Believe me, it has been black magic for me back then when I started to learn about these ...I wish I wasn't so dim, haven't a clue what this means
TestO Datalogger - what do you think?
- Thread starter Pingu
- Start date
I hope you can do a series of 'TestO for dummies' on Youtube. It is actually hard to get easy to understand step by step information on these programs. Someone could have a $ positive channel if they did it properly.
Good idea, I've already done some and they can be found from: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCG5BwMqVu77Q3d7LX0c_qKA
I'm not sure if there's anything for dummies but basic usage is quite simple actually. I have some feature requests waiting for implementation. Would like to devote more time for TestO but time is currently the missing ingredient.. as always
@pheno . Thanks for creating Testo and giving great user support. I have found the app to be a great help and it has not been to difficult for this 50'something year old to work through, set up and get meaningful information.
I'll look into the serial feed as I want to set up a monitoring laptop for mass air flow and engine load etc to get a base line before doing any modification to the engine.
I'll look into the serial feed as I want to set up a monitoring laptop for mass air flow and engine load etc to get a base line before doing any modification to the engine.
Thanks, always heartwarming to hear positive feedback and of course gives more motivation to go on enhancing the software.
Yes, in my opinion 'Serial' is the game changer as you'll get over 10 data points in one reply (~100-150ms) compared to only 1 with Ediabas jobs. But as said amount of 'Serial' is limited and I've added the ones important for the engine operations.
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2011
- Points
- 145
Some interesting results (grab your anorak )...
First of all, running temperatures. It has been hot today (28°C)
Times are in minutes. I drove for a short while and dropped the missus off at work and left the car idling for around 90 seconds (07:22 - 09:05). Went for a quick blast until about 17:02. Slowed down to cool the car until I got home at 24:27. Sat idling until 26:15, then switched off.
Points to note from the graphs:
1. Intake Temp: Is fairly stable when the car is moving, but increases dramatically when the car is slowed down or stopped. The intake temp never dropped, so the key is to not allow it to rise in the first place.
2. Oil Temp: The magic 60°C mark is reached after around 7 minutes of very steady driving (<3,000rpm). After that the oil temp continues to rise even if the car is idling. The peak temp when the engine is running is about 110°C, but increases to 115°C immediately the engine is switched off.
3. Coolant temp: The coolant was fully warmed up after around 3 minutes of steady driving (<3,000rpm). The temp remained steady at 79°C until the engine was left to idle and then the temp increased and continued to increase after I started the blast to almost 90°C. It then started to cool. There is obviously a lag between the extra air going through the radiator and the coolant being cooled. As the car was driven harder, the temp went varied by around 8°C (83°C to 91°C). At the end of the blast, the temp dropped back to 83°C, but rose again as the air flow through the radiator reduced. When I sat idling at the end of the run, the temp dropped to around 85°C. The coolant temp increased after the engine was switched off.
4. Conclusions:
a. It's very hard to reduce intake temp once it has risen.
b. Switching off or idling INCREASES the temps
Next, the cool-down graphs...
The x-axis is the time of day. The engine was switched-off at just after 1PM. Just look at how long it took for things to cool down.
Points to note from the graphs:
1. Intake temp: It rose to 64°C before taking nearly 4 hours to drop to its "switch-off temp".
2. Oil temp: It rose to 115°C before taking 15 minutes to return to its "switch-off temp". It took 30 minutes before it had dropped to a similar temp to the coolant. The temp was 60°C more than 3 hours after switch-off.
3. Coolant temp: It rose to 91°C before taking 30 minutes to drop to its "switch-off temp". The temp was 60°C more than 3 hours after switch-off.
4. Conclusions:
a. Intake temp rises very quickly after switch-off and takes a long time to drop.
b. Oil and coolant temps increase after switch-off and take 15 and 30 minutes respectively to return to their "switch-off temps".
c. Oil and coolant remain very hot for many hours after switch-off.
Homework:
I need to do a lot of work to prevent the intake temperature from rising so high - hot air is less dense and has fewer oxygen molecules in each cubic metre. The more oxygen molecules going into your engine, the more fuel that can be burned, and the bigger the bang.
)...First of all, running temperatures. It has been hot today (28°C)
Times are in minutes. I drove for a short while and dropped the missus off at work and left the car idling for around 90 seconds (07:22 - 09:05). Went for a quick blast until about 17:02. Slowed down to cool the car until I got home at 24:27. Sat idling until 26:15, then switched off.
Points to note from the graphs:
1. Intake Temp: Is fairly stable when the car is moving, but increases dramatically when the car is slowed down or stopped. The intake temp never dropped, so the key is to not allow it to rise in the first place.
2. Oil Temp: The magic 60°C mark is reached after around 7 minutes of very steady driving (<3,000rpm). After that the oil temp continues to rise even if the car is idling. The peak temp when the engine is running is about 110°C, but increases to 115°C immediately the engine is switched off.
3. Coolant temp: The coolant was fully warmed up after around 3 minutes of steady driving (<3,000rpm). The temp remained steady at 79°C until the engine was left to idle and then the temp increased and continued to increase after I started the blast to almost 90°C. It then started to cool. There is obviously a lag between the extra air going through the radiator and the coolant being cooled. As the car was driven harder, the temp went varied by around 8°C (83°C to 91°C). At the end of the blast, the temp dropped back to 83°C, but rose again as the air flow through the radiator reduced. When I sat idling at the end of the run, the temp dropped to around 85°C. The coolant temp increased after the engine was switched off.
4. Conclusions:
a. It's very hard to reduce intake temp once it has risen.
b. Switching off or idling INCREASES the temps
Next, the cool-down graphs...
The x-axis is the time of day. The engine was switched-off at just after 1PM. Just look at how long it took for things to cool down.
Points to note from the graphs:
1. Intake temp: It rose to 64°C before taking nearly 4 hours to drop to its "switch-off temp".
2. Oil temp: It rose to 115°C before taking 15 minutes to return to its "switch-off temp". It took 30 minutes before it had dropped to a similar temp to the coolant. The temp was 60°C more than 3 hours after switch-off.
3. Coolant temp: It rose to 91°C before taking 30 minutes to drop to its "switch-off temp". The temp was 60°C more than 3 hours after switch-off.
4. Conclusions:
a. Intake temp rises very quickly after switch-off and takes a long time to drop.
b. Oil and coolant temps increase after switch-off and take 15 and 30 minutes respectively to return to their "switch-off temps".
c. Oil and coolant remain very hot for many hours after switch-off.
Homework:
I need to do a lot of work to prevent the intake temperature from rising so high - hot air is less dense and has fewer oxygen molecules in each cubic metre. The more oxygen molecules going into your engine, the more fuel that can be burned, and the bigger the bang
.
There is quite a lot of zedders complaining about the air intake system on the zeds. When they put those paper cones in the engine bay they must put a separating dam so it doesn't take warm air from the engine. I have seen a couple of people that have placed pipework from the fog light area ducting up into the air intake box. On the surface that seems like a great idea.
That's really interesting, I like how you can use it to test a Vanos, I might be picking your brains more about that.
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2011
- Points
- 145
The M Roadster already has the intake in the brake duct. I think the problem is not where the air goes in, but the lack of insulation around the entire induction side of the engine.
At the moment, the only insulation is a thin piece of aluminium to protect the air filter...
It's going to be quite a large task, but I'm going to investigate insulating the plenum chamber, the throttle tubes, the MAF and the air filter box.
The good news is that I have a baseline and will be able to see if there is any improvement
Interesting information and useful for testing if your vanos is functioning correctly. Thanks for taking the time to share.
I always wondered why these engines appear to take an age to cool down after a run, I recall another S50 owner asking me is it normal for these engines to be so hot, certainly warm enough to keep your mug of coffee warm.
I always wondered why these engines appear to take an age to cool down after a run, I recall another S50 owner asking me is it normal for these engines to be so hot, certainly warm enough to keep your mug of coffee warm.
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2011
- Points
- 145
Ta. I'll download the latest ASAP. I've been doing quite a bit with it recently and have been using it to test a modification. More updates later
.
Trying to drive the same test route at the same throttle settings is the trick to getting reliable test results - not easy. It doesn't help when the weather is different temperatures each day.
A quick video to show the potential...
.Trying to drive the same test route at the same throttle settings is the trick to getting reliable test results - not easy. It doesn't help when the weather is different temperatures each day.
A quick video to show the potential...
@Pingu Your video is looking good. You have motivated me to finally set up a tablet for "on the road testing" of a few minor modifications. The first set of tests will be a comparison between Premium 95 and Premium 98 fuel. Small steps to see if I'm doing the testing right and it will also give me two fuel base lines.
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2011
- Points
- 145
Perhaps this will motivate you and others to the power of dataloggers...
I did a 0-60 test (deliberately badly, by the way). The data shows areas for improvement. If anyone can spot any other areas, please add them to the list
.1. The starting RPM was only about 1500rpm - it should be around 4000rpm
2. It took 3.5 seconds to press the throttle to only 78% - it should take about 0.2 seconds to get to 100%
3. I lifted off the throttle completely on the gear change - you should only lift off enough - "enough" is one of the true skills that only the top drivers have.
4. The 0-60mph was measured at 6.4 seconds - there will be a maximum error of around 0.3 seconds as the data sample rate is only 0.15 seconds, but 6.1 is still nowhere near 5.4
5. I didn't press the throttle hard enough to get full throttle until I felt the carpet - you should try to push the throttle pedal through the bulkhead to get full throttle.
6. The throttle cable needs adjustment as even full throttle on the pedal is only 97% on the throttle body - this may be an error in the throttle potentiometer adjustment, but it needs checking.
That's amazing and something that the boys looking to improve their times at SantaPod should be looking into to cut their shift times and figure out the optimal shift points!! JIM
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2011
- Points
- 145
My first attempt at improvement was 5.4 seconds. I had quite a bit of wheelspin. The speed shows 21mph, but I was barely moving. After controlling the wheelspin I did a poor gear change and had a lovely burning clutch smell 
but then...
I got more things right than wrong. 0-60 mph = 5.2 seconds
but then...
I got more things right than wrong. 0-60 mph = 5.2 seconds
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2016
- Points
- 231
- Model of Z
- Z3M Imola and Z4 (e89)
If it starts and runs OK I'm happy.
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2011
- Points
- 145
If only "OK" was good enough for me, I'd be a happy bunnyIf it starts and runs OK I'm happy.