These valves were so bad you couldn't even lap them. I tried to lap them and there was just too much friction in the guide. Also just from looking at the valve in the cylinder head you could easily tell half of the valve was not touching the seat.
(SOLVED) Lifter tick?
- Thread starter Dre0415
- Start date
It's all good though because I've learned from alot of my mistakes as this is my first time diving this deep into an engine. There's so many little things you have to remember while taking apart an engine and I've learned the valve train is probably the most important as everything is so delicate.
Lucky you caught it, I’ve seen people only find it after firing it up, that kills the guides, then it’s rally expensive.
Take your time, you’ll now be anxious to get it running, if you rush it the chances are you could make another mistake. Double check everything, it calms you down and helps you focus.
I’ve had a few American cars Fiero, Z28, Beretta, the reason some of the engines are ‘under stressed’ as some people put it, is because they’re so badly built. I took an 88Fiero head apart last year, worst valve seats I’ve ever seen in my life.
Take your time, you’ll now be anxious to get it running, if you rush it the chances are you could make another mistake. Double check everything, it calms you down and helps you focus.
I’ve had a few American cars Fiero, Z28, Beretta, the reason some of the engines are ‘under stressed’ as some people put it, is because they’re so badly built. I took an 88Fiero head apart last year, worst valve seats I’ve ever seen in my life.
Probably not helped by years of running on Ethanol added petrol, assuming that it has?
Tony.
It did run with these 2 bent valves for a short period of time. How can I check the guides to make sure they're OK? I'm almost wondering if the ticking noise was coming from the bent valves instead of the lifters. I'm 100% sure it wasn't timing related because the piston has no marks on it as far as I can tell. Im also assuming if timing was off I would have way more bent valves and not just on one cylinder. When I took valve cover off the timing was still correct.
One way I checked was by taking a known good exhaust valve and sliding them into cylinder 6. I noticed that they slid in significantly easier and I also tested if they sealed better which they did. They seemed to move alot smoother and didn't bind like the bent ones.
The ticking most likely came from the valves slightly sticking in the guides, not enough to allow the collets to come out, but, enough to cause a large gap between the cam follower and the cam lobe.
Tony.
Tony.
Thats a great point. Since a bent valve will be shorter in length it will cause a larger valve lash gap which could cause ticking I also think that the valve binding in the guide probably added to the noise aswell. Do you think just replacing the valve and leaving the valve guide will be good enough. I probably ran it like that for 10 to 20 miles maximum. Definitely wasnt long. I heard the best way to check the guides was to put the valve in a little bit and cover the top of the guide with your finger and then remove the valve it should make a pop noise because you are making a vaccum affect in the guide.
Thoroughly clean the affected valve guides and blow dry using compressed air if you have it. Using a bright light inspect the core of the guide for any obvious cracks, burrs or abrasions. If it looks OK, fit a clean, oiled valve into the guide and holding both ends of the valve try to see if there is any "side" play. There will be some slight movement and as long as there is no excessive play then it should be ok.
Tony.
Tony.
I'll definitely do that. One of my buddies actually has the tool to measure valve guide clearances and measure how much movement valve has in the guide I'll definitely bring it to him aswell and we will get them measured out.
Tonight I'm going to be giving the cylinder head and block a very thorough inspection. I wanna make sure no other valves are bent and there's no order damage that I missed. As I don't want to do this job again. I'm super happy I noticed that valve before I put it back together only thing that sucks is I'm now paranoid that something else has damage as a result of that. Ill let you guys know but I will be triple checking everything.
Hey Guys, I just got done measuring the inner diameter of the valve guides. I measured the top of the guide and the bottom of the guide. You can see my specs vs bmw specs below you guys let me know what you think.
Inner Diameter of my Valves
Cylinder 6 Exhast
Valve 11 Lower Inner Diameter: 6.0452 mm
Valve 11 Upper Inner Diameter: 6.0071 mm
Valve 12 Lower Inner Diameter: 6.0325 mm
Valve 12 Upper Inner Diameter : 5.9944 mm
They seem to be all right within the size of the valve stem but I have no idea what the tolerence is for these.
Thanks for any help.
Inner Diameter of my Valves
Cylinder 6 Exhast
Valve 11 Lower Inner Diameter: 6.0452 mm
Valve 11 Upper Inner Diameter: 6.0071 mm
Valve 12 Lower Inner Diameter: 6.0325 mm
Valve 12 Upper Inner Diameter : 5.9944 mm
They seem to be all right within the size of the valve stem but I have no idea what the tolerence is for these.
Thanks for any help.
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I would say they're absolutely fine. Only thing you can measure is the tilt clearance. I assume you would measure this with the valve installed in the guide against the seat then try to move the top of the stem from side to side in the guide.
Tony.
I was going to measure the tilt but unfortunately I do not have the tool to do that. So I'm kinda stuck with what I got. When the new valves come in I'll definitely eyeball the tilt but with what I measured from the guides I can't imagine an excessive amount of tilt. I think the bigger concern will be if the new valves bind at all in the guides which they shouldn't because I did test non bent valves in those guides and they moved alot more free.
Also I gave the head another thorough inspection. I turned the lights off in my garage and shined a flashlight into every exhaust and intake port. There was definitely a couple valves that had just a very very small amount of light leakage but none of them were even close to the bent ones. I might go back and try to give those ones a lapping. But from my understanding on a 100k milage car your basically always going to have a very small amount of leakage which definitely seems to be the case with my car. I believe the engine having some heat in it and the compression of the engine will definitely keep those sealed. Even with those cylinder 6 valves being as bad as they were the car didn't misfire so I can't imagine having problems with microscopic gaps in a few of the valve seats but I will definitely try getting them sealed if I can.
I also gave piston number 6 a really good look to see if it had any damage from coming contact with the piston. But the piston doesn't even have the smallest amount of evidence on it. That's partially proves my original theory of bending them when I was rotating the cam. Take a look below
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Guys, you won't belive it but I got it to run. I think the tick is gone aswell it's kinda hard to tell because the exhaust was so loud but I can't hear it. Once I get the exhaust and cooling systems hooked up I'll let you know. Only ran it for like 30 seconds because I had no coolant on hand.
Take a look below I am so excited.
youtube.com
Take a look below I am so excited.
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- Joined
- Mar 10, 2022
- Points
- 66
- Model of Z
- Z3 3.0 Auto
Friend of mine had same on his 2.8. Loose plug.
Here is a video of the actual first start. I had to get it from my buddy because i was turning it over. Later tonight I'm putting some coolant in it and hooking up the exhaust so I can take it for the first test drive.
View: https://youtu.be/LM9P8I2zXjo
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2011
- Points
- 145
According to BS4500,
6.0H7 is 6.000mm - 6.015mm
6.1H7 is 6.100mm - 6.115mm
6.2H7 is 6.200mm - 6.215mm
Guys, I got the bad news unfortunately I have a check engine light for p1519. Vanos mechanically jammed. I could have sworn I did it correctly as this is like the 4th time I've done this job. I'm assuming either 1 of 2 things happend. 1 when installing the actual vanos unit I skipped one of the teeth on the helical gear when turning exhaust sprocket counter clock wise. Or 2 I some how screwed up putting the gears on. Although I did double check my work. Does anyone know or a good way to test the vanos with the valve cover off to see if it's getting stuck or not turning as much as it should? This isn't the first time I've had this problem. I had this same problem a while back and I just redid the entire timing procedure and it just magically disappeared. I probably also skipped a tooth or something but still I'd like to know if there is a way to test it before throwing everything back together.
I've heard that I can manually rotate the intake cam right and left and the exhaust cam should not move at all. But I have no idea if that's true or not.
This is how I timed it.
1. Install cam locks and crank lock
2. Put exhaust gear on so that the holes are to the left and when tension is applied they're in the middle.
3. Install dummy tensioner check exhaust gear holes are in the middle which they were.
4. Install 2nd chain making sure that it can rotate all the way right and left with holes matching on both gears
5. Install 2mm plate on intake sprocket.
6 . Install spring diaphram with outer diameter facing the cams.
7. Install 4mm plate on intake sprocket
8. Install 3 nuts on intake sprocket
9. Install 4 torx bolts on exhaust sprocket but keep them loose
10. Rotate 2nd chain all the way to right or clockwise.
11. Line vanos sprocket up
12. Turn 2nd chain counter clock wise sucking the vanos unit to the engine
13. Tighten 4 torx bolts on exhaust sprocket
14. Tighten vanos unit to engine
Does anyone see any flaws in my installation process. The only error I see is in step 12 if it didn't catch on first tooth which could be possible
I've heard that I can manually rotate the intake cam right and left and the exhaust cam should not move at all. But I have no idea if that's true or not.
This is how I timed it.
1. Install cam locks and crank lock
2. Put exhaust gear on so that the holes are to the left and when tension is applied they're in the middle.
3. Install dummy tensioner check exhaust gear holes are in the middle which they were.
4. Install 2nd chain making sure that it can rotate all the way right and left with holes matching on both gears
5. Install 2mm plate on intake sprocket.
6 . Install spring diaphram with outer diameter facing the cams.
7. Install 4mm plate on intake sprocket
8. Install 3 nuts on intake sprocket
9. Install 4 torx bolts on exhaust sprocket but keep them loose
10. Rotate 2nd chain all the way to right or clockwise.
11. Line vanos sprocket up
12. Turn 2nd chain counter clock wise sucking the vanos unit to the engine
13. Tighten 4 torx bolts on exhaust sprocket
14. Tighten vanos unit to engine
Does anyone see any flaws in my installation process. The only error I see is in step 12 if it didn't catch on first tooth which could be possible
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