Looks like a new block, great job!
(SOLVED) Lifter tick?
- Thread starter Dre0415
- Start date
I did do that exact bleeding procedure but unfortunately I think my lifters were far gone as that procedure made 0 difference. Either way I think this work needed to be done because of that broken bolt but I'm also super happy to clean all the carbon off so it runs like brand new.
You sure made a nice job on the block.
Tony.
Tony.
You said you left them out for a bit, any dampness at all can cause internal corrosion. Yes, they should have oil in them, still happens. Always store hydraulic tappets in oil bath.
Also, did you attempt to clean them before you refitted them? Spraying with brake cleaner or the like can cause them to jam. Likewise sticking them in a parts washer.
Always a good idea to stick an oil can in and pressurise before assembly.
Also, did you attempt to clean them before you refitted them? Spraying with brake cleaner or the like can cause them to jam. Likewise sticking them in a parts washer.
Always a good idea to stick an oil can in and pressurise before assembly.
Unfortantely I didnt do that as I only had them out of the car for about 30 mins which is where I think my problems came from. But I defintely learned my lesson on that one. I bought 24 brand new lifters from ebay at about $4 each so im hoping these ones work alright because they are definitely not OEM.
Another update, I just got head back from machine shop and man it's clean. I had to do some touch ups but overall I'm happy. I replaced all 24 valve seals but unfortunately one of the valve keepers launched and I spent about 30 mins looking for it before giving up. So I will have to wait another week before I can put this thing back together. I forgot to take some pictures but everything is going really smooth. Once I get the keepers and put the last 2 springs on I will double check valves are sealing with water again and then I will put it back on the block and button everything up I'm super excited next week I will also have alot more free time to work on this thing so I think in a way this hurdle is forcing me to take my time and not rush projects like I usually do.
Valve "Keepers"? what we call Colletes ? Personally I would test the valve seal with something more vapourising like brake cleaner or Carburettor cleaner. I hope that you get the job done successfully.
Tony.
Tony.
I'll definitely give that a shot. Super bummed out about those keepers though out of 48 of them I lost 1. I learned from my mistake and used a different method to prevent that from happening again.
Don’t use water, as Tony said it’s far too viscous. Alcohol is best, it’ll find leaks easily, and it doesn’t cause rust on the seats.
Personally I’d have just lapped them, though I have a device for that.
To fit the collets.
Clean the stem after insertion.
Small dab of general purpose grease on the retainer side, then a tiny amount of grease on a small flat blade screwdriver.
Press the driver on the collet at the appropriate angle to clear the compressor head, then press to the valve stem, slide the screwdriver up and off.
Repeat.
Release the compressor slowly and you’re done.
The grease prevents the collets ‘firing’ anywhere, even if they dislodge they’ll stay right there.
Wipe off any excess, the rest will dissolve in the oil.
By far the best method of doing it.
Personally I’d have just lapped them, though I have a device for that.
To fit the collets.
Clean the stem after insertion.
Small dab of general purpose grease on the retainer side, then a tiny amount of grease on a small flat blade screwdriver.
Press the driver on the collet at the appropriate angle to clear the compressor head, then press to the valve stem, slide the screwdriver up and off.
Repeat.
Release the compressor slowly and you’re done.
The grease prevents the collets ‘firing’ anywhere, even if they dislodge they’ll stay right there.
Wipe off any excess, the rest will dissolve in the oil.
By far the best method of doing it.
Yeah, unfortunately mine didn't fly off from releasing the compressor it actually flew off from compressing the spring. I believe since these valves haven't been touched in 23 years the colletes were sticking to the spring. So when I compressed the spring the valve began to open. To get the valve unstuck I would turn the block sideways and give the valve a firm push with my thumbs pushing the valve back closed. Which then launched the colletes off. To prevent this I instead would compress the spring a very very small amount just enough where the valve was just barley open and then press it back in with my thumbs as before I compeessed it alot which launched them in to my very very "clean" garage. After that I compressed it all the way and removed the collets as there would be no more spring tension. I was able to find 1 of the 2 colletes that flew in the garage but I still cannot find the other one which is super sad because I really wanted to finish this project today.
So I tested the valves again by putting gasoline into each ports and now they all seem to be leaking just a little. Should I be concerned? I really don't want to bring it back to the machine shop to be checked again. They seemed perfectly fine when using water. It just barley comes out of the valves with gasoline.
Have the valves been lapped in using valve grinding paste or not? If not then you're likely to get a light weep of gas past the valve seat. The problem is, that if gas gets through the closed valve exhaust gas under pressure will too, starting to burn the seat away prematurely. Better to rectify it before refitting the head.
Tony.
Tony.
No I have not lapped the valves as I don't have the tools or the know how to do it. I think I'm going to take it to another shop possibly and have them take a look and see if they can't get it fixed up for me.
The tools you need are not very inexpensive.
And the job itself is easy if time consuming, but essential for a proper engine rebuild.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=av7FyVQW8zU
You just need the valves out of the head, again.
Tony.
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And the job itself is easy if time consuming, but essential for a proper engine rebuild.
You just need the valves out of the head, again.
Tony.
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It’s a very satisfying job also, your lucky you still have engineering shops in the states it’s a lost art in the UK unfortunately.
The exhaust valves always more pitted as they deal with hot gasses passing through them, and they're harder steel too. I spent many "happy" hours lapping valves in as an apprentice agricultural engineer.
But it was a good lesson well learned.
Tony.
But it was a good lesson well learned.Tony.
For future info, to release the Keepers/collets, put a socket on top of the retainer and tap GENTLY but sharply with a small hammer. This releases them from the retainer so they come out easily with the compressor.
Some people give the socket a damn good smack and the collets pop out. Please don’t do that. Not only is it a quick way to lose them, you can damage the stem, the collet and the retainer.
Did the valve paste suppliers suggest Engineers Blue, also called Prussian Blue?
It’s an indicator paste that shows how well the surfaces mate. It’s a quick way to see how well the valve seats after lapping. To do it properly though it’s actually better to use it Before. It then shows how bad the seat is. Time consuming to use the wrong paste, then have to go back and do it again.
You aren’t looking for an even blue circle, really clean spots are high spots, blue dots/marks are low spots.
Plenty of YouTube vids on how to use it properly. It’s wonderful stuff, you only use a tiny amount or you just make a mess. Don’t get it on your clothes.
Some people give the socket a damn good smack and the collets pop out. Please don’t do that. Not only is it a quick way to lose them, you can damage the stem, the collet and the retainer.
Did the valve paste suppliers suggest Engineers Blue, also called Prussian Blue?
It’s an indicator paste that shows how well the surfaces mate. It’s a quick way to see how well the valve seats after lapping. To do it properly though it’s actually better to use it Before. It then shows how bad the seat is. Time consuming to use the wrong paste, then have to go back and do it again.
You aren’t looking for an even blue circle, really clean spots are high spots, blue dots/marks are low spots.
Plenty of YouTube vids on how to use it properly. It’s wonderful stuff, you only use a tiny amount or you just make a mess. Don’t get it on your clothes.
Hey guys, unfortunately some bad/good news. The bad news is I found out that both exhaust valves were bent on cylinder 6. I belive the reason for this is because when I was rotating the cams I still had the engine at top dead center. Top dead center on a inline 6 means cylinders 1 and 6 are all the way up. Unfortunately I must of been rotating the exhaust cam in the direction where it was opening the valves and had a little too much leverage bending the valves. Good news is I noticed valves were bent before throwing engine back together because the valve guides felt insanely tight compared to other cylinders and when flashing a light into the exhaust port you could easily see the light leak through both valves. Fortunately I noticed it before putting it back together so I ordered 2 new exhaust valves and I will throw them in and lap them. I really wanted to get a machine shop to do a valve job but unfortunately it's outside of my budget so I'm just going to make everything work with what I have. The new valves should come this Wednesday and then I'm finally throwing this thing in the car. This constant waiting for parts has been killing me. I'm kinda wishing I just owned an American car now lol. I did get the valves checked at a machine shop and they quickly confirmed they were bent. All other cylinders seen to be good enough so once i get these new valves to seal im sending it. I did learn my lesson though make sure if you do this job and ever need to rotate cams to make sure you turn the crank 40 to 60 degrees off top dead center so none of the pistons are near the top of their stroke. I'm kinda glad it happend because it definitely taught me a lesson on how precious the valves are.
Here's a picture of cylinders 6 with some washer fluid in it. You can clearly see the liquid coming from the port. Also ignore cylinders 4 that one didn't have valve springs in it. So I didn't fill it up.
Here's a picture of cylinders 6 with some washer fluid in it. You can clearly see the liquid coming from the port. Also ignore cylinders 4 that one didn't have valve springs in it. So I didn't fill it up.
Valves that are "necked", ie bent show up when lapping them in as you only get half the seat on the valve touching the seat on the head.
Tony.
Tony.