Sky ? I think might be wrong
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For Sale "M" STYLE GEARSHIFT SURROUND.
- Thread starter Southernboy
- Start date
I am wrong nothing this week end so might fit then
Did you put the nuts on the long screws ? or use the hole in the ledge as nut ?
Do you know what size drill bit you used to countersink, it all looks very small
Geoff
I used a countersinking bit Geoff and i used the nuts.
I found it easy to stick the nuts to sellotape i left the long screws high so i could screw them down into the nuts so it was quite easy as they are rather small to try and hold.
I found it easy to stick the nuts to sellotape i left the long screws high so i could screw them down into the nuts so it was quite easy as they are rather small to try and hold.
That was my thinking.
I have not started yet and not removed anything, I replaced the gaiter early this year so know hoe to open it up but what is the best way to mark the holes that have to be drilled or will the bottom surround plate go into position
I have not started yet and not removed anything, I replaced the gaiter early this year so know hoe to open it up but what is the best way to mark the holes that have to be drilled or will the bottom surround plate go into position
Screw the six screw through the frame so that they nearly reach the surface get the bottom plate centred, i found that getting the top and bottom marked/ drilled first was important as the frame sits mm from the window switches so the bottom hole is the critical one really to stop it fouling them.
I just screwed down and it marked the plastic enough to then drill the hole.
I just screwed down and it marked the plastic enough to then drill the hole.
Thanks. I knew it was important to get the holes right as Barry had said that it goes close to the window switches and was wondering what the best way was.
Will try if I get time this weekend to fit and put pic on as it should look good on the walnut
Will try if I get time this weekend to fit and put pic on as it should look good on the walnut
I can't wait to see this against the walnut @ Geoff Crispin! It will look so rich. I've scrapped mine in favour of a black chromed one by the Master @ Southernboy as it will match my ACS pedals and should be less glaring against my dark green interior. JIM
Can't wait to get mine, looking forward to adding it to this 
You are right to go with the chromed model @Sean d, I think the black chrome would have been lost against the blue of your interior and if I had the same I'd have switched too. I'm going for a less dramatic look with the brushed Al foot pedals so the black surround will fill that in perfectly and I feel add some class around the gaiter! Do love your piano black though, it's such a classic colour more people should use! JIM
Thanks Jim, I like the individuality of the piano, I've not seen one before and its not OTT, just a subtle improvement with a modern twist.
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- Apr 27, 2012
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Beautiful work Sean. I like the classy rich colours and as you say "subtle" effect. you may want to look out for a decent chrome ciggy lighter if you're keeping it, or a chrome usb connector..?? And the orange perspex surround could be replaced with a blue oune - easy enough to make if you have the time and inclination... There's clear blue perspex available, and the it polishes up well with Brasso... Just some thoughts given the rest of the work you've done. I have a couple of spare lighters here, I'll have a look at the perspex part...If it's do-able I'll make one for you and send it across with the gearshift trim.. Xmas gift..Let me know if you approve of blue...
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Thats very generous of you Barry and a great idea, blue would look great, I am planning on using the Motorwerks brushed cig plug that will match the gear knob and hand brake,
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- Apr 27, 2012
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OK....I'll dig around in my spares and have a look...
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Hi Sean - I've had no luck finding my spare, so I'm sorry - can't do anything without it. I was wanting to use it to cut the top bit off and have that remade in the blue perspex. Maybe I'll still find it. Having moved home a couple of months back, I likely have it "somewhere"...
No worries Barry, thanks for looking though.
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Getting back on subject though, another new development... I was going to fit 4 clips to hold the base in place so the top trim could be tightened down onto it, but the frame fits so well that I decided it's going to make more sense to simply glue it into the console hole. Also, the frame will come with a strip of 0.8mm thick foam tape on the inner surface to which the leather boot will stick.... that tape has a permanent sticky on the side that goes onto the frame, but a"removable" sticky surface on the side the boot will stick to... that means the leather boot can be removed at any time in future if required, and simply re-stuck into position again...
Hi Antm
At last started to fit, have counter sunk holes as you did but it is a very very tight fit and don't think that I will have to drill any holes just shorten the screws. With all screws in the bottom plate I have great difficulty fitting the boot on its plastic base, but when I get it down in position it is very very tight . Can you from your experience see any problems doing it this way.
Geoff
The plastic boot i presume you mean the existing plastic rim around the gaiter?
I have removed this as its not possible to fit it with it in place.
I have the boot fitted over the existing foam underneath , the boot on its original frame is larger than the hole left hense the friction fit afterwards.
I have removed this as its not possible to fit it with it in place.
I have the boot fitted over the existing foam underneath , the boot on its original frame is larger than the hole left hense the friction fit afterwards.
Hi Antm
That was quick.The plastic base is what the leather boot slides over which is not the same as yours in pic and I have no foam bit.
I have done a trial run with the long screws in but no holes drilled and I think that I will be able to get the plastic base to click into possition but will not know for sure until I get some shorter M2 screws from Boltbase as no shops down here have got any.
That was quick.The plastic base is what the leather boot slides over which is not the same as yours in pic and I have no foam bit.
I have done a trial run with the long screws in but no holes drilled and I think that I will be able to get the plastic base to click into possition but will not know for sure until I get some shorter M2 screws from Boltbase as no shops down here have got any.