Are you using the distance plate that bolts on the front of the engine when tightening the cams? This is what sets the distance of the vanos system and ultimately the cam timing.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VDpMHIaxuJU
(SOLVED) Lifter tick?
- Thread starter Dre0415
- Start date
This is a single vanos engine not dual vanos so that is not needed. My engine is the m52b28 not the m52tu
Hey guys another update, I feel like this car just doesn't want to be fixed everytime I take it back apart something else breaks. Yesterday I broke one of the studs that holds the vanos unit to the head and then my safety pin fell out of the upper timing chain tensioner. The tensioner flew out hit the ground and shattered. So unfortunately I gotta wait for more parts and I need to figure out how to replace that stud.
Does anyone know how that upper chain tensioner works I'm worried that the pieces that flew out of it may have landed in the engine. Is it just a hydralic piston? With 2 parts? Or is there some sort of spring in it? I didn't see a spring fly out anywhere.
Does anyone know how that upper chain tensioner works I'm worried that the pieces that flew out of it may have landed in the engine. Is it just a hydralic piston? With 2 parts? Or is there some sort of spring in it? I didn't see a spring fly out anywhere.
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- Joined
- Dec 8, 2011
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- 145
The tensioner in the M (which looks different) doesn't have any springs. Oil pressure pushes on the piston, which pushes the tensioner against the chain.
It looks like yours operates in the same way.
Pressurised oil will be pushed into the brass tube and push the tensioner. You should be able to test it by blowing into the brass tube.
It looks like yours operates in the same way.
Pressurised oil will be pushed into the brass tube and push the tensioner. You should be able to test it by blowing into the brass tube.
I belive your thinking of the lower timing chain tensioner. The s52 in the m series also uses this part to apply upper tension on the secondary chain which operates the intake camshaft.
Yes the s52 lower timing chain tensioner is hydraulically actuated while the m52 lower timing chain tensioner is spring actuated.
I belive your thinking of this part.
To me it also looks like the upper tensioner on my car is hydraulically actuated but I'm not 100%. I definitely think your right about that brass tube though.
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2011
- Points
- 145
Yes, that's what the M tensioner looks like.
The top of the M chain is just a guide. the only tension comes from that side tensioner.
Thinking about it a little more, it seems strange to have a tensioner like yours that is pushing the chain away from the sprockets. I would have expected the upper tensioner to pull the chain downwards, or to push it from above. BMW know what they are doing - it just seems strange to me.
The one in my M52TU has a spring. It has to be depressed and pinned when installing the chain.
Guys, I finally fixed this damn car the new tensioner came in today and I threw it together using Dr. Vanos guide. If you ever time a m52 DO NOT WATCH A YOUTUBE VIDEO ON IT they all suck. I can confirm ticking is gone after doing bmws lifter bleed procedure.
First drive
youtube.com
First drive
z3 back in action after engine overhaul
Brilliant thread and well done, also great support from the forum. I get 1 ticking lifter, but only after a really tight track session with lots of 2nd/ 3rd gear driving at the top of the rev band. So far a few mi uses to cool down or some normal driving it sorts itself out.
If any of you guys need to do this job because you have a ticking noise in the top end of the engine I highly recommend starting off with a leak down test. I am pretty convinced that my bent valves were actually the main cause of the ticking noise. Even with the bent valves my engine ran super smooth no misfires no nothing. It also had great compression. I've learned that a compression test will only tell you if the car will run good or not. It will not tell you if you have internal damage always. Unless you have really really bad damage it's not always going to be helpful especially when diagnosing valve train issues. I've also learned that valve leakage is fairly normal on these cars. Anyone who tells you that the valves need to seal 100% of the air is just wrong don't waste your time trying to get a perfect seal it will never happen without crazy machine tools. These aren't race engines. If anyone is wondering cheap ebay lifters do work pretty well so far I'm using them right now and I can't hear a single tick. I will admit on first startup they did tick pretty loud but not nearly as loud as the original issue. After doing bmws bleed procedure holding rpms at 3k for around 5mins the ticking got quieter and quieter I was in disbelief when it went away I did not think it was going to actually fix it but it did.
More info: if anyone does this job and struggles with p1519 stuck vanos code just take your time timing the engine and redo it. You probably either missed a tooth on one of the gears or did something improperly. If you didn't have the code before the disassembly it is 100% human error. The vanos needs to be perfectly aligned so it can advance and retard fully. Dr. Vanos has a extensive guide on what to look for if you get this code. Timing this engine is really easy but I will say one thing you definitely should be using is the timing blocks and crank locking pin. With these tools it's pretty much impossible to time it so bad that internal damage can occur.
More info: if anyone does this job and struggles with p1519 stuck vanos code just take your time timing the engine and redo it. You probably either missed a tooth on one of the gears or did something improperly. If you didn't have the code before the disassembly it is 100% human error. The vanos needs to be perfectly aligned so it can advance and retard fully. Dr. Vanos has a extensive guide on what to look for if you get this code. Timing this engine is really easy but I will say one thing you definitely should be using is the timing blocks and crank locking pin. With these tools it's pretty much impossible to time it so bad that internal damage can occur.
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Interesting thread and nice to see it all documented. Well done with your perseverance now go out and enjoy her.
Well done, glad you fixed it.
I once took one of GM’s 60 degree V6 apart for a quick refresh, ran perfectly, though when I took the main caps off I could see by eye the crank was bent.
No it was incredibly badly built in the first place Tony, the valve diameters varied by almost 1.5mm. The seats varied from 1mm width to 4mm. Low mileage so it came out the factory like that.
I once took one of GM’s 60 degree V6 apart for a quick refresh, ran perfectly, though when I took the main caps off I could see by eye the crank was bent.
Really enjoyed reading that, thanks for taking the time to share.