Rear end maintenance + other bits

Davyhoogy

Zorg Guru (III)
Joined
May 4, 2016
Points
148
Location
Sunderland
Model of Z
'98 2.8 z3
Copying @Antm72 and having a bit of a do up of the rear end of the car, but nowhere near to the same extent.
This has came about because of the MOT fail which was rear main brake pipes corroded.
I've got a list of things I want to do so thought this was the time to do it all. It will mean the car will be without an MOT until the work is all done.

- replace all brake pipes
- replace diff bush with powerflex
- replace beam bushes with oem equivalent
- clean up / paint the trailing arms and rear beam
- thicker spring pads
- replace full handbrake system
- replace rear heat shield
- new sills
- New front wings
- paint front bumper

I made a bit of a start tonight but only had a couple hours.

Brady helping as always...
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The rusty brake pipes in question
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Tank straps aren't completely rotten but they might have to go on the list if they don't clean up! Any advice on these appreciated.
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The diff bush has seen better days yet wasn't raised on the MOT.
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Step 1 and already an issue, handbrake cables, I can' get them undone, these are so tight!! I may just cut them from the other end and pull them through?
20180405_131955.jpg


Heatshield has rotten where the washers go over so that will need replacing. Why didn't I keep the ones from the donor car I had :banghead:
20180405_191657.jpg


The rear carrier might just be left off completely, haven't decided yet. It'll need a new spare.
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This is where we are so far. Probably not have time tomorrow but Saturday morning if I can sort the handbrake cables out then I should have the beam out.
20180405_191728.jpg


RIGHT. Some worrying images coming up. Under the rear most heatshield, where the back box is, this has been revealed!
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What do we think? Simple hammer it shut and weld it?

Also this is the condition of the diff mount from the underside. The infamous diff mount repairs have been carried out by a previous owner. But doesn't look amazing. I will cean it up and get a better look.
20180405_191743.jpg


@Antm72 what's the best way to disconnect the propshaft from the diff?
 

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5harp3y

Zorg Guru (IV)
British Zeds
Joined
Jul 10, 2015
Points
168
Location
Basingstoke
Model of Z
2.8
Handbrake cables shouldn't be too tight at that end just make sure the handle is down

For the prop just undo the 4 nuts with the handbrake on and then when you lower the beam the prop will fall away from the diff

Tank straps look OK, I'd just clean them up and paint them
 

Antm72

Zorg Expert (II)
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British Zeds
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May 4, 2015
Points
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Location
South Yorkshire
Model of Z
2.8
I used another spanner to lock the prop against the carrier as i had already disconnected my handbrake if you havent use it to lock the diff :thumbsup:
I had a few rotted through points i brought i order some 35 mm washes and it resolved the issues.
 

Antm72

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Points
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2.8
Only one tank strap is availible the short one.I have payed for the other one but its not come and ywo dead lines have noth passed will get a refund as not sure it will arrive . I had one strap new the other blasted and powder coated.
 

Mint

Zorg Expert (I)
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Dave sorry if I'm teaching you to suck eggs but there is a locking nut on the handbrake cables.
 

Mint

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How 29

Zorg Legend
British Zeds
Joined
Feb 26, 2018
Points
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Location
Rochdale
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Z4 2.0 Edition Exclusive
Hope it doesn't rain on you now you have got it stripped that far. Would never get anything like that done outside in Rochdale.
 

Jjim

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Mansfield
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1.9 Roadster
Is that crack on the sill or boot?
 

Bozzy

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Good on ya for tackling these jobs outside mate, fingers crossed the weather stays dry for you.
 

Sean d

Zorg Expert (I)
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f*** me Dave, if you are struggling with the hand brake nuts you are in for a big surprise when you get underneath :eek:, you will need one of these
bbar.jpg
 

Sean d

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Is that crack on the sill or boot?
The crack is on the rear cross member that the diff mounts too, its quite a common problem on the higher powered models due to the crap diff mount design :eek:
 

Davyhoogy

Zorg Guru (III)
Joined
May 4, 2016
Points
148
Location
Sunderland
Model of Z
'98 2.8 z3
I think we are due a dry day today then rain all weekend, typical.
If I can get it out and in the garage by tonight I can still work on it
 

roadvoyager1

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British Zeds
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Dec 1, 2013
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128
Location
Shotley Bridge
Model of Z
2.8ltr
Mark up the prop shaft and diff flanges so it goes back on the same position. I have seen a few comments about the prop running out of balance if it is not put back the same. Don’t know if it is a real issue but it is easy to do and possibly avoids a problem.
Also loosen of the big nut that hold the rear beam on whilst the car is still on its wheels they are "rather" tight and the car needs to be stable when you start haulling on that long breaker bar.
The side brackets have locktight on the Allen bolts and you may need a bit of heat applying to get them out. Whatever you do don't strip the heads.
 

Davyhoogy

Zorg Guru (III)
Joined
May 4, 2016
Points
148
Location
Sunderland
Model of Z
'98 2.8 z3
A neighbour has a Makita high powered impact gun which took the beam nuts straight off on the other car I did so I'll be using that again. I will remember to add heat to the brackets though just incase. They have all been coated in wd40 the last 2 daya
 

Davyhoogy

Zorg Guru (III)
Joined
May 4, 2016
Points
148
Location
Sunderland
Model of Z
'98 2.8 z3
Few more hours today and a spare pair of hands to help.
I had to remove the centre console to get to the nuts properly on the handbrake lever but got them in the end.

As usual that bracket under the main beam bushes was a bit tough to get off and scares the living hell out of you when
they bang and come loose.

Everything else came off with relative ease.

I now have the full axle in my garage so I can work on it tomorrow when it rains.
I have a stag tomorrow night so won't get as much done as I would like, also my brake pipe kit hasn't arrived yet.
The new handbrake shoes arrive but there isn't much difference to the old, even though they are dated 2007!
I'll be doing hours of rust removal tomorrow.

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Would I be best to strip the whole thing apart and then it would be easier to clean/paint each section . I think it will but I have no idea how to. Make it up as I go along lol
 

Antm72

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2.8
i stripped it down so it was as light as possible to put back.
You have to undo both swing arms and the diff mounts to seperate the beam this will help with bush removal.
The arms will then rotate 180° so you can clean top and bottom. I painted the tops out of the car and waited till it was hung back in the car and painted the rest before rebuilding the brakes and , brake pipes that fit on the arms.:thumbsup:
 

Mint

Zorg Expert (I)
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2.2 & 3.0 Sport
Good effort Dave, keep going. I take it Sunday will be a rest day:whistle::whistle:
 

Davyhoogy

Zorg Guru (III)
Joined
May 4, 2016
Points
148
Location
Sunderland
Model of Z
'98 2.8 z3
Good effort Dave, keep going. I take it Sunday will be a rest day:whistle::whistle:
Sunday midday Kate is back from the hen party in Dublin. So Sunday 8-12 Will be 'tidy the house and pretend nothing ever happened'
 
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