Bognor Lean-to Project

[Lee]

Thank you for the offer of the tools

I am going to have the long weekend off......and then look at each problem and work out how to sort it....and as Lee said ........One at a time.......
A bit overwhelmed today with the amount of things that went crap on me......just goes to show how good a condition my 1.9 is.....didn’t have a problem with any of the nuts and bolts when I stripped that one down.

I think I will try to get the exhaust off first......removing whats left of the nuts.......do the studs on the manifold flange push out. ( ie smack them with a bloody great hammer!!!!!) or would they need to be drilled out.

The studs on the exhaust flange come out with a g-clamp and a socket. They have a spline on the other side. Use a dremel with a grinder tip to remove what’s left of those nuts. Time consuming but worth it.

 

[t-tony]

If you have access to heat they come out easy Malc. They're splined into the flanges. It's risky to try knocking them out with out heat if the flanges and pipes are rough. One other way is one I saw either on here or YouTube is to cut a slot in the flange through to the stud, which releases the tightness of the fit and then they knock out relatively easily. If you have an Impact driver set, such as,

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Using a Dremmel or similar and grinding disc you can cut a slot in the screw heads in the side brackets and use the big flat blade driver bit in a socket to turn them.

Tony.

 

[Althulas]

On mine they are nuts and bolts. Hopefully they are interference fit (see what realism shows) and may come out with some heat but saying that....What do the manifold fastener look like? If they are ok and accessible maybe consider taking the manifold off and deal with easier on a bench. I know it’s more work but may save time and frustration.

 

[t-tony]

Sounds as though yours has already been attended to Mark as the splined studs are factory. Must've made easier production because that's the only sensible reason they didn't use nuts and bolts in the first place.

Tony.

 

[Lee]

Z3M’s have a different flange arrangement. Not the same as non M’s.

 

[Althulas]

I should have been more specific but looks like Lee and Tony have a more experienced approach to the problem

 

[Lee]

@t-tony

This is actually the better approach, forgot about this method. Cut a slot in the side where the stud is to release the tension on the stud. Goes from hours to a few minutes with a little power tool.

I quoted the wrong message

 

[Synclare]

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[Synclare]

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[t-tony]

Looks like the exhaust has had a de-cat Malc judging by the two straight pipes welded in - unless they are incorporated in the manifolds - may present mot problem. That manky box is the mid silencer and they always go like that. Ref the beam catch plate 'cap head' bolts, if you have access to a hobby mig welder try grinding the bolts clean and welding a nut on with the current cranked up (isolate vehicle electrics first). That will give you plenty of purchase but ensure you will be able to get at the front bolt as you experienced access problems to that before.

Now you say that Adrian, I think you are correct, it was Rob who suggested doing this. Where he got the idea I don't know.

Tony.

 

[miller1098]

Hats off,that’s more than I would take on and no messing you’re in “balls deep” as the expression goes

 

[mrscalex]

Now you say that Adrian, I think you are correct, it was Rob who suggested doing this. Where he got the idea I don't know.

Tony.

It was borrowed from a how to on dismantling seized door mirror assemblies.

 

[Mazza]

Sitting in a car park after going for a run in the 1.9.....and contemplating how I will tackle all the problems on the 2.8.
Exhaust off first.... I have a multitool with a metal blade.... so will cut all the remaining bits of nut off, I have a blowlamp, so can heat the flanges and I have a big G clamp and socket... so thinking positively.... that will do it. !
Probably best to support the weight with axle stands until the flange is separated.

The snapped brake pipe will need to be repaired, so will need to get a flaring tool that will work in situ and some new fittings The other side brake union is totally rounded so will cut that and do a similar repair. So no problem there .....
Once I have had a bit of a practice !!!

the screws of doom......I have found a impact driver.....( forgot I had it, )... So space permitting, I can put a slot in the head with the multitool, and whack it with a hammer ......Theory good .....
If they undo great !! But if the head snaps off no worse off and at least I will be able to drop the beam

broken stud in front cross beam......use my angle grinder (very carefully) to even up the end of the stud, then centre pop it, drill a 3 or 4mm hole down the centre and use an extractor which I will have to buy.... that’ll work

If all that goes according to plan.... just need to persuade the diff bush nut and bolt to undo or cut it out

Then Other than a heat shield and the hand brake cables to release, every thing else is ok

....someone doesn’t agree....I’m getting negative vibes....

So that’s the plan..... and it springs into action on Tuesday

Now off to burn some fuel needlessly

 

[t-tony]

Just don’t try to do it all in one day mate and you’ll get there.

Tony.

 

[Mazza]

I was planning on a one day per task working schedule........

I wonder if Lee , Trev and Gaz would like to come to a BBQ in Bognor

 

[Mazza]

Wasn’t going to do anything until tomorrow.....BUT.......frigging addictive !!!!!!

So I thought i would start with a positive.....and success.....all four disc screws loosened off...

Next ....exhaust....... system is crap.....so doesn’t matter what I do to it.....
Cut it off seems to be a good idea...

 

[t-tony]

Wasn’t going to do anything until tomorrow.....BUT.......frigging addictive !!!!!!

So I thought i would start with a positive.....and success.....all four disc screws loosened off...

Next ....exhaust....... system is crap.....so doesn’t matter what I do to it.....
Cut it off seems to be a good udea.....

If its not worth saving you may as well cut it off Malc.

Tony.

ps. Has the bolt landed yet mate?

 

[Mazza]

So...
Cut through with an angle grinder then started sawing it....

Then I remembered this....

So...much easier ...

Its left me these to sort but access it better....

I did start on the remaining bits but after a while got fed up laying under the car in all the crap...and gave up!!!!
That can wait until another day....

Looked at the brake lines and decided ..in the scheme of things..renew the lot.....so I will cut the flexi’s when the time come to drop the beam.

I did tentatively try to remove one of the screws of doom .....but gave up...... they will all be subject to a load of grinding, an angle grinder cutting disc, a drill and extractor tool as they will not budge!!!!
..........O yes they will. EVENTUALLY !!!

I did mangage to get the diff bolt undone So thats one less to worry about.
,

 

[Mazza]

Quite impressed by the exhaust repairs..
You can see the holes where it wasn't welded...

And again...

This was left open...surely something is meant to go in the hole ????

The bodge in the middle is where the cats were removed !!!!

 

[Althulas]

Pity you don’t have access to a welder as you could weld a nut onto those four torx bolts. The extractor sockets are quite good though as you hammer it in and it bites right into the bolt or nut. To be honest Malc I would be wary of using the type that you tap left handed in as if the extractor shears it would be a right pain in the ass to get out. Keep at though mate I’ve every confidence you will get there.