Rebody Another 507 build
- Thread starter Piran
- Start date
Is one of them the outside temperarure sensor? The long thin one. Does the clock in your center console have outside temp?
I haven't come across the top one yet.
Middle one I assumed was outside temperature sensor as I removed it from near the kidney grills.
Bottom one looks like side marker or side indicator.
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2011
- Points
- 165
The plug is for the headlamp washer pump. The disc is the temperature sensor (on/off) for the heated washer jets. The middle one is a temperature sensor (variable) for the ECU or outside temperature gauge. The bottom one, I assume, is the side light on the bumper.
Dan had heated washer jets so he reused them on his 507 bonnet. Mine unfortunately weren't so I've gone for new chrome washer jets
Dxbolton
Zorg Guru (III)
The heated washer jets and heated door mirrors automatically function when it’s below 6 celcius.Dan had heated washer jets so he reused them on his 507 bonnet. Mine unfortunately weren't so I've gone for new chrome washer jets
Mirrors will no longer work as removed, but I kept the heated washer jets.
Apparently my phone didn't keep the photos I took.
I've fitted the wiring to the car side of the loom using a 7 core trailer wire. I've run it from the passenger side, along in front of the radiator and then down the side. I've got a 7 way connector block that I'll use to connect the wiring to the loom on the bonnet - that way it'll be easy to take the bonnet off at a later date.
I've glued conduit to the underside of the bonnet and run the cable inside that for the lights.
There's a lot of sanding and filling to do so I'll get on to that before putting the actual lights in and refitting the bonnet to the car.
I've also got the indicator cowlings to fit (somewhow) and lots of gelcoat to redo.
I've fitted the wiring to the car side of the loom using a 7 core trailer wire. I've run it from the passenger side, along in front of the radiator and then down the side. I've got a 7 way connector block that I'll use to connect the wiring to the loom on the bonnet - that way it'll be easy to take the bonnet off at a later date.
I've glued conduit to the underside of the bonnet and run the cable inside that for the lights.
There's a lot of sanding and filling to do so I'll get on to that before putting the actual lights in and refitting the bonnet to the car.
I've also got the indicator cowlings to fit (somewhow) and lots of gelcoat to redo.
How was the mould for your headlight surround. My offside was fine but my near side was 15mm out of plumb, meaning that it was pointing upwards slightly. I ended up cutting 5mm back to retain the bezel and building the top out.
Had a nightmare with the karmann ghia indicators. Mine was the prototype so i think is a slightly different shape to Dans. When offering them up they pointed downwards. I've had recess them to get them looking straight.
My kit is just a week old and my nearside headlight is a bit wonkey too.
Top half of the headlight mounting surface looks straight but bottom half sticks out a bit.
I'll chop out that crescent shape you see from the underside and push the front surface back straight.
As for front indicators. I'm not going to bother with the VW slopey shaped ones. I'll either go for straight lucas style recessed. Or go full modern LED headlights with halo daytime driving lights and built in indicator.
Not decided yet. Might fit modern ones just to get it drivable while I make my mind up.
Top half of the headlight mounting surface looks straight but bottom half sticks out a bit.
I'll chop out that crescent shape you see from the underside and push the front surface back straight.
As for front indicators. I'm not going to bother with the VW slopey shaped ones. I'll either go for straight lucas style recessed. Or go full modern LED headlights with halo daytime driving lights and built in indicator.
Not decided yet. Might fit modern ones just to get it drivable while I make my mind up.
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Can i get a photo of your external boot hinges? I thinknI'd prefer internal hinges but, I suppose, external is an option.
I went external as it was easy.....may end up dropping back to using the zed boot hinges and modifying as Dan has done.
I had to bring them in a bit as my 1st position had them catching on the back
Attachments
I've attached some pics.
I fitted the headlight bowl to make the cut section more stable, then used packers to get it right, then a bit of fiberglass filler dotted around to hold it in place, removed the packers, fibreglassed the inside and fibreglass filler on the outside.
Attachments
Thanks.
I got rid of my zed hinges with the bootlid so I don't have that option. May go for MB AClass hinges.
I used triumph TR4 hinges.
jaguartvr
Zorg Guru (I)
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2017
- Points
- 95
Fork Handles
You may want to fit some candle holders to the front as I see you have fitted the replica Lucas tribal lights. I did the same but the illumination from them ia truly awful, I had to use main beam continuously and never once got flashed, the illumination was still bad on main beam.
If you look inside the headlight you will notice that the bulb has a cap on it that is designed to reflect the light backwards onto the reflector and then project it forward, I think this is the source of the problem.
I had to swap my headlights for standard versions. I am intending to use stick on lead strips (sold to fit onto house windows), this should give a very similar look but not use the rearward reflector. I haven't got around to trying it yet but it should work, famous last words but the stick on lead is only a few pounds on eBay.
You may want to fit some candle holders to the front as I see you have fitted the replica Lucas tribal lights. I did the same but the illumination from them ia truly awful, I had to use main beam continuously and never once got flashed, the illumination was still bad on main beam.
If you look inside the headlight you will notice that the bulb has a cap on it that is designed to reflect the light backwards onto the reflector and then project it forward, I think this is the source of the problem.
I had to swap my headlights for standard versions. I am intending to use stick on lead strips (sold to fit onto house windows), this should give a very similar look but not use the rearward reflector. I haven't got around to trying it yet but it should work, famous last words but the stick on lead is only a few pounds on eBay.
Thanks for the tip. Not planning on much evening driving but if I do I'm sure it'll move to the top of my list
I was just about to say that's a daft idea because the draft would blow them out - but then I thought it's actually not a bad idea what with the new speed limit in Wales and all that.
Dxbolton
Zorg Guru (III)
I’ve had no issues with the Tri-bar lights and night driving. I did use different bulbs to those supplied with the units as they didn’t look too clever.
I might upgrade to Osram Nightbreakers as I used them on other cars I have and are a superb upgrade for any light unit.