Thanks, it's all been working for the last 1500 miles, but possibly water got in somewhere last week and the passenger side lights stopped working.
Rebody Another 507 build
- Thread starter Piran
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That is the understatement of the century IME. Cars' wiring is not just 12v and earth, even in the old Z3. Of course it IS but it isn't. A liberal mix of electronics and 'modules' makes it a cross between very simple and extremely complicated IMO.
I have learned that many of the 'circuits' only provide a 'signal' to a module. The 'modules', via relays, do all the 'work'. And all the modules are electronic so have a myriad of voltages.
Car wiring is just stupid!
Oh and I never fitted fogs so can't comment accurately. My fogs are not those chrome dangley things either. I went for reflectors with inbuilt LEDs. Keep things neat, simple and minimum MOT std.
Yes, my worry is that because the wrong fuse had been put in, whatever caused the sidelight circuit to blow has damaged the relay/control box or another part of the circuit so rather than a max of 20amps it took 20. I need to find which relays and control boxes are on the high power side of the circuitThat is the understatement of the century IME. Cars' wiring is not just 12v and earth, even in the old Z3. Of course it IS but it isn't. A liberal mix of electronics and 'modules' makes it a cross between very simple and extremely complicated IMO.
I have learned that many of the 'circuits' only provide a 'signal' to a module. The 'modules', via relays, do all the 'work'. And all the modules are electronic so have a myriad of voltages.
Car wiring is just stupid!
What kind of reflector? Picture or link to supplier? Thanks
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Remember that the 'lights' are on a myriad of fuses. I found at least half a dozen in the bentley's pages. I think I would check every fuse in the car.
I wouldn't get too hung up on the incorrect amperage size being in 33. It could be as simple as someone in the past didn't have a spare 10 amp but did have a spare 20 amp then forgot to change it back.
If you had a dead short, it could quite easily have blown every bulb on that circuit. It doesn't take much to blow an incandescent bulb.
If your fuse(s) have blown due to moisture, you will have had a dead short. That will blow any size fuse. Fuses are there to protect the wiring from setting alight, nothing else really.
Like these. Picture of how they look on car included. I think they do rectangular ones also.
Attachments
LOL, well after all that ... The front side light was a dodgy spade connector and the rear light was a problem with the Volvo lights not holding the bulb very well. Complete coincidence that they were on the same side and went at the same time ...
I posted a few months ago about those Volvo lights not holding the bulb. I had to squeeze my bulb holders with pliars to make the holder tighter.
Damn those light fittings ! I originally had land rover lights on my Kobra but they were cheap for a reason.
I failed an MOT because front indicator not working. Cheap connection! Nice tester gave me ten mins to find this out and fix it. Still annoyed at a Fail/Pass tho.
Then replaced those lights with metal lucas ones and been ok since.
The trials and tribulations of car wiring
I failed an MOT because front indicator not working. Cheap connection! Nice tester gave me ten mins to find this out and fix it. Still annoyed at a Fail/Pass tho.
Then replaced those lights with metal lucas ones and been ok since.
The trials and tribulations of car wiring
Drove down to Bournemouth yesterday, which was nice. Pulled into the drive and bottomed out the car 
, when I left same thing but no obvious damage (however it was dark) but then I noticed: fuel gauge now only works occasionally - it will drop to empty but if I touch the brakes it comes back on, temperature gauge does nothing and the trip computer/clock is blank 
, when I left same thing but no obvious damage (however it was dark) but then I noticed: fuel gauge now only works occasionally - it will drop to empty but if I touch the brakes it comes back on, temperature gauge does nothing and the trip computer/clock is blank
Most wires run front to rear inside the car under the carpet. I can't think of what 'botttoming out' would do to electrics. Unless your rebody left dangly wires front or rear? Snagged a common earth wire somewhere? Or maybe it's just a coincidence and the faulty gauges have nothing to do with the bottoming out. Other than making you more observant.
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- Dec 8, 2011
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What part of the car bottomed out.
Fuse 46 protects the VIOLET / YELLOW wires that go to...
Instrument Cluster (Pin 16 on the blue plug [X17])
On-Board Computer (BC Low)
Brake Light Switch
Cruise Control Module
Cruise Control Switch
Outside Temperature Gauge (M Only)
Oil Temperature Gauge (M Only)
It is live when the key is in position 1, 2 or 3, but not 0.
Fuse 46 protects the VIOLET / YELLOW wires that go to...
Instrument Cluster (Pin 16 on the blue plug [X17])
On-Board Computer (BC Low)
Brake Light Switch
Cruise Control Module
Cruise Control Switch
Outside Temperature Gauge (M Only)
Oil Temperature Gauge (M Only)
It is live when the key is in position 1, 2 or 3, but not 0.
Brilliant, thank you that's really helpful.