(SOLVED) Lifter tick?

Dre0415

Dedicated Member
American Zeds
Joined
Mar 6, 2022
Points
31
Location
Michigan
Model of Z
E36 Z3 2.8I Manual
Hey guys, I'm new to this forum I recently swapped out the cams on my z3 2.8 for some s52 cams. Everything seemed to go pretty well installation wise. Until I started the engine. I seem to have a pretty bad tick that increases with rpm. I did a compression test and leak down test and those were ok so I know the timing isn't off and I don't get any miss fires car runs really smooth just ticks. Do these lifters commonly just die when you take them out for a bit or did I do something else catastrophicly wrong? I've tried running the car at 3k rpm for a while it doesn't seem to help. So I'm planning on ripping it apart again just looking for some insight.

Thanks for any insight.

SOLUTION
FIX bent valves and put new lifters in.

Steps to take
Before coming straight to the conclusion of bad lifters do the easiest checks first.
1. Spark plugs make sure they're tight they can cause a ticking noise.

2. Check injectors injectors will always make a ticking noise but usually it won't get louder with rpm. Also pretty unlikely but definitely take a look. You can also check water pump believe it or not I've had a water pump on my m52 make a ticking noise. Best way to test is using a screw driver hold screw driver on water pump and then put ear up to screw driver. This method works great for finding the general area of the tick.

3. Perform bmw lifter bleed procedure basically Rev engine to 3k for like 10 mins. If this makes in improvement your definitely looking at a lifter problem. Keep in mind this is usually a temporary solution to a permanent problem unless you let the car sit for a very long time. You probably have a lifter issue.

4. Before ripping the valve cover off take a hour or so to perform a compression test and a leak down test. Try to be very precise with the leak down test. But keep in mind these cars are old and the valves are going to leak a little. You want to look for alot of leakage.

5. If compression test results and leak down test are passed. Now is the time to start looking into lifters. But keep in mind there are many things on the top end that can cause a ticking noise such as chain rattle or slap and vanos rattle although these are pretty unheard of on the m52 engine. It's still possible especially the vanos rattle. Also this guide will work pretty well on m54 m52tu and the s52 they're all pretty much same engines with exception of the vanos changes.

6. The next step would be to try and figure out where the noise is coming from. If it's the front of the engine it could be chain slap or rattle or even a vanos rattle issue also the water pump. If it's anywhere else your looking at a lifter issue. But if your noise is in the front you still cannot rule out lifter tick as there are lifters pretty close to the front of the engine. I will say though usually chain slap and vanos rattle make a more specific noise that's easily diagnosesble.

7. If you are 100% sure it's lifter tick the next steps would be taking the cheap route or the slightly more expensive route but before doing that if you still want to try and diagnose the specific lifter causing your issue take a look at BMWs service bulletin that I posted in this forum post. It will give you an idea of what to do to try and diagnosing the specific lifter. Valve cover needs to come off for this.

8. So now you have 2 options buying a couple of lifters maybe like 4 and replacing all of the ones in the area of the issue and hoping that fixes it but I advise against that since this job is alot of work and you probably won't want to do it again. I recommend biting the bullet and buying all 24 lifters. If that's out of your budget that's OK because ebay lifters work. The ebay lifters are actually what fixed my car and they won't tick its about $80-100 USD for all 24 from ebay. If your a big OEM person and don't want cheap lifters OEM lifters from BMW will cost about $800 USD but if you buy them from the supplier which is INA they are only about $300 USD you can also find those on ebay.

9. If you do this chances are it will fix your issue but please take your time when going to retime your engine no pun intended. It's very easy to mess up. USE DR. VANOS GUIDE I've attached it to this post aswell. Do not use any youtube video you will mess it up ask me how I know.

10. With new lifters when you start up the car it will immediately start ticking so don't immediately get upset. You must do lifter bleeding procedure for these new lifters to fill up. Mine ticked pretty bad on first startup but immediately started to quiet down when doing the procedure.

11. If that worked then your good. If it didn't work your probably looking at a bent valve or you miss diagnosed it for a different issue like vanos rattle or chain slap. Also double check spark plugs are tight doesn't hurt to look at.

I hope this helps someone because when I was trying to fix my tick I couldn't find any good information on what to look for. I just happend to get lucky and found the bent valve all because of a bolt that I broke. If you got questions feel free to message me. I've gotten very very familiar with this engine.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

t-tony

Zorg Expert (II)
Supporter
British Zeds
#ZedShed
Joined
Dec 31, 2013
Points
226
Location
Torksey Lock,Lincoln, England
Model of Z
E89 Z4 23i Auto
Before you do anything, what I would do is run some flush in the engine oil, change the oil and filter adding some Wynns Hydraulic Lifter Concentrate on refilling.

Tony.
 
  • Agree
Reactions: Lee

Dre0415

Dedicated Member
American Zeds
Joined
Mar 6, 2022
Points
31
Location
Michigan
Model of Z
E36 Z3 2.8I Manual
Before you do anything, what I would do is run some flush in the engine oil, change the oil and filter adding some Wynns Hydraulic Lifter Concentrate on refilling.

Tony.
Thanks or you reply, unfortunately I already tried that. I put some thicker oil in from 5w30 to 5w40 and added some Lucas additive. It definitely helped quiet it down but it's definitely still there. Honestly, I'm thinking that the lifter may have gotten clogged from the new cam wearing in and breaking in. But I could be completely wrong.
 

Dre0415

Dedicated Member
American Zeds
Joined
Mar 6, 2022
Points
31
Location
Michigan
Model of Z
E36 Z3 2.8I Manual
Although I did not try the specific additive you mentioned I think it's probably same concept.
 
Last edited:

t-tony

Zorg Expert (II)
Supporter
British Zeds
#ZedShed
Joined
Dec 31, 2013
Points
226
Location
Torksey Lock,Lincoln, England
Model of Z
E89 Z4 23i Auto
Might sound like a silly idea but it's worth checking that all the spark plugs are tight. Recently a new member from the USA hought an ///M model which had a similar issue and he found it was just this.

Tony.
 
  • Agree
Reactions: Lee

Dre0415

Dedicated Member
American Zeds
Joined
Mar 6, 2022
Points
31
Location
Michigan
Model of Z
E36 Z3 2.8I Manual
When I did the compression test I took all of them out and put them back in and made sure they were tight. And honestly I don't think I even took the plugs out when swapping the cams. But I can double check them for sure.

I have a feeling one of the oil passages in the lifter ledge got clogged. As when I had them out I never bothered cleaning them out. In the 2nd image you can see what I'm talking about. I've heard it's pretty common for those to get clogged. I'm assuming with the new cams breaking in little metal shavings got in there. If no oil can flow there is no dampner causing the lifter to tick.

attachment (1).jpeg

attachment.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Lee

Dre0415

Dedicated Member
American Zeds
Joined
Mar 6, 2022
Points
31
Location
Michigan
Model of Z
E36 Z3 2.8I Manual
I think I'm going to just purchase 24 new lifters and give this car a complete engine over haul. Unfortunately one of the long bolts that holds the tensioner snapped on me. So I'm going to be removing the head and giving this engine a complete over haul. New head gasket, head bolts, 24 brand new lifters, and a deep cleaning. I will keep you all updated with my progress. Let me know if there's anything I should watch out for before going this deep. So far I got the intake manifold and valve cover off. Next weekend I hope to get the cams and head completely off.

Also is it easier to disconnect the manifold from the head. Or should I pull the manifold off with the head and just disconnect bottom of manifold from the rest of the exhaust. Not going to lie those manifold bolts look impossible to get to on the z3. Even on regular e36 they look pretty tight. I was also going to do a secondary air pump delete while I'm in there.
 
Last edited:

Bazza

Zorg Guru (IV)
Supporter
British Zeds
The West Country
Joined
Oct 15, 2013
Points
156
Location
Verwood Dorset
Model of Z
2.8 Roadster
Interesting thread, please keep us updated good luck :thumbsup:
 

t-tony

Zorg Expert (II)
Supporter
British Zeds
#ZedShed
Joined
Dec 31, 2013
Points
226
Location
Torksey Lock,Lincoln, England
Model of Z
E89 Z4 23i Auto
I think I'm going to just purchase 24 new lifters and give this car a complete engine over haul. Unfortunately one of the long bolts that holds the tensioner snapped on me. So I'm going to be removing the head and giving this engine a complete over haul. New head gasket, head bolts, 24 brand new lifters, and a deep cleaning. I will keep you all updated with my progress. Let me know if there's anything I should watch out for before going this deep. So far I got the intake manifold and valve cover off. Next weekend I hope to get the cams and head completely off.

Also is it easier to disconnect the manifold from the head. Or should I pull the manifold off with the head and just disconnect bottom of manifold from the rest of the exhaust. Not going to lie those manifold bolts look impossible to get to on the z3. Even on regular e36 they look pretty tight. I was also going to do a secondary air pump delete while I'm in there.
If you need a blanking plate for port on the Cylinder head (secondary air pump) let me know.

Tony.
 

Dre0415

Dedicated Member
American Zeds
Joined
Mar 6, 2022
Points
31
Location
Michigan
Model of Z
E36 Z3 2.8I Manual
If you need a blanking plate for port on the Cylinder head (secondary air pump) let me know.

Tony.
Matter a fact I do. I haven't ordered one yet but I was about to.
 

Dre0415

Dedicated Member
American Zeds
Joined
Mar 6, 2022
Points
31
Location
Michigan
Model of Z
E36 Z3 2.8I Manual
This is how far I am so far. Intake manifold and valve cover only took me about a hour surprisingly I know its going to take me alot longer putting it back together lol. Anyways I plan on doing some more work next weekend when I have more time. I still have alot more work ahead of me. I hope I can save this car I really do. When it comes to timing this thing I will be taking it really slow.

Does anyone have any info on the throttle body cooling lines and if they actually make a significant difference I was planning on just getting rid of them because theyre just in the way of everying and I cant imagine them making a huge performance difference but correct me if im wrong.

1646667998018.png
 
Last edited:

Dre0415

Dedicated Member
American Zeds
Joined
Mar 6, 2022
Points
31
Location
Michigan
Model of Z
E36 Z3 2.8I Manual
Does anyone know if I am able to take the head off without removing the headers? Those headers look like an absolute head ache to remove I was thinking of just disconnecting them from the bottom and pulling them out with the entire head.
 

Dre0415

Dedicated Member
American Zeds
Joined
Mar 6, 2022
Points
31
Location
Michigan
Model of Z
E36 Z3 2.8I Manual
Hey everyone, so far everything is going smoothly. Last night I got the cams out. I drained the coolant and disconnected everything that connects to the head. This evening I plan on removing head bolts and pulling the head out with the exhaust manifold attached. I would've done it last night but unfortunately I was by myself and there is no way in hell I can lift that head alone without a cherry picker which I don't have.

Here's where I'm at.
20220310_211406.jpg
 

Dre0415

Dedicated Member
American Zeds
Joined
Mar 6, 2022
Points
31
Location
Michigan
Model of Z
E36 Z3 2.8I Manual
Good news guys, I got the head off with the exhaust manifold still attached it is way easier to leave it on. Definitely need 2 people to lift it out even without the cams, lifters, and cam trays it was heavy as hell. Good news is I poured water down intake ports and not a single valve is leaking. I'm going to test the exhaust valves later aswell. Pistons definitely could use a cleaning but cylinder walls have a nice clean cross hatch on all 6 of them. I was also able to pull out that broken bolt with ease. I'm super excited to throw this thing back together but I'm double checking the head for warpage and giving everything a thorough inspection. But from everything I can see so far it all looks really really clean for 110k miles.

Does anyone know what the oem head gasket manufacturer is? I was told it was Elring. But the head gasket that was on the car was made by Victor Reinz.

IMG_20220311_175611.jpg
 

Dre0415

Dedicated Member
American Zeds
Joined
Mar 6, 2022
Points
31
Location
Michigan
Model of Z
E36 Z3 2.8I Manual
Here are some more photos. Just liquid tested exhaust valves and they seem to be perfectly fine aswell. Next I'm going to try and find someone with a straight edge to see if the head is warped at all. I doubt it is because this engine has never seen alot of heat but better be safe then sorry.
20220311_180702.jpg
20220311_180649.jpg
20220311_180626.jpg
20220311_180623.jpg
 

Dre0415

Dedicated Member
American Zeds
Joined
Mar 6, 2022
Points
31
Location
Michigan
Model of Z
E36 Z3 2.8I Manual
Hey Guys, After doing some more research in ISTA I found BMWs guide on how to diagnose lifter tick. I have attached a PDF below but the confusing part for me is that BMW does not call them lifters. In alot of their documentation they will refer to them as a tappet bucket or a HVA (Hydralic Valve Adjuster). Anyways in this document BMW details a way of testing them sort of. They also give some insight on what it could be if it wasnt lifter tick but it seems to be alot more unlikely such as the valves being jammed in the valve guides. I found lots of intresting information for diagnosing any of the top end ticking/rattling these motors have. This includes alot of other engines all listed in the pdf.

According to BMW the main cause of this ticking is contaiminated oil they specifcally mention dirt. I believe in my case it was probably metal shavings from the other engine work I did but that besides the point still a great document to look at if you have any of these issues.
 

Attachments

Dre0415

Dedicated Member
American Zeds
Joined
Mar 6, 2022
Points
31
Location
Michigan
Model of Z
E36 Z3 2.8I Manual
Hey guys, more updates I just dropped the head off at the machine shop to get inspected and cleaned. While the head was getting cleaned I got some scotch brite and wd-40 to clean the block and pistons. The before and after is insane the engine almost looks brand new. I was surprised to see how well scotch brite and wd40 worked. Especially with getting the carbon off and the old gasket material that was sticking to the head. Take a look for yourself below.
20220317_131730.jpg
20220317_131725.jpg
20220317_131718.jpg
20220317_131717.jpg
 

Redline

Zorg Expert (I)
British Zeds
Joined
Mar 10, 2015
Points
208
Location
Nuneaton
Model of Z
E89 20i msport
Probably a bit late to ask seeing as you've got so far in the rebuild, but, how long did you run the engine for?
I found on my old Z4 that it could take quite a while (10-15 minutes) for the oil reservoirs in the lifters to fully charge after they've drained when the engine hadn't been run for a month or two. Had just one problem lifter, but, I didn't let that happen after a few occasions after I'd worked out what was happening.
 

t-tony

Zorg Expert (II)
Supporter
British Zeds
#ZedShed
Joined
Dec 31, 2013
Points
226
Location
Torksey Lock,Lincoln, England
Model of Z
E89 Z4 23i Auto
The official BMW way to bleed the lifters is to hold a warm engine at 3,000 rpm for several minutes.
There is a video on YouTube about this.

Tony.
 

Redline

Zorg Expert (I)
British Zeds
Joined
Mar 10, 2015
Points
208
Location
Nuneaton
Model of Z
E89 20i msport
The official BMW way to bleed the lifters is to hold a warm engine at 3,000 rpm for several minutes.
There is a video on YouTube about this.

Tony.
Like they'd know. :whistle:=))
They couldn't even fit a set of wheels on my 330 Tony. Sent it out with all four tyres only 50% inflated.

Tried that and it didn't work. Ran it gently until the oil fully got up to temperature and then within a minute it was sorted.
 
Top