Rebody Another 507 build
- Thread starter Piran
- Start date
I got a pair of these which directed it down below the bodywork@Piran what did you do about exhaust tailpipe? I've currently got a flap of sheet steel directing the exhaust away from the bodywork but I'm sure that won't be MOTable.
Photo of what you did would be great
Simply ETC70 Exhaust Trim, 44-66 mm https://amzn.eu/d/3QlnrEe
Exhaust tips
Wonder if I can find something like that for mine. I don't have twin tail pipes. Got one big oval one. Maybe the big one if I whack it with a mallet.
Dxbolton
Zorg Guru (II)
I used a sheet of steel like yourself to extend the pipes past the bodywork and it’s fine for mot.@Piran what did you do about exhaust tailpipe? I've currently got a flap of sheet steel directing the exhaust away from the bodywork but I'm sure that won't be MOTable.
Photo of what you did would be great
I will get a stainless system fitted soon
Backing up I thought I'd mention the door handle fitting. Using the dimensions provided, I extended the hole in the existing door:
Then tape on the template (the square on the template should measure exactly 100mm so you can check scaling - I found printing actual size it came out perfectly:
I was a bit tight on the cut and being an early version the rivets had cap heads rather than countersunk so there's a few bits where I had to file a bit more. Also on my doors the fibreglass at the wide end was very thick so in order to get the spreader plate in I had to grind out a recess for it :
Fits in nicely, I had a cut off bolt at the broad end but have now been supplied a slightly longer bolt with an allen key head so that it can all be removed with the door skin in situ:
I looped a bit of string through the loop on the cable. Fastened the widget to the door release arm (sorry no photo) then attached the door skin to the existing door. The string allowed me to pull the cable through to where it was needed then I removed the string and by touch hooked the cable over the widget on the door. That's it:
Notes:
The handle is a two stage activation press the button (near the front works best) and the handle pops out - it will not return until you fully open the door - pull the handle to release the door. If the cable is a bit loose on releasing the handle won't return to fully closed.
Do it with the windows up
Don't finally fix the skin into place until you have the position of the widget in the right place, it's much easier to adjut with the skin off.
If the cable is too tight then the door will work first time but it won't go back fully and then you can't open it again - including with the interior handle.
If the cable is too loose then the door won't open on the new handle but will open on the interior handle.
You can check by manually closing the latch with your finger or a scredriver shaft without actually closing the door, give it a good few goes as mine worked for the first 10 times then stopped as the cable bedded in and then needed adjusing.
Other than that it was reasonably straight forward. @argy has provided extra templates for drilling an extra hole in the old door to give access to the the second bolt holding the handle in, but I haven't drilled this yet.
Then tape on the template (the square on the template should measure exactly 100mm so you can check scaling - I found printing actual size it came out perfectly:
I was a bit tight on the cut and being an early version the rivets had cap heads rather than countersunk so there's a few bits where I had to file a bit more. Also on my doors the fibreglass at the wide end was very thick so in order to get the spreader plate in I had to grind out a recess for it :
Fits in nicely, I had a cut off bolt at the broad end but have now been supplied a slightly longer bolt with an allen key head so that it can all be removed with the door skin in situ:
I looped a bit of string through the loop on the cable. Fastened the widget to the door release arm (sorry no photo) then attached the door skin to the existing door. The string allowed me to pull the cable through to where it was needed then I removed the string and by touch hooked the cable over the widget on the door. That's it:
Notes:
The handle is a two stage activation press the button (near the front works best) and the handle pops out - it will not return until you fully open the door - pull the handle to release the door. If the cable is a bit loose on releasing the handle won't return to fully closed.
Do it with the windows up
Don't finally fix the skin into place until you have the position of the widget in the right place, it's much easier to adjut with the skin off.
If the cable is too tight then the door will work first time but it won't go back fully and then you can't open it again - including with the interior handle.
If the cable is too loose then the door won't open on the new handle but will open on the interior handle.
You can check by manually closing the latch with your finger or a scredriver shaft without actually closing the door, give it a good few goes as mine worked for the first 10 times then stopped as the cable bedded in and then needed adjusing.
Other than that it was reasonably straight forward. @argy has provided extra templates for drilling an extra hole in the old door to give access to the the second bolt holding the handle in, but I haven't drilled this yet.
Couple of questions....
Can you see anything out of those wing mirrors? I have similar size ones to go on my doors and from trial fitting I fear they will be useless.
Did you bolt your rear fog and reversing lights through the GRP? If so do they shake about?
The wing mirrors are fine - they're the same size as my Herald ones, being on the wings you might get a better view though. Yes the lights are bolted through the grp, I'm afraid I don't know if they shake but they're still solid after nearly 600 miles and they got me through the MOT.
Well fixed the broken mirror with a convex lens and the view is much better. Unfortunately the reverse light fills with water I think this caused the sidelights fuse (33) to blow and the sidelights on that side are now out.
I suspect the reverse light filling with water is a separate issue.
I've replaced the fuse but the lights are still not working which is frustrating.
I think this caused the sidelights fuse (33) to blow and the sidelights on that side are now out.I suspect the reverse light filling with water is a separate issue.
I've replaced the fuse but the lights are still not working which is frustrating.
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oh and it looks like it had the wrong fuse in - I believe it should have had a 10amp fuse, but the popped one I took out was 20amp !
I hope the extra current hasn't damaged the switch or parking module (I think that's what the lights go through)
I might have to link the left and right sidelights on the same circuit just to get the car going until I get a chance to dig further
I hope the extra current hasn't damaged the switch or parking module (I think that's what the lights go through)
I might have to link the left and right sidelights on the same circuit just to get the car going until I get a chance to dig further
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Thanks, I think Grassbank conversions have done a lovely job with those
Your fog light looks like my one from a dsitance. Does it have the cable going through the hollow fixing 'bolt'? If so did you fill the hole with silicone sealant (or similar)?Well fixed the broken mirror with a convex lens and the view is much better. Unfortunately the reverse light fills with water
I suspect the reverse light filling with water is a separate issue.
I've replaced the fuse but the lights are still not working which is frustrating.
Yes it does and no I didn't, funnily the fog light on the other side is fine.
I used this foglight. Hella part No. "2NE 002 985-001"and the matching reversing light. The lens has a little notch in the middle of the bottom edge that acts as a drain hole. I fitted mine upside down, same as you did so just needed to make sure that the notch went the other way - ie on the bottom.
Yours aren't the same as mine, then, as mine have no 'notch' in the lenses. Mine have a rubber gasket between the lens and the 'shroud'. Glass plain lens. The only way water can get into mine is either through the cable hole or possibly through where the adjustable 'knuckle joint' is. I have made some rubber washers up for the knuckle joint clamp. These are mine which are designed to 'hang down' which look (from a distance) the same
as @Piran.
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I have a Bentleys book in front of me. How did you wire your rear fog/ reversing lights? Did you just take one pair from each rea light cluster wiring for each.....ie did you use one pair from one of the original reversing lights and same for the fog?
What year is your Z3?
It's a 98 and I used the original wires for each side, so drivers side is working but passenger side not.
Also the fuse for that side was the wrong one and still popped so there was a lot more current going through the circuit than there should have been
Also the fuse for that side was the wrong one and still popped so there was a lot more current going through the circuit than there should have been
I can't recall exactly what all reasons were as to my wiring for the Kobra but as I wired it (a 2001 2.2) I found that it wasn't always straightforward.
Attached is a set of diags created by me which may or may not help. Especially note that the reversing lights work on one side but an extension needed to serve the other side.
Dave
Attached is a set of diags created by me which may or may not help. Especially note that the reversing lights work on one side but an extension needed to serve the other side.
Dave