures. If that's new it's pi55 poor quality. Even more reason to return to sender?
Tony.
Dxbolton
Zorg Guru (II)
Sorry for the late reply,
I have a loose bulb too in one of my bulb sockets.
It’s also the same make as yours. I tried various bulbs I had available and they were not great. They are ok now but you’re correct, fitment is poor for an expensive part
I have a loose bulb too in one of my bulb sockets.
It’s also the same make as yours. I tried various bulbs I had available and they were not great. They are ok now but you’re correct, fitment is poor for an expensive part
Whacked mine with a pointy hammer I've managed to get a decent bulb fit. But I don't trust it.
The main chrome body of the light is really nice and solid. But the bulb holder is cheap tin which I suspect can be easily uncrimped from the body and replaced with a better quality bulb holder. There's lots of holders out there just need to find one that'll fit.
I've got lots of other things I want to do first but will come back to this and post up my solition
Thank you @Piran for posting the hinge pictures in your build thread.
I've decided to attach my boot lid to the grp rear body tub. Temporarily using angle bracket to figure out how (where) to attach the bootlid
Most of the work is to the boot lid. Starts off like this
Need chop the frame a bit but first I made a bracket with welded in captive bolts. Check it fits the hinge
Then change the shape of the frame on the underside of the lid and bond in the bracket with captive bolts.
Fit the lid to the hinge. See the label on the hinge. Mercedes A Class.
And hope it closes
It's a "very" tight fit. Tribute done a good job with that. Doesn't rub but I suspect it'll knock going over pot holes so I will take off a couple of mm all the way round.
I will revisit that angle bracket later and bond it under tub. But no hurry. Fiat 500 boot handle coming tomorrow. I'll do that and the lock/catch next
I've decided to attach my boot lid to the grp rear body tub. Temporarily using angle bracket to figure out how (where) to attach the bootlid
Most of the work is to the boot lid. Starts off like this
Need chop the frame a bit but first I made a bracket with welded in captive bolts. Check it fits the hinge
Then change the shape of the frame on the underside of the lid and bond in the bracket with captive bolts.
Fit the lid to the hinge. See the label on the hinge. Mercedes A Class.
And hope it closes
It's a "very" tight fit. Tribute done a good job with that. Doesn't rub but I suspect it'll knock going over pot holes so I will take off a couple of mm all the way round.
I will revisit that angle bracket later and bond it under tub. But no hurry. Fiat 500 boot handle coming tomorrow. I'll do that and the lock/catch next
Last edited:
How are you going to weatherseal the boot?
Are you proposing to fit gas struts, or a manual lid stay?
Are you proposing to fit gas struts, or a manual lid stay?
I ended up cutting the inside channel of the boot lid, fitted a couple of temporary brackets either side with a bolt and couple of nuts that when adjusted allowed me to change the angle of the curve to better suit the contour of the body. When I was happy with it, I fitted a couple of metal plates to keep the new angle in position and then removed the temporary bits.
From the look of the bottom of your boot lid, you have the same issue. Looks like the bottom of the boot lid is sitting on a ledge. Boot seal will push it out a bit...but will also push it out everywhere else.
Have to say that I'm really happy with how my boot lid sits now.
I've opted for external Triumph TR4 hinges with a VW Polo bonnet stay which is the perfect length and easily fits to the inside of the old zed rear plastic trim.
I like the idea of internal hinges and gas struts but was worried about flexing and the struts being too strong for the lightweight boot lid. Maybe drop back on it at a later date.
I'm hoping to get some primer on mine this weekend.
Yours is coming along nicely. Well done
Weather seal. Around the rim where the bootlid sits I'll use something like THIS TRIM but currently that won't work because my angle bracket it attached flush under the rim. When I change how that bracket is mounted I'll fit that trim. My biggest 'weather' worry though is the 3 inch gap between the top of the metal inner wing and the f/g tub. I want to use my car all year round so that needs sorting.
The bootlid is very light so doesn't need any gas strut assistance to lift it. I'm not planning on using a gas strut. I might use a ratchet on one hinge so the lid stays open with a release catch to close it. Back in the day that's how bootlids worked. The design of the A Class hinge means it almost stays up on its own so a weak spring on the hinge might be enough. Something for me to play with in future.
Presumably you know about 'woolies'? If not here is a link.
www.woolies-trim.co.uk
www.woolies-trim.co.uk
To be honest I was thinking more of the struts as a 'stop'. If you have the whole assembly fixed to that thin GRP flange with a couple of small screws, you would only need to over-open the boot beyond the hinge travel and you could easily crack the plastic IMO.
If not gas struts, maybe some sliding furniture stays? They would take some of the burden off the hinges and give another point of relief?
Only thinking out loud TBH, as I haven't even started mine yet!
The two tiny bolts into the grp rim are just temporary to hold the hinges while I measured where to fit the fixtures in the bootlid. The angle bracket gives me lots of adjustment while figuring it out. My plan is to make up a big triangle steel panel and bond it over a arge surface area in that corner on the underside of the body panel. It'll be well able to take some abuse.
But I'm still thinking of what to do about a support. No hurry.
Furniture stays. Yes. The support used in cupboards with upward opening doors is the same functionality as what some old cars used.
But I'm still thinking of what to do about a support. No hurry.
Furniture stays. Yes. The support used in cupboards with upward opening doors is the same functionality as what some old cars used.
Indeed! The pre-curser to gas/hydraulic struts.
The old Morris Minor has these front and rear? Plenty of them about and being re made.
Tony.
Tony.