When am I allowed to fit a race clutch and diff Dino 
Dino D's Z3 2.8 Custom build. '98 Montreal Blue
- Thread starter Dino D
- Start date
Post copied from my zedshed list to here to keep this date as well:
Soooo after many years and much part fitting and tweaking my Z actually had some proper track day time.
LYDDEN HILL
1 whole mile,
All turns right except for devils elbow
The steering is not straight for more than a few sec.
You are on the brakes in quick succession.
Surface designed to take 600bhp rally cross cars so eats tyres!
Perfect spot for my first proper track day.
Oh and I was in the ADVANCED group as novice and intermediate were all full. They said it basically empty so I’d be fine...
Awaiting briefing, looking moody:
Good thing I didn’t smooth the two eye cover
Half a BMW (running the 4.8 V8 from the 650i - gentle Sunday cruise it was not!)
So I sign on and find out that since I booked the day day before 10 other cars have joined so the Advanced group is now full and will have single seater, bike engined cars and RallyX cars joining in the fun. I was the only on road tyres!
Booked the instructor for the first session and went out nervous as anything.
The instructor was great - without him I’d never had braked and turned so late or used as much power (basically full throttle in 3rd after pilgrims and briefly catch 4 whisky still turning, would never have dared but he pushed me on, seriously surprised at with this old shed can do!
Cool down between sessions:
I don’t run a a viscous fan and this feat was hot and I had the aircon on...ahem...its sweaty work ok and you have to have your arms covered and all I had was a fleecy soft shell!!!
Running like that the gauge started moving past centre so aircon off and back off after 6 laps and she was fine. Will need to run an additional electric fan or refit viscous (but with new engine mounts to help it not kiss the radiator).
Tyres did well for the first 5 sessions - I could feel them go off and would back off to let them cool. I also avoided understeer in the main which preserved the front corner. I had the ASC on for the first 5 sessions and could feel it holding back a lot.
I also like how you gain more rubber than you lose!
Ok the final session I switched of ASC and played a bit but the track was very hot - brakes were worn down so as a result I was tipping into the corners harder than the tyres liked so the front left corner took a beating as you can see above - gained some blobs to make up for the loss of writing on the sidewall though!
Single seater that spewed oil out all the time!
Managed to pass the Clio every session - quite please to pass something although I suspect he was new to it.
These old Fords are quick round here!
E30 325i stripped and on slicks - we evenly matched on power but on brakes and in the corners he’d just dive in the inside line (overtake ANYWHERE at Lydden provided its ‘safe’)
@spurs fan in a coupe throwing the Z in the bends.
These RallyX cars were so quick and distracting- they blast past without you knowing and then proceed to pull the handbrake at what must be 100mph, watch them too long and you lose your line and head for the grass!
#133Yesterday at 11:24 PM
Soooo after many years and much part fitting and tweaking my Z actually had some proper track day time.
LYDDEN HILL
1 whole mile,
All turns right except for devils elbow
The steering is not straight for more than a few sec.
You are on the brakes in quick succession.
Surface designed to take 600bhp rally cross cars so eats tyres!
Perfect spot for my first proper track day.
Oh and I was in the ADVANCED group as novice and intermediate were all full. They said it basically empty so I’d be fine...
Awaiting briefing, looking moody:
Good thing I didn’t smooth the two eye cover
Half a BMW (running the 4.8 V8 from the 650i - gentle Sunday cruise it was not!)
So I sign on and find out that since I booked the day day before 10 other cars have joined so the Advanced group is now full and will have single seater, bike engined cars and RallyX cars joining in the fun. I was the only on road tyres!
Booked the instructor for the first session and went out nervous as anything.
The instructor was great - without him I’d never had braked and turned so late or used as much power (basically full throttle in 3rd after pilgrims and briefly catch 4 whisky still turning, would never have dared but he pushed me on, seriously surprised at with this old shed can do!
Cool down between sessions:
I don’t run a a viscous fan and this feat was hot and I had the aircon on...ahem...its sweaty work ok and you have to have your arms covered and all I had was a fleecy soft shell!!!
Running like that the gauge started moving past centre so aircon off and back off after 6 laps and she was fine. Will need to run an additional electric fan or refit viscous (but with new engine mounts to help it not kiss the radiator).
Tyres did well for the first 5 sessions - I could feel them go off and would back off to let them cool. I also avoided understeer in the main which preserved the front corner. I had the ASC on for the first 5 sessions and could feel it holding back a lot.
I also like how you gain more rubber than you lose!
Ok the final session I switched of ASC and played a bit but the track was very hot - brakes were worn down so as a result I was tipping into the corners harder than the tyres liked so the front left corner took a beating as you can see above - gained some blobs to make up for the loss of writing on the sidewall though!
Single seater that spewed oil out all the time!
Managed to pass the Clio every session - quite please to pass something although I suspect he was new to it.
These old Fords are quick round here!
E30 325i stripped and on slicks - we evenly matched on power but on brakes and in the corners he’d just dive in the inside line (overtake ANYWHERE at Lydden provided its ‘safe’)
@spurs fan in a coupe throwing the Z in the bends.
These RallyX cars were so quick and distracting- they blast past without you knowing and then proceed to pull the handbrake at what must be 100mph, watch them too long and you lose your line and head for the grass!
#133Yesterday at 11:24 PM
I had a little excursion to check out the greenery when I got distracted chasing Andy and didn’t get the entry right at Paddock - it punishes any wrong lines. This is the corner cars go off, often upside down on (a Mini Cooper S did just that in these last session and with the instructor on board too - they walked out fine apparently)
The aftermath of around 70-80miles on track:
1 full tank ( I had to fill up between sessions and at the filling station a new girl was training, the card terminals broke, a trucker couldn’t remember his mileage and the lady in front was doing the weekly shop - all whilst I’m bursting to get back to track to not miss my session, couldn’t make it up!!)
Front pads completed
I usually run EBC yellow stuff but only had standard Mintex £20 ones on and they did alright.
Rears half way down (yellow stuff)
Discs seems fine
Tyres ok just left hand side a bit chafed
Exhaust sounds amazing after this!
Lots of rubber stuck on the inside of the rims, arches etc
More stone chips in one morning than in two years.
Cracked windscreen.
But you know what, I love it - you really bond with it after some proper driving and the marks are ok. Serious respect for what it can do - really pleased all these mods that make it so alive on the road make it so planted on track.
Can’t wait to the next one with some more Z’s!!
The aftermath of around 70-80miles on track:
1 full tank ( I had to fill up between sessions and at the filling station a new girl was training, the card terminals broke, a trucker couldn’t remember his mileage and the lady in front was doing the weekly shop - all whilst I’m bursting to get back to track to not miss my session, couldn’t make it up!!)
Front pads completed
I usually run EBC yellow stuff but only had standard Mintex £20 ones on and they did alright.
Rears half way down (yellow stuff)
Discs seems fine
Tyres ok just left hand side a bit chafed
Exhaust sounds amazing after this!
Lots of rubber stuck on the inside of the rims, arches etc
More stone chips in one morning than in two years.
Cracked windscreen.
But you know what, I love it - you really bond with it after some proper driving and the marks are ok. Serious respect for what it can do - really pleased all these mods that make it so alive on the road make it so planted on track.
Can’t wait to the next one with some more Z’s!!
Little update for 2020:
Following on from the diff swap at Zedshed HQ in 2019 summer (felt like 5mins, time flies) I’ve not had a chance to much:
The track bug has bitten and in preparation for a few more local days (Brands and Lydden Hill) and a tourist weekend at a certain well known ‘public road’ in Germany
with some esteemed company, the car needs to be in fine mechanical shape.
I had a little scare with noise that sounded like engine knock
(as I’m running a raised limiter the risk of oil pump nut increases as proven by a certain @Lee so I said I’d get the limited dropped but had a few *ahem* moments when it strayed past the end of the rev counter when testing out some old rubber...
)
So I stopped using it and had had transported to Martyn Scott’s place https://m.facebook.com/BiddendenMotorWork/?locale2=en_GB
He knows a little about BMW and track work with his own car being a S54 engined e30 race car that he competes with
I was preparing for an engine swap but thankfully it was just a water pump (3 or 4th one in 50k miles..)
The list of work has increased as the cars been checked over and currently stands at:
New radiator, water pump, full coolant flush
New alternator (was very noisy)
Gearbox and engine mounts
Gearbox and diff fluids
Drop sump and spot weld oil pump nut to prevent it backing off on the ‘Ring
Alignment and dial in if more front camber
Replace rusty BC springs with fresh ones
Rear backing plates (full job so remove hubs, new bearings too)
Brake fluid flushed and replaced with high temp ATE fluid
Track pads (Martyn uses pagid RS14 on the front and standard Pagid on the rear of his race car which is some 350bhp but only 1150k with fuel and driver so around 400kg less than my Z)
He can get a whole season racing out of them (30mins on track at a time) and also uses less fule than I do - amazing what less weight does!
I’ve read good things about Carbon Lorraine and Performance Friction so will see - probably try the Pagids for now as they are well proven and fully road legal.
hopefully the list ends there but the rest of suspension needs checking and I won’t be surprised if bush or ball joint needs some attention...
Following on from the diff swap at Zedshed HQ in 2019 summer (felt like 5mins, time flies) I’ve not had a chance to much:
the diff still impressed but ahem it’s a little more thirsty...it’d be perfect if it was a 6speed!DIFF SWAP UPDATE 3.15 LSD to 3.38 LSD (TORSEN)
Well what a fun day!
Top down all the way from Kent to Basingstoke at the crack of dawn.
Lovely breakfast and then some whacky races around the Basingburgring with the VAG fan boys, (terrible dieseasel lovers to make things worse, had us choking in the Z3 with their fumes. Not naming any names but @Rally knows what I mean
The Z returns after 4,5 yrs:
View attachment 116305
Car raised and the work begins (that work includes swearing, getting covered in amazing amounts of rust, having a laugh and a bit of pain - it’s takes some seriously clever manoeuvring to get the diff out when you don’t have a saggy subframe!):
View attachment 116309
Extension on extension on extension on extension...you get the idea!:
View attachment 116311
Gaz thinking ‘how the hell have I ended up back under this old shed?!’:
View attachment 116313
The now infamous Zedshed footwear standards have been maintained over the years however there is a new sock code to adhere too now
View attachment 116307
Okay now some technical stuff.
2.2 3.38 diff next to 2.8 3.15 diff (both confirmed to be torsen items)
Spot the difference?
View attachment 116337 View attachment 116339 View attachment 116341 View attachment 116343
Nope, neither did we, luckily BMW put a helpful little sticker on that is just about there after 20 years!
Turns out that a 2.2 diff is direct fit with the MK1 2.8 - no changing of propshafts or drive shafts or flanges (@Lee gave a detailed explanation of what exactly went on and @Rally took even more detailed notes so if you need more tech specs on this point @Rally is the man to ask
In between work we did squeeze in some cultural education and Lee kindly let us have a play with a proper drill from the 50’s. Why don’t they make stuff like this anymore?
View attachment 116303
@Rally and I went to the same school of engineering - when in doubt hammer it (turns out to be safer than using a grinding too)
View attachment 116319
Not too much appreciation for my love of cable ties from the proper engineers but some of the VAG crew knew the benefits
A good example: This tie reinforced exhaust mount looks as good as I ‘engineered’ it 4yrs ago
View attachment 116317
The pile of bits that that came off kept growing...
View attachment 116315
Comment on the BC and poly bushes after 4yrs - the springs are rusty and this year the coating has come off them but the shocks are still good and leak free which is more than I can say for other coil overs I’ve had, still very happy with the BC kit and will give the springs some attention.
The poly bushes are as good as the day they went in and despite worries / internet talk that they would cause the diff mount to fail that has not been the case I’m pleased to report.
The car is getting very crusty under there so needs some love under the bodywork this winter...
View attachment 116321
So mid afternoon and all back together again.
A couple of, ahem, test drives around the Basingburgring by Lee and Gaz to confirm all is well.... View attachment 116345
So the big question- what does it drive like???
Initial impression feels like it had a little turbo bolted on. It was just more urgent everywhere.
1st is still very usable and changing to 2nd will be interesting in the wet at full bore. 2nd to 3rd is superb, just pulls and pulls.
2nd is now particularly good at skids - the LSD part of this is confirmed as being healthy (although some wet weather testing will be needed just to be extra sure)
I had to head back onto to busy M3/M25 to Kent so got to really test out 5th in the usual 70mph > 5mph > 70 >40> 70 type driving that is the British motorway on a weekend.
What can I say - 5th is epic - I no longer go for 4th when spotting a gap, just plant it in 5th and it goes at any rev.
It feel like it is a 4.5th gear now.
Cruising revs are higher and my calcs say it will do just over 130 before entering the red. So 10mph down - not that I’ll miss it given we don’t have any autobahn
Closer to home I got into familiar A roads and lanes and got use the gears more. The difference became very apparent on familiar roads where I could really compare. The easiest way to explain it is like having a small turbo- no lag and just more torque. If you’ve owned a VTEC you’ll recognise this analagy - it now just falls into VTEC after each gearchange, even if you didn’t redline it so it’s in its ide powerband more of the time.
Although the gears are shorter I can actually rev out a gear more as instead of taking 2nd, 3rd will do (which has always been a good year on the 2.8 but now even better). 4th is great for flowing A road work now, lovely torque and pulls strongly a bit like 3rd used to be..
I then tried ‘lugging’ it in 5th. The 2.8 party piece has always been how tractable it is even in 5th. Well now it’s even better and the shorter gear, funnily enough, make for a more relaxing drive as I can leave it in 5th and still have plenty of poke on a nice A road. It’s pulls cleanly from under 20mph and in no time up to 60 all in 5th. The only car I’ve driven that pulls like this is has 8 cylinders and 4.4l at its disposal. The little Z really feels more brawny now.
So initial impressions - love it more that I thought I would. I’ve hung on to my old diff in case I didn’t like this but I don’t see this 3.38 coming out of this car (unless a turbo ended up under the bonnet!).
If I did a lot of motorway work I’d want a 6th gear (and if we find a box that fits and is not off a unicorn M3 EVO it could well happen - currently the knowledge is that only the M3 EVO 6sp will fit with shortened prop shaft. However, maybe, just maybe there is another ZF box in the BMW parts bin that will work and is more freely available than a M3 box, here’s hoping). With a 6th gear it would be better than BMW intended and what they really should have done in the beginning...
For the way I use this car (for pleasure not commuting big miles) this mod is just perfect and I’m looking forward to re-learning driving it along familiar roads as the gear shift points have all changed!
Oh and a side effect of this is a positive change in exhaust note - it’s just sounds ‘more’ now given the revs it sits at / way the power is being delivered. After the remap, the track day and now this diff the car is sounding better than ever (apart from a rattle which is looking like the cat and not a bracket
Reflecting back on the car with Gaz and Lee looking at all the changes it’s quite something that a car I was thinking of breaking 5yes ago was brought back to life in the Zedshed and has blossomed - just so much fun for so little £ cost and endless fun tweaking (the frustrations get forgotten!)
it’s a hard to beat formula and one of the many reasons for me anyway, a Z3 is a no brainer keeper!
Final shot of the day in its national habitat - it’s the second time in month I’ve filled up twice in a day
View attachment 116347
Thanks again to @Lee @GazHyde @Rally for the hard graft and fun and to @pgunter and @Oldguysrule rule for coffee and moral support
Who knew that rolling around under a Z3 fighting with rust inaccessible bolts is actually fun with the right company (and tools and experienced supervisors!)
The track bug has bitten and in preparation for a few more local days (Brands and Lydden Hill) and a tourist weekend at a certain well known ‘public road’ in Germany
with some esteemed company, the car needs to be in fine mechanical shape.I had a little scare with noise that sounded like engine knock
(as I’m running a raised limiter the risk of oil pump nut increases as proven by a certain @Lee so I said I’d get the limited dropped but had a few *ahem* moments when it strayed past the end of the rev counter when testing out some old rubber...)So I stopped using it and had had transported to Martyn Scott’s place https://m.facebook.com/BiddendenMotorWork/?locale2=en_GB
He knows a little about BMW and track work with his own car being a S54 engined e30 race car that he competes with
I was preparing for an engine swap but thankfully it was just a water pump (3 or 4th one in 50k miles..)
The list of work has increased as the cars been checked over and currently stands at:
New radiator, water pump, full coolant flush
New alternator (was very noisy)
Gearbox and engine mounts
Gearbox and diff fluids
Drop sump and spot weld oil pump nut to prevent it backing off on the ‘Ring
Alignment and dial in if more front camber
Replace rusty BC springs with fresh ones
Rear backing plates (full job so remove hubs, new bearings too)
Brake fluid flushed and replaced with high temp ATE fluid
Track pads (Martyn uses pagid RS14 on the front and standard Pagid on the rear of his race car which is some 350bhp but only 1150k with fuel and driver so around 400kg less than my Z
)He can get a whole season racing out of them (30mins on track at a time) and also uses less fule than I do - amazing what less weight does!
I’ve read good things about Carbon Lorraine and Performance Friction so will see - probably try the Pagids for now as they are well proven and fully road legal.
hopefully the list ends there but the rest of suspension needs checking and I won’t be surprised if bush or ball joint needs some attention...
That little lot should get it into proper mechanical shape so we hopefully can focus on some proper work - a trip or two (!) back to its rebirth place at Zedshed HQ for some fun go faster bits to finish it off - M50 manifold which it desperately wants to match the lower diff ratios, lighter flywheel for a bit more zing and Vanos seals which should cure the low rev hiccups.
should be a totally transformed car once again as just the revamp and diff have changed the character - should be and ready and reliable for some hard work in the summer
In the meantime I’ve developed a wheel problem...TBC
- a trip or two (!) back to its rebirth place at Zedshed HQ for some fun go faster bits to finish it off - M50 manifold which it desperately wants to match the lower diff ratios, lighter flywheel for a bit more zing and Vanos seals which should cure the low rev hiccups.should be a totally transformed car once again as just the revamp and diff have changed the character - should be and ready and reliable for some hard work in the summer
In the meantime I’ve developed a wheel problem...TBC
Wheel problem:
I started the year with:
4 x 17 inch Mstyle alloys which it run now:
I also have two of these M style but in 18 inch 8j so a ‘double stagger’:
test fitted head with no tyre and of course it’s bright silver not shadow chrome..
Needs spraying to match and some rubber of course
Then the are the e39 5 series style 32’s - the deeeep 8/9j ones that have been in the shed for about 4yrs which I picked up at a great price
Terrible pic but they fit and I know the potential they have - idea was for a high quality gloss shadow chrome.
BUT for track I want to run a square set up, ideally 245 all around and when checking the e46 style 68 8,5j rears make sense - 8,5j is the ‘fitted’ rim size for Yokohama AD08RS tyres and as these are 50 offset they will not poke at the front (might even need 10mm spacer). They are also light (under 10kg) and cheap - but to get 4 x rears I had to buy from 3 sellers to make up a set (which happen to be 3 shades of silver or black
so a cheap refurb is needed- which I want to do anyway to ensure they all straight and crack free - they worked out £200 for the set so still great value even with the refurb):
However, whilst looking for these 68’s, i of course cane across these genuine Racing Dynamics wheels in e36 fitment (8j et 33) - they are rare wheels and when they do come up they are usually 5 series offset (very low offset so poke badly on the front) or they are the flat face ones and usually silly money..
These are the one I love - they have that classic 90’s ‘soft line’ dish and the classic clean RD 5 spoke design.
They fit BUT I couldn’t run the same tyres all around as they are already flush at the front - as the track tyres are wider than road tyres I’d need to do something like 215/225 and 235/245 - that would defeat the point of saving on tyres by being able to to rotate.
But they look nice I blame eBay and Paisley freight for making it too easy to get wheels online
I knew I was being optimistic for a square track set up but I’ve loved these wheels for ages so had to give it a go. They would be fine for road but I already have wheels that I love for the road and stil have to finish off for the double stagger look (M style 17 and 18’s)
Unfortunately with costs mounting and realistically no time to run so many wheels I’m going to have to rationalise.
I should just stick with the M style wheels for road and the 68’s for track and let the 32’s and Racing Dynamics go.
The thing is these wheels took years to find at a good price but I’ve been there before with too many sets of wheels and no space/time/money to use them - it’s funny how they can suddenly accumulate yet take forever to sell one
anyhow very excited for this year And even though I’ll only probably get to do a couple of UK days and the Ring I know that will be plenty of a fix for the rest of the year (and wallet)
I started the year with:
4 x 17 inch Mstyle alloys which it run now:
I also have two of these M style but in 18 inch 8j so a ‘double stagger’:
test fitted head with no tyre and of course it’s bright silver not shadow chrome..
Needs spraying to match and some rubber of course
Then the are the e39 5 series style 32’s - the deeeep 8/9j ones that have been in the shed for about 4yrs which I picked up at a great price
Terrible pic but they fit and I know the potential they have - idea was for a high quality gloss shadow chrome.
BUT for track I want to run a square set up, ideally 245 all around and when checking the e46 style 68 8,5j rears make sense - 8,5j is the ‘fitted’ rim size for Yokohama AD08RS tyres and as these are 50 offset they will not poke at the front (might even need 10mm spacer). They are also light (under 10kg) and cheap - but to get 4 x rears I had to buy from 3 sellers to make up a set (which happen to be 3 shades of silver or black
so a cheap refurb is needed- which I want to do anyway to ensure they all straight and crack free - they worked out £200 for the set so still great value even with the refurb):However, whilst looking for these 68’s, i of course cane across these genuine Racing Dynamics wheels in e36 fitment (8j et 33) - they are rare wheels and when they do come up they are usually 5 series offset (very low offset so poke badly on the front) or they are the flat face ones and usually silly money..
These are the one I love - they have that classic 90’s ‘soft line’ dish and the classic clean RD 5 spoke design.
They fit BUT I couldn’t run the same tyres all around as they are already flush at the front - as the track tyres are wider than road tyres I’d need to do something like 215/225 and 235/245 - that would defeat the point of saving on tyres by being able to to rotate.
But they look nice
I blame eBay and Paisley freight for making it too easy to get wheels online I knew I was being optimistic for a square track set up but I’ve loved these wheels for ages so had to give it a go. They would be fine for road but I already have wheels that I love for the road and stil have to finish off for the double stagger look (M style 17 and 18’s)
Unfortunately with costs mounting and realistically no time to run so many wheels I’m going to have to rationalise.
I should just stick with the M style wheels for road and the 68’s for track and let the 32’s and Racing Dynamics go
.The thing is these wheels took years to find at a good price but I’ve been there before with too many sets of wheels and no space/time/money to use them - it’s funny how they can suddenly accumulate yet take forever to sell one
anyhow very excited for this year And even though I’ll only probably get to do a couple of UK days and the Ring I know that will be plenty of a fix for the rest of the year (and wallet
)
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So a little update on how the mods feel after all this work above was done. Since just before lockdown the M50 manifold and enlarged throttle body + ASC unit have been fitted too.
Firstly nice and quiet at idle again without the alternator and water pump noise.
The engine mounts let know when you turn it over-you feel the engine now and it feels like it running a massive engine-on the move it feels great.
Gearshift action more positive too.
The drivetrain feels ‘hooked up’ and less saloon car and more sports car.
The M50 manifold made it sound louder - noticeably more induction noise. It however felt very flat for the first 60 miles or so- noticeable drop in torque. I had the remapped d ECU fitted prior so it needed time to adjust it seems. It now doesn’t feel strangled at the top end and just pulls even harder when in the vanos range. A small drop on low end torque but with my lower ratio diff it’s barely noticeable-it pulls from idle in 5th easily and just builds to the redline which has always been the 2.8 party piece.
The diff came out of a 175k mile 2.2 breaker car I bought from a seller who was a bit economical with the truth regarding the condition of the car... the diff whined badly at cruising revs and behaved a bit strange not always hiking up consistently.
Opies oils recommended Redline Shock proof oil and it seems to have done the trick-diff noise down to normal and it behaves how it should -hooks up very nicely and consistent with no noises.
some pics:
Manifold comparison:
rocking those Racing Dynamics wheels:
Oily bits under the cam cover:
New alternator
That nut is not going come off @Lee
old vs new engine mounts
Fresh handbrake bits:
whatever you do don’t lose these little bits when taking the handbrake apart-they done come in the kits with shoes and springs, BMW only aches are around £100. I found the old ones eventually so they’ll be kept very safe..
Crusty rear back plate
PU engine mounts
rusty springs, just need some tlc. Very impressed with the BC Suspension- shocks are still fine after 5yrs.
I didn’t get pics of the bored out throttle body and ASC unit but have some of my old ones:
Firstly nice and quiet at idle again without the alternator and water pump noise.
The engine mounts let know when you turn it over-you feel the engine now and it feels like it running a massive engine-on the move it feels great.
Gearshift action more positive too.
The drivetrain feels ‘hooked up’ and less saloon car and more sports car.
The M50 manifold made it sound louder - noticeably more induction noise. It however felt very flat for the first 60 miles or so- noticeable drop in torque. I had the remapped d ECU fitted prior so it needed time to adjust it seems. It now doesn’t feel strangled at the top end and just pulls even harder when in the vanos range. A small drop on low end torque but with my lower ratio diff it’s barely noticeable-it pulls from idle in 5th easily and just builds to the redline which has always been the 2.8 party piece.
The diff came out of a 175k mile 2.2 breaker car I bought from a seller who was a bit economical with the truth regarding the condition of the car... the diff whined badly at cruising revs and behaved a bit strange not always hiking up consistently.
Opies oils recommended Redline Shock proof oil and it seems to have done the trick-diff noise down to normal and it behaves how it should -hooks up very nicely and consistent with no noises.
some pics:
Manifold comparison:
rocking those Racing Dynamics wheels:
Oily bits under the cam cover:
New alternator
That nut is not going come off @Lee
old vs new engine mounts
Fresh handbrake bits:
whatever you do don’t lose these little bits when taking the handbrake apart-they done come in the kits with shoes and springs, BMW only aches are around £100. I found the old ones eventually so they’ll be kept very safe..
Crusty rear back plate
PU engine mounts
rusty springs, just need some tlc. Very impressed with the BC Suspension- shocks are still fine after 5yrs.
I didn’t get pics of the bored out throttle body and ASC unit but have some of my old ones:
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Throttle body was from this seller - he does exchange units now which is handy.
https://ebay.co.uk/usr/sneakapeak99
https://ebay.co.uk/usr/sneakapeak99
Nice write up Dino. I did mention those little cable connector pins in my H/B cable "How to" a few years ago. Very small and easily mislaid.
Tony.
Tony.
Brake update;
I finally decided on Carbon Lorraine RC6 pads as I will swap between road and track pads and will live with the brake squeal if they perform well.
As they don’t come with the retaining clips that hold it to the piston or anti squeal backing, I used the anti squeal shis from a set of standard mintex pads and applied plenty of molyslip anti squeal paste.
Not the actual ones but they look like this-very meaty and not chamfered so the whole pad contacts the disc, being sintered all metallic pads they have a distinct silver colour.
so what do we think?
Wow. Firm pedal, no more long travel and they just stop the car like nothing I’ve experienced. They easily over come the ABS in the dry highlighting that I’ll need proper rubber for the track. Stopping distance feels halved compared with stock and is effortless.
Really doubted just a pad change could make such a difference but I’m gobsmacked. I thought EBC Yellowstuff were good-they feel Mickey Mouse by comparison. Pleasantly surprised.
These do squeal at low applications but not as bad as I feared so they’ll likely stay on over summer.
They do generate more heat so for track work cooling is essential.
Cue some ducting:
New front back plates to allow direct ram air feed onto discs
who needs fogs when you can have brake ducts:
the ducting fits snugly on the backplate and intake duct but it’s a bit too larg to neatly tuck away and not foul on full lock. Need to experiment some more and failing that use smaller ducting and some reducers. Plenty of time before it serious some heavy use so no rush...
I finally decided on Carbon Lorraine RC6 pads as I will swap between road and track pads and will live with the brake squeal if they perform well.
As they don’t come with the retaining clips that hold it to the piston or anti squeal backing, I used the anti squeal shis from a set of standard mintex pads and applied plenty of molyslip anti squeal paste.
Not the actual ones but they look like this-very meaty and not chamfered so the whole pad contacts the disc, being sintered all metallic pads they have a distinct silver colour.
so what do we think?
Wow. Firm pedal, no more long travel and they just stop the car like nothing I’ve experienced. They easily over come the ABS in the dry highlighting that I’ll need proper rubber for the track. Stopping distance feels halved compared with stock and is effortless.
Really doubted just a pad change could make such a difference but I’m gobsmacked. I thought EBC Yellowstuff were good-they feel Mickey Mouse by comparison. Pleasantly surprised.
These do squeal at low applications but not as bad as I feared so they’ll likely stay on over summer.
They do generate more heat so for track work cooling is essential.
Cue some ducting:
New front back plates to allow direct ram air feed onto discs
who needs fogs when you can have brake ducts:
the ducting fits snugly on the backplate and intake duct but it’s a bit too larg to neatly tuck away and not foul on full lock. Need to experiment some more and failing that use smaller ducting and some reducers. Plenty of time before it serious some heavy use so no rush...
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2011
- Points
- 175
Awesome upgrades mate
Great thread Dino well done.
Amazing write up mate enjoyed reading that. I'm hoping our trip to the ring goes ahead next month but I'm not holding my breath. We've decided our plan B is to book a track day in the UK. Really looking forward to seeing how our cars feel on the limit, they're so similar now.
Just need to get your lightweight flywheel and race clutch in
P.S in the new handbrake picture the handbrake mech has come out the groove on the shoe.
Just need to get your lightweight flywheel and race clutch in
P.S in the new handbrake picture the handbrake mech has come out the groove on the shoe.
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Soooo onto wheels...again...
Thanks (or no thanks!) to @Mario I discovered the ideal fitment - 8,5j et 37. So I have yet another set of wheels.... sighs...
More spokes than I’d like and a kg heavier than the 68’s but they fit. And they plentiful and cheap.
This is with a 255 tyre on so pokes a bit but the track rubber will be 245 (actually 249 wide) so a little more camber might be needed which is fine for track.
the looks are growing on me (I want my cake and eat it so I want functional and good looking wheels but am not paying for Apex ARC8 wheels)
1 more anthracite one like the one I’ve got on the way and two more like this in a shadow chrome shade:
Recently painted so no refurb necessary and I’ll get to have different shades on each side of the car
Now I need to get some of the other wheels sold but idea of a ‘wheel wall’ of fame keeps coming to mind.... but track days cost ££ so I better get on with liquidating those wheels
Thanks (or no thanks!) to @Mario I discovered the ideal fitment - 8,5j et 37. So I have yet another set of wheels.... sighs...
More spokes than I’d like and a kg heavier than the 68’s but they fit. And they plentiful and cheap.
This is with a 255 tyre on so pokes a bit but the track rubber will be 245 (actually 249 wide) so a little more camber might be needed which is fine for track.
the looks are growing on me (I want my cake and eat it so I want functional and good looking wheels but am not paying for Apex ARC8 wheels
)1 more anthracite one like the one I’ve got on the way and two more like this in a shadow chrome shade:
Now I need to get some of the other wheels sold but idea of a ‘wheel wall’ of fame keeps coming to mind.... but track days cost ££ so I better get on with liquidating those wheels
You must try these pads- I doubt you’ll be able to kill them, amazing stopping power on what are rather weedy stock discs and calipers
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can’t wait to get on track and see how it goes!Amazing write up mate enjoyed reading that. I'm hoping our trip to the ring goes ahead next month but I'm not holding my breath. We've decided our plan B is to book a track day in the UK. Really looking forward to seeing how our cars feel on the limit, they're so similar now.
Just need to get your lightweight flywheel and race clutch in
P.S in the new handbrake picture the handbrake mech has come out the groove on the shoe.
re the clutch -been digging and found a post on PH about a guy who fitted the 6 sp out of a 330i:
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=1247633
hi, i have just fitted a 6 speed out of a 330iE46 into my 328i E36. This is the same gearbox as the 320d and 330d, however the diesel versions have different gear ratios and the engines sit 10 degrees more upright. This would cause issues when fitting to a petrol model, new engie mounts would be needed.
Anyway back to the 330i box, the input shaft was alot shorter than the original box as the spigot bearing is mounted in the fly wheel, so in answer to your question, you will need to change the flywheel for the correct one to suit the box.
What i done though was looked on ebay and found a fly wheel and clutch from a 320d for under £80 , these are alot more readily available than the 330i ones, so was not a great expense. The only mod required to fit the diesel flywheel was the guide tube for the release bearing needed 10 mm taking off. The set back of using a diesel fly wheel is that it is slightly heavier, but you are unlikely to notice this when driving. You will need to take 4 inches off the propshaft and also fabricate a new gearbox support bracket. the original slave cylinder works however i need to put two washers on the studs before fitting it to the box as it was too close to the release arm.
in hinds sight E46 M3 box is probably alot easier also if it is going on a 328i i dont think you need to change the clutch and fly wheel as they are the same. This is 328 only with ZF box.
So looks like a M3 box is not needed but a 330i clutch/fly wheel is. Must be some light weight options for those by now...
Re the handbrake, I don’t think that pic was of the finished article-no horrible noises so sounds like it’s all in place properly (here hoping!).
I’ll need to upgrade the rear pads so will shop of the disc and check. What pads do you run on the rear? EBC yellow were crumbling on the rear after Lydden so think they could with a as bit of cooling as well..
That's a cracking find with the gearbox. All mods I can do myself now have a machine shop under my control. I'm not that fussed with a 6th gear but if the parts are cheap enough we could sit down and price it all up.
I run stock brembo rear pads, I get so much stopping up front I can late brake most corners. I've never had any issues with the rears even over the whole weekend on the ring where most stopping is done from above 100.
oooh a machine shop under control-I’m having pictures of @GazHyde locked in your basement slaving away with an angle grinder
the 330 box seems a bit of a faff but when M3 boxes are going for 800 plus makes it look more appealing.
I’m thinking with 6 gears that on track it’s only be 2-4 in use (apart from the ring) then with 6th you can cruise back and have chance of being under 4k rpm at ‘motorway’ speeds. I’m amazed how I can go almost anywhere in 5th now, it feels like 3rd sometimes!
Interesting point on the rear pads - I guess without proper pads on the front my rears were working overtime. With these CL6 it feels like the rears do nothing much more so they’ll probably fair better now..
And with track rubber I’ll be able to carry more sites into the corner-road rubber was just not predicable enough as it got hot.