Struts. Thanks guys. I'll look at some old cars and post back here when I find something
Rebody Oh no. It's not another 507 Rebody. Oh yes it is!
- Thread starter Duncodin
- Start date
I bought some off ebay similar to mgb ones but didn't lift the boot lid high enough for me so went down the bonnet stay route.
I've decided to prioritise jobs. I'm just going to set up a simple rod that I place manually. Just to hold it while I sort out the lock/catch. Then I want to move on to the door skins and door handles.
I'll come back round later in the year to revisit all these none mission critical nice-to-haves.
- Joined
- Dec 26, 2016
- Points
- 144
- Location
- Spaldingski, Lincs
- Model of Z
- 3 litre Z3 pretending to be Italian exotica. Two previous E89 Z4s.
A good plan, otherwise you can get bogged down in details before the main jobs are complete.
For me, the only problem is that I don't want to leave something until later, then find I can't get to it as other stuff is in the way or fixed.
There are so many 'jobs' to do, I worry also that I will forget stuff.
I'm going to respray it before I get it on the road so need to sort the contours out now now.
If it was a solid colour maybe it wouldn't be so critical as I could fettle the boot in a years time and respray it the same colour as the car.
I'm going artic silver (my original zed colour) which needs a 3rd drop coat before laquer so trying to get a match at a later date would be a nightmare
If it was a solid colour maybe it wouldn't be so critical as I could fettle the boot in a years time and respray it the same colour as the car.
I'm going artic silver (my original zed colour) which needs a 3rd drop coat before laquer so trying to get a match at a later date would be a nightmare
Boot lock. Chris at Tribute tells me that other builders use a VW lock/catch and fit the catch mechanism to the floor/rear wall of the boot with the striker above it in the lid.
Why is that?
I decided to ar least try to use the original Z3 latch and to put it in the bootlid same place as z3. The VW lock isn't expensive so I'm not just trying to avoid the cost. But i have the z3 lock so I feel that I should try to use it.
I'm sure I'll hit a problem and eventually fall back on the VW version. In the meantime though here's my z3 latch mechanism (still a bit wonky) in the bootlid.
I'm not planning on using the z3 key button. In place of the button I'll fit a solenoid to pull the lever on the latch when the button/switch on the boot handle is pressed.
Maybe one reason why others put the mechanism in the floor is that it's easy to rig up a failsafe method of opening the boot. I have thought of that and have a plan.
Why is that?
I decided to ar least try to use the original Z3 latch and to put it in the bootlid same place as z3. The VW lock isn't expensive so I'm not just trying to avoid the cost. But i have the z3 lock so I feel that I should try to use it.
I'm sure I'll hit a problem and eventually fall back on the VW version. In the meantime though here's my z3 latch mechanism (still a bit wonky) in the bootlid.
I'm not planning on using the z3 key button. In place of the button I'll fit a solenoid to pull the lever on the latch when the button/switch on the boot handle is pressed.
Maybe one reason why others put the mechanism in the floor is that it's easy to rig up a failsafe method of opening the boot. I have thought of that and have a plan.
Dxbolton
Zorg Guru (III)
The Vw latch was easy to fit and I like that I can open it from outside. It just appeared neat and tidy fit for installing.
Dxbolton
Zorg Guru (III)
Once the plastic arch liner is fitted nothing will spray up onto the boot area.
I drove in all weathers last year and had no issues. Hopefully you’ll find the same
I find it strange that all that spray under the back bumper doesn't get on top of the inner wings.
As a temporary solution I've just left the gas struts attached to the lid part of the hinges and then when I want the boot to stay open I just pop them on the other side
Carrying on with the boot lock I realize that the previous picture wasn't very clear. Here is the catch from a different angle
It's currently on long bolts so that I can play with the height. Once I'm happy with it'll I make a box section to hide it.
The static part, the strike plate or whatever its called, is being fixed to the floor via a custom bracket made from alu profilea.
Bolted to the floor of the boot extension.
This is the original z3 locking mechanism with the addition of the electric Fiat 500 handle/switch in place of the mechanical z3 key/button. Central locking, boot light and alarm should all still work. Touch wood.
It's currently on long bolts so that I can play with the height. Once I'm happy with it'll I make a box section to hide it.
The static part, the strike plate or whatever its called, is being fixed to the floor via a custom bracket made from alu profilea.
Bolted to the floor of the boot extension.
This is the original z3 locking mechanism with the addition of the electric Fiat 500 handle/switch in place of the mechanical z3 key/button. Central locking, boot light and alarm should all still work. Touch wood.
Flush fit. BMW 507 door handles
Fitting them, in the right place, will be fun.
Fitting them, in the right place, will be fun.
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Very nice touch. I originally looked down the Fiat Bachetta handle route but after much head scratching opted for the tried and tested plunger type handle. Some have used mgb and triumph....I opted for classic mini as I like the look and feel of it.
Originally MG handle was my first choice. Nice long plunger too.
and, to be honest, the MG handle is more comfortable to use.
MG = Grab the handle with your whole hand, press the button and pull the door open. Very comfortable
507= Nothing to grab. Press the button with a knuckle or thumb. Easier said than done because awkward hand position and needs quite a bit of pressure. Lever pops out just enough to get a couple of fingers behind to pull the door open. Lever is pointing forwards and, unless you push it back in, the lever stays stuck out so you can snag handbags off pedestrians if they're walking to close to the road.
So. Only my opinion. The 507 handle is a bad design. But it is good looking.
and, to be honest, the MG handle is more comfortable to use.
MG = Grab the handle with your whole hand, press the button and pull the door open. Very comfortable
507= Nothing to grab. Press the button with a knuckle or thumb. Easier said than done because awkward hand position and needs quite a bit of pressure. Lever pops out just enough to get a couple of fingers behind to pull the door open. Lever is pointing forwards and, unless you push it back in, the lever stays stuck out so you can snag handbags off pedestrians if they're walking to close to the road.
So. Only my opinion. The 507 handle is a bad design. But it is good looking.
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MG = function. 507 = form. I'm normally a function over form man, but in this case you look at it more than use it so might differ!! 
it's a tough choice, I like the sleek lines without the protruding handle but the recessed handles are a pain. I quite like the MG handles, I've got some fiat barchetta handles that I was going to try with or consider remote poppers and do without a handle altogether.
The one thing that would worry my with the 507 handles is that it will put the twisting force into the fibreglass when you pull it that you won't get with the MG ones
The one thing that would worry my with the 507 handles is that it will put the twisting force into the fibreglass when you pull it that you won't get with the MG ones
The plan is to fit the handles just an inch higher than the swage line. Same place as the 507. Easthetically that's where I want them.
I don't like the idea of any handle pulling on the GRP skin. I'm planning on attaching the handle to the grp skin but also a bracket to the metal so pulling is on the metal. For servicing that bracket can be unbolted from inside the door.
Or something like that.
jaguartvr
Zorg Guru (I)
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2017
- Points
- 95
The doorskins are pretty thick and you shouldn't have any problems, mine have been on for about 6 years and no problems.
Bear in mind that the pressure is only on the "push" of the door handle button, the actual door opening can be done with your little finger so I doubt if it will ever cause any problems. Obviously if you let the ham fisted wife have ago that could be an entirely different matter.
Bear in mind that the pressure is only on the "push" of the door handle button, the actual door opening can be done with your little finger so I doubt if it will ever cause any problems. Obviously if you let the ham fisted wife have ago that could be an entirely different matter.
Time to decide where to put the handles.
Cut a piece of sticky silver foil to roughly handle-size and stuck it to the door.
First one is, kinda, in line with the swage line. It is in line with the swage line but because the upper surface of the molding catches the light it makes the handle look as though it's slightly below the line
The original 507 has the handle just above the swage line so tried that next
Eventually though I decided on a smidgin higher and chopped a hole in the door
But now I'm not sure if it's maybe just a tad too high. Maybe that previous one was better after all (but the missus liked this one
I'm 6 foot and the 507 handle is, for me at least, a bit awkward if it's too low because of the flush lever which doesn't pop out till the button has been pressed.
In this picture you can see the mould outline where Tribute Automotive originally planned on having the Alfa handles which, in the end, didn't work.
Where it is now kinda works ok to operate. Press the button with the thumb then swing the two littles fingers over the lever. But the car is sitting very high on the suspension after being on the lift for nigh on 3 months. So. After all that. The handle may move a bit one day.
Cut a piece of sticky silver foil to roughly handle-size and stuck it to the door.
First one is, kinda, in line with the swage line. It is in line with the swage line but because the upper surface of the molding catches the light it makes the handle look as though it's slightly below the line
The original 507 has the handle just above the swage line so tried that next
Eventually though I decided on a smidgin higher and chopped a hole in the door
But now I'm not sure if it's maybe just a tad too high. Maybe that previous one was better after all (but the missus liked this one
I'm 6 foot and the 507 handle is, for me at least, a bit awkward if it's too low because of the flush lever which doesn't pop out till the button has been pressed.
In this picture you can see the mould outline where Tribute Automotive originally planned on having the Alfa handles which, in the end, didn't work.
Where it is now kinda works ok to operate. Press the button with the thumb then swing the two littles fingers over the lever. But the car is sitting very high on the suspension after being on the lift for nigh on 3 months. So. After all that. The handle may move a bit one day.
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Remote poppers? Tell me more? would there be a physical button on/near the door? or just remote operated solenoid/actuator?
What actuator would you use?