Rebody Another 507 build

I'm still waiting for my reversing lights to arrive. As Dan mentioned, I'm having the ones that sit under my rear lights. Originally went with Pirans one of each but then backtracked to 2 reversing and 1 central fog light under the bumper. Gone for vw t2 reversing lights as they look similar to the original 507
 

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Ok,so some gelcoat repair and the fuel flap to finish off the back, sort out the fuel filler flap. While I'm waiting for parts I've started looking at the headlight wiring.
I can just take the wires (once I've worked out what's what) from the drivers side and run the bulbs in parallel or I can run wire from both sides of the car to the lights (running wires from both the drivers and passengers sides back to the hinge, onto the bonnet and then along the bonnet). would be interested in hearing what others have done?
 
Ok,so some gelcoat repair and the fuel flap to finish off the back, sort out the fuel filler flap. While I'm waiting for parts I've started looking at the headlight wiring.
I can just take the wires (once I've worked out what's what) from the drivers side and run the bulbs in parallel or I can run wire from both sides of the car to the lights (running wires from both the drivers and passengers sides back to the hinge, onto the bonnet and then along the bonnet). would be interested in hearing what others have done?

I ran my cables from each side. I didn't want to see the cables under my bonnet so made a template and cut some thin fibreglass sheet which I tiger sealed to the hollow in the bonnet having put draw cables in 1st.

The pic shows the bonnet flipped over as it was easier to do this way. Front headlight and indicators are connected up now. I've left another draw cable in each side so that I can put front fog lights in at a later date.

Everything will be flowcoated black when finished
 

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Each headlight is individually switched from the switch, and individually fused before the switch. Look at the wiring diagram to see what you are changing. If you are going to make changes, do it with the knowledge of what you are changing.

I see each bulb has it's own fuse too (7.5a), I guess that provides some redundancy, but not enough to run two bulbs, so separate wiring it is. I'm surprised how low the fuse is, I'd expected nearer 16amps.
 
I see each bulb has it's own fuse too (7.5a), I guess that provides some redundancy, but not enough to run two bulbs, so separate wiring it is. I'm surprised how low the fuse is, I'd expected nearer 16amps.
Headlights are fused separately for obvious driving safety reasons. A 12v 55w bulb only pulls around 4.5amps plus a bit for sidelight, say 5 amp max.
 
Headlights are fused separately for obvious driving safety reasons. A 12v 55w bulb only pulls around 4.5amps plus a bit for sidelight, say 5 amp max.
Given my other project car is a Triumph Herald - which doesn't have any fuses ...
 
I used 16.5a 7 core trailer cable (recommended by Dan).....3 for headlight, 2 for parking light and 2 for indicator. Also ran a 2 core for spot lights
 
I used 16.5a 7 core trailer cable (recommended by Dan).....3 for headlight, 2 for parking light and 2 for indicator. Also ran a 2 core for spot lights
I'm confused. Why didn't you just use the existing wiring and extend it where necessary? I am planning on doing this and running another cable in parallel with the high beam for spots (or if I do fogs use the existing fog light wiring).
 
I used 16.5a 7 core trailer cable (recommended by Dan).....3 for headlight, 2 for parking light and 2 for indicator. Also ran a 2 core for spot lights
I do like trailer wire, prewrapped loom is very handy. Although I do have some ESA spec wire that I have to use somewhere.
 
I'm confused. Why didn't you just use the existing wiring and extend it where necessary? I am planning on doing this and running another cable in parallel with the high beam for spots (or if I do fogs use the existing fog light wiring).

I found it simpler to run new 7 core cables from the old headlight position using waterproof connectors back towards the hinges and then hidden behind a fibreglass panel that i bonded in the clamshell exiting where the new headlights are.

Plus side for me is that there was no stripping of the old loom, no different length cables to extend and tgen tape up. I have 4 waterproof connectors per side (2 at the old headlight position, 2 at the new).

If I have issues in the future it'll be at the easily accessible connectors as the rest of it is brand new continuous cable from the old headlight position to the new one. No stripping back the taped up loom for faults.

At the end of the day, you'll do your car your way and I'll do mine my way. We both end up with the same results.

Piran was asking what people had done.
No doubt he'll take the different methods on board and will work out which method works best for him.
 
The Tribute kits have hinged front end s so the wiring loom needs to be re routed and extended.
The 250 California has a fixed front so the wiring just needs a small modification.
 
The Tribute kits have hinged front end s so the wiring loom needs to be re routed and extended.
The 250 California has a fixed front so the wiring just needs a small modification.
Thanks for clearing that up!
 
I see where the confusion is now 😂
Yeah mines a tribute 507 so clamshell. Wiring has to go backwards and then to the front. Pirans doing a 507 hence mentioning the way that I've done it
 
I used 16.5a 7 core trailer cable (recommended by Dan).....3 for headlight, 2 for parking light and 2 for indicator. Also ran a 2 core for spot lights
So is that a common earth for all the circuits? I noticed that you can get 7 core 16.5amp with one 25 amp .
 
In a 7-core the white wire is the earth. Usually the thickest of the 7.

Tony.
 
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