Seemed like a good idea at the time!

IainP

Zorg Guru (II)
British Zeds
Joined
Feb 20, 2019
Points
119
Location
Out of my Tree, North of Perth, Scotland
Model of Z
1.9
I’ll update this whilst I’m on.
I almost have the rear beam ready for painting, it’s really difficult to get that rubberised coating off, which I suppose is really a good thing. I did consider just getting any loose stuff off, but what the hell, May as well do a decent job of it.
I have far too much stuff lying about. Stripped the spare seat base down, needed the little gearboxes for the passenger frame, I’d had to break them off to get the passenger seat out, something had been jammed into them.
Easy enough to swap over.
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Given the corroded state of the seatbelt tensioner, I suspect that may be one of the reasons for the warning lights. I’ll source a spare.
I acquired a pair of wide sill covers quite a while ago, one was ok, one had been lined with fibreglass csm. They’re not structural, it seemed a decent job, so I wasn’t at all bothered. Then I dropped them, whilst trying to put them into the ladder bracket in the roof of the garage and store them out of the way. The good one bent a flange, easy fix. The repaired one hit the edge of my welding bench which punched a hole in it.
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Didn’t take much of a look and I could see the ‘glass was now loose. A quick pull and . . . Oh Dear.

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With bells on. Didn’t take much of a wire brush to reveal pinholes. Those will become gaping holes by the time rust is ground back. I’m pretty sure there won’t be enough metal left to ‘glass over. It’s not the curved/flared areas, those are solid. The temptation to see if I can weld the rear to my current narrow sill is strong. Or, just fold a panel up and butt weld it on, the flanged edge would be the first job for my newly motorised bead roller. Easy, if tedious, to avoid distorting it. I really need a quieter compressor to zap and chill that length of weld though, may be a weekday job when all the neighbours are at work. 1mm steel, fairly easy to bend that up, what the hell, I’ll whip the passenger sill off, see how far away it is, and if it won’t fit, I’ll bend up a repair section. Well two sections really, I only have 1M lengths of sheet steel and 1.5M box section to bend it over.


Ooh, and we’re experiencing a power cut here, a taste of things to come maybe.

Started a cull of all the surplus parts and wheels, with my son now home the garage is nearly impossible to get into.

But wait, there’s more, I completely forgot.
I had the front end Several Feet in the air, not to keep all the neighbours thinking “What the Actual **** is he doing now!” But to find out if you can fit an Eaton M62 ( a supercharger), in place of the air con compressor I don’t have, don’t want and don’t need.
The answer is; yes you can, but only if you want a supercharger shaped ornament as there is no space for the manifolds. I could reverse mount it, but the bracket would be monstrous. And I’d need a new radiator. Getting pipe work to and from an intercooler wouldn’t be much fun in that orientation either. No pics, I couldn’t hold the Eaton and take pics at the same time, not without risking a supercharger shaped dent in my face.
So I’ve sold it, but the desire to buy a physically smaller Aisin AMR500 supercharger is hard to resist. Very hard, because that will fit the space easily.
And yes, I do know there are kits for fitting both to the M44, but I don’t like them.

Lifting the car up, as I’ve been doing, well, a lot recently, is annoying. Really annoying. As I’m going to have the sills off, I’m thinking sill stands. Simpler, and a lot safer, than axle stands. And if I make a set, rather than buying them, I/we could use them for my sons E36 Touring when required. That would mean interchangeable pins. Younger lad is helping me design something in Fusion 360. We’re thinking twin height, that would mean a low height for wheel changes/brakes, higher setting for full underneath access.
I will need to come up with some sort of plug, or bung, for the outer sills to keep it all neat. I expect that may be the most time consuming part requiring several iterations, the rest is just welding.
 
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IainP

Zorg Guru (II)
British Zeds
Joined
Feb 20, 2019
Points
119
Location
Out of my Tree, North of Perth, Scotland
Model of Z
1.9
I have 30 odd wheels for various cars Tom, Swimbo is demanding a cull.
I can’t really complain as her ‘gardening only’ shed is now half full of Z3 and E36. Spent ages today deciding what bits are destined for eBay. There are quite a few things I need, I simply have absolutely no place to put them.
 

Tom Cheesewright

Zorg Guru (I)
Supporter
British Zeds
Joined
May 6, 2020
Points
90
Location
Manchester, UK
Model of Z
Z3
I have 30 odd wheels for various cars Tom, Swimbo is demanding a cull.
I can’t really complain as her ‘gardening only’ shed is now half full of Z3 and E36. Spent ages today deciding what bits are destined for eBay. There are quite a few things I need, I simply have absolutely no place to put them.
I now have two whole cars in pieces, one that needs scrapping and one that needs putting back on the road. Plus enough EV parts to build at least one more car. And it all has to be out of there by 31st Jan - with nowhere to go!
 

IainP

Zorg Guru (II)
British Zeds
Joined
Feb 20, 2019
Points
119
Location
Out of my Tree, North of Perth, Scotland
Model of Z
1.9
My wife would have it all to the scrappy tomorrow if she could 😂

I stuck the OZ’s on tonight to clean the other alloys, oh I really like these, I only have one Center cap, need to scan it and get 3 printed. The caps go for more than I paid for the wheels!
Forgive the crap pics. I really need to get the coil overs made so I can deck it.

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t-tony

Zorg Expert (II)
Supporter
British Zeds
#ZedShed
Joined
Dec 31, 2013
Points
226
Location
Torksey Lock,Lincoln, England
Model of Z
E89 Z4 23i Auto
I like those wheels.:thumbsup:

Tony.
 

IainP

Zorg Guru (II)
British Zeds
Joined
Feb 20, 2019
Points
119
Location
Out of my Tree, North of Perth, Scotland
Model of Z
1.9
So do I, haven’t seen a set in years, a bit more dished than the RC041/2’s I have. They were local and cheap, getting them home in a Smart car was a laugh.
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A weather warning popped up on my phone, so went out and attacked one with some scotchbrite pads while it was dry.
As you do at night in the dark. 🤣
Started to come up really well, the alloy is just bare, no coating, ordering some Ali polish, hopefully see how shiny I can get one at the weekend.
 

IainP

Zorg Guru (II)
British Zeds
Joined
Feb 20, 2019
Points
119
Location
Out of my Tree, North of Perth, Scotland
Model of Z
1.9
EBay global shipping got me a pair of Center caps from the States, just have to find one more. Some major work to make everything as shiny as the caps.
lent my welder to a friend whilst he got his fixed, again. Despite warnings to make sure the torch was tight before he used it, he didn’t. Some serious arcing there, I’m glad I’d sent him off with my old torch and not my new Parweld.
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So I bought a new tig.
No, I’d had my eye on a new one for a while. Stripped the mig down and trued up the torch connector on my sons mini lathe, actually looks much worse than it is, it’s just the stripping it down that’s a pain. I took the opportunity to open it and clean it, then do what I’d been meaning to do for a while, chop the bottle platform off the back. That now folds underneath the welder, which means I can now get it properly underneath my bench. I use medium cylinders, I think they’re about 45kg, so it’s braced for the few times I actually have a bottle on the back and added a strap to compliment the safety chain, complete overkill.
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It’s designed for 15kg reels, but I only use 5k, or the 0.7 stainless reels, so I’m putting storage inside for my spare tips, shrouds and bottle spanners.
 

t-tony

Zorg Expert (II)
Supporter
British Zeds
#ZedShed
Joined
Dec 31, 2013
Points
226
Location
Torksey Lock,Lincoln, England
Model of Z
E89 Z4 23i Auto
Even best mates will not look after your tools like you do Iain. It took me a couple of times to come to that conclusion.

Tony.
 

IainP

Zorg Guru (II)
British Zeds
Joined
Feb 20, 2019
Points
119
Location
Out of my Tree, North of Perth, Scotland
Model of Z
1.9
He’s the only one I lend stuff to Tony.
It’s a 15+ year old Portamig but still welds as good as the day I got it, which is why the new tig is also from Technical Arc in York. As soon as I got a “this welder is rubbish” message he got a “tighten the torch you knob”, or thereabouts, message 😂.
To be fair, he was hugely embarrassed and offered to pay for a new socket, I just told him to buy a decent ****** welder in the first place.
 

IainP

Zorg Guru (II)
British Zeds
Joined
Feb 20, 2019
Points
119
Location
Out of my Tree, North of Perth, Scotland
Model of Z
1.9
Finished mucking about with the welder and tested it, if anyone is looking to replace a Euro torch, I can thoroughly recommend a Parweld pro grip over the generic eBay Binzel types, so much nicer to use.
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If you’re wondering what the chunks of copper are for, you use those for welding in small patches, or pin holes. They take lots of heat out, as well as giving a better earth on pinholes.

So, attacked the sill. It didn’t go well. I’m actually quite seriously p***** off by it, an absolutely beautiful patch up job, far beyond my meagre filler skills. I thought it was just csm on the interior and a little filler on the lower section.
Nope.
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There’s filler over the outside of the top section too. The more I attacked the outside the rustier it looked, there’s simply not enough decent metal to weld, strangely the inside looks fine. Paper thin though, by the time I get to clean steel, I’m nearly at the flange. 😂
If I hadn’t been such a clumsy muppet I’d have fitted it and all would be fine.
I should have just glassed the damn thing back up, but noooo, I had to try and be smart. Prat.
Now I’ll have to buy a bloody new one.

The left sill cleaned up, I’ll get one end back to clean metal easily. The front has a little crack and a thinned area, the 2 yellow bits on the right. I’ll just chop that whole section out.B5FBE234-FC0E-43CD-A114-B74E3E1E57E6.jpeg
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That, at least, IS quite an easy fix.
 

IainP

Zorg Guru (II)
British Zeds
Joined
Feb 20, 2019
Points
119
Location
Out of my Tree, North of Perth, Scotland
Model of Z
1.9
Turned up a pair of pre facelift 2.8 arms for cheap, didn’t really expect much because they looked like s*** in the pictures. The car they came off clearly had money spent on it, new wheel bearings and backplates at some point, new shoes, pads, copper pipes, copper greased fasteners and sliders that hadn’t been sanded, or copper greased.
They even have the rubber sealing plugs still in place.
After attacking them heavily with a screwdriver and a picking hammer they’re solid. Very solid actually, I didn’t expect that at all. There’s one tiny area that might go slightly soft if I keep at it, 50x25mm maybe, but that can be cut out and patched in without any problem, or any warping.
I suspect they’ve been stored outside for some time. Unfortunately the backplates were bent and dented to bits, so not worth saving, calipers seized. Stripped it all down, I’ll rebuild the calipers as spares, I can reuse them. All the rest to recycling.

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I don’t have driveshafts, or a compatible diff for these. The 1.9 arms, braced, with 25mm spacers and studs will work perfectly initially. For as long as I need them actually. I’ll prep these ones to go with the other subframe I have that also has adjustable toe/camber. I can then add a whole rear end in one go, whenever I get both the parts together and the time to do it. No hurry. Contemplating cutting out the BMW reinforcements and replacing them with my own. Brace the damper mount too, I still fancy going full coilover at the rear at some point in the future.
Next day I’m off I need to take these Perth Powdercoating, I’m wondering if his dipping tank would be the best way of cleaning them up with the minimal damage.
 

IainP

Zorg Guru (II)
British Zeds
Joined
Feb 20, 2019
Points
119
Location
Out of my Tree, North of Perth, Scotland
Model of Z
1.9
Ordered a new sill, dumped the box, painted the inside, then found I’d ordered the side I already had. What a knob. So, anyway, ordered another, I’ll fix the damaged one eventually and sell it on.
A cheap m44 ecu arrived, (need a speeduino board) ,as did 6 cylinder coil wiring to allow me to go coil on plug. A new connector will keep things simple. I really like the wiring holder. I can’t think how I can repurpose the original, May need to make something from scratch.
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Finally some decent weekend weather, so the beam and arm got Hammerite primer and a couple coats of paint. I’m not a huge fan of powdercoat. These survived 20 years with one coat of paint, 1 coat of primer and 3 of smooth Hammerite should see the car out.

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The spare wheel carrier is now off, the bolt was never coming out, an angle grinder sorted that, I’ll remake it in stainless and paint the carrier.

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My son commented the rear handling was weird as soon as he got the car, I never got a chance to try it hard. We both assumed bushes. Nope. One rear spring was standard, the other shorter and stiffer. Strange. Why would anyone think that a sensible idea? Even more strange, the ride height was identical side to side. Obviously roll would be different, no wonder my son found the handling inconsistent.

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And yes, those arb links are toast.
Since I have them, I threw on height adjustable platforms and lower springs just to see how much it dropped.
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Whilst I was under there I spotted the tank strap bracket was looking fairly horrific. I think I have a pattern for that somewhere, I made them for my sons e36 only to find he’d bought some originals. Those fuel line ferrules don’t look too clever either, I need to have a look at realoem.

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I have a pair of wide wings to go on, courtesy of spursfaninacoupe, since I’m getting grief for all the stuff lying about, I threw the 2.8 bumper on so I can bin the tatty silver one.
How much wider is an early 2.8 than an m44? It’s this wide.

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This car has a six character number plate, which would fit a square plate. US and Japanese cars got a conversion panel for a square plate. Evilbay provided a panel, I need to get a square plate made to see how it looks. If I like it I’ll plastic weld and fill it flush.

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Back on the ground it doesn’t seem as low as I expected, now has me wondering what the hell springs are fitted to the front?

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I Sooooo like those wheels! There’s hours and hours of cleaning and polishing needing to be invested there.

Now that I’ve just had a decent look at that last pic, there’s water showing under that car, wtf is that coming from? Some investigation is required.
 
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ExMX5owner

Moderator
Staff member
Global Moderator
Supporter
Australian Zeds
Joined
Aug 31, 2022
Points
126
Location
Queensland, Australia
Model of Z
99 2.0
I do not envy your rust problems over there, holy dooley.. I doff my hat to you sir... You seem to have rusted out chassis on low mile motors, we have pristine chassis on high mile motors. Maybe there is window there to build a great Z from two, But this is Australia, it's 5 hours drive at least to the next town.. I looked at it as an option, about 2 grand to bring a car here, with un UV damaged interior and a young engine, relatively speaking. It is almost viable.
 
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IainP

Zorg Guru (II)
British Zeds
Joined
Feb 20, 2019
Points
119
Location
Out of my Tree, North of Perth, Scotland
Model of Z
1.9
Rust on this one isn’t that bad, just the bits that have only had a light coat of paint from new. Still have to fully remove the sills and rear wings but they’re nothing like as bad as some.
MX-5 of the same age have nearly dissolved, very few Mk1 left here. Merc SLK aren’t much better, rust in front wings, rear arches. BMW 1 series have quite a few instances of Mot fails for rusty rear subframes.
Having spoken to several scrap yards over the last few years, they’ve made quite a business of sending engines and gearboxes to sunnier climes, where the bodies survive and the mechanicals don’t.
 

Pingu

Zorg Guru (III)
3rd Party Trader
Joined
Dec 8, 2011
Points
145
EBay global shipping got me a pair of Center caps from the States, just have to find one more. Some major work to make everything as shiny as the caps.
lent my welder to a friend whilst he got his fixed, again. Despite warnings to make sure the torch was tight before he used it, he didn’t. Some serious arcing there, I’m glad I’d sent him off with my old torch and not my new Parweld.
View attachment 244237
So I bought a new tig.
No, I’d had my eye on a new one for a while. Stripped the mig down and trued up the torch connector on my sons mini lathe, actually looks much worse than it is, it’s just the stripping it down that’s a pain. I took the opportunity to open it and clean it, then do what I’d been meaning to do for a while, chop the bottle platform off the back. That now folds underneath the welder, which means I can now get it properly underneath my bench. I use medium cylinders, I think they’re about 45kg, so it’s braced for the few times I actually have a bottle on the back and added a strap to compliment the safety chain, complete overkill.
View attachment 244243

View attachment 244241
It’s designed for 15kg reels, but I only use 5k, or the 0.7 stainless reels, so I’m putting storage inside for my spare tips, shrouds and bottle spanners.
Are you able to run your TIG on single phase through a 13A plug?

I've always fancied giving TIG a go, but have been put off because the current demands are so high.
 

IainP

Zorg Guru (II)
British Zeds
Joined
Feb 20, 2019
Points
119
Location
Out of my Tree, North of Perth, Scotland
Model of Z
1.9
Works fine so long as I don’t run it flat out. Really rated for 16amp plug, as is my mig, but I don’t weld heavy stuff much.
I really bought the tig for some of the suspension bits I need to make for something else, and to make a proper job of my own exhausts. I’ve been using the mig and it’s ok, sure I could do a much better job though.
At some point I need to get 16 amp in the garage, but that needs a new consumer unit. Not to mention I need to move damn near everything in my garage to run cable.
Only tested the tig so far, it’s slow compared to mig, but it welds beautifully. My old one was an arc machine, so scratch start tig, it worked but I was never that happy. This new one is hf, much easier, I need to get practicing.
 

IainP

Zorg Guru (II)
British Zeds
Joined
Feb 20, 2019
Points
119
Location
Out of my Tree, North of Perth, Scotland
Model of Z
1.9
Those fuel pipes are available, as a kit, and, £300.
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At least I can see its rubber at both ends.
Once I drop the tank I’ll measure for stainless braided hose and use Magna clips. ( Magna clips are glorified worm clips inside a casing that looks like a hex fitting).
 
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