So what deals are they offering on panels then I would be interested in pricing.
Panels
- Thread starter PeteZ3
- Start date
If you need a quote, give them a ring, details here:
https://zroadster.org/threads/welcome-to-soper-of-lincoln-bmw-parts.3137/,
I can't remember the original price but they quoted £119 each for the sills and it was about £50 to £60 pounds off.
https://zroadster.org/threads/welcome-to-soper-of-lincoln-bmw-parts.3137/,
I can't remember the original price but they quoted £119 each for the sills and it was about £50 to £60 pounds off.
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2015
- Points
- 75
- Model of Z
- 1998 Manual 2.8
Why did you get a discount? I got quoted 150 each at my local bmw dealer (Blackpool)
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2015
- Points
- 75
- Model of Z
- 1998 Manual 2.8
yep! i rang them and talked to the guy, i called Blackpool and asked if they could match it, they couldnt do that good a price, but i got them for 129 each, which is a far sight better than 153Zorg discount
just went down there then and payed, they will be ready for friday 
- Joined
- Mar 15, 2015
- Points
- 191
Yours look great almost new
- Joined
- Mar 15, 2015
- Points
- 191
I'm sorry to hear your crying inside, i would be to. I hope your soon to be smiling inside and out when its all sorteddo i get any prizes for having the rustiest zed then?
im actually crying inside.
i have no idea where its lived all its life, maybe near the sea in a ditch? ... i
I wrote my first Z3 off due to the cost of getting the rust sorted. Mine was mainly in the panels, and the sills were still fresh as a daisy.
Worked out new sills, and then a complete respray was almost the same as the car was worth at the time. By the time I'd sold off the expensive bits'n'bobs I'd fitted to it and then the cash I sold it for, I'd pretty much broken even...
Worked out new sills, and then a complete respray was almost the same as the car was worth at the time. By the time I'd sold off the expensive bits'n'bobs I'd fitted to it and then the cash I sold it for, I'd pretty much broken even...
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2015
- Points
- 75
- Model of Z
- 1998 Manual 2.8
not really what i want to be hearing! haha
I did have a Z4 at the same time, so I wasn't really that committed to the 3. If it wasn't rusty I would have put up for sale as a runner. But by the time I'd took the sills off, and had the paint bead blasted off them I was kind of forced down an expensive route I didn't want to go on.
I'd probably handle it differently now...
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2015
- Points
- 75
- Model of Z
- 1998 Manual 2.8
Wow, yeah, I am saving a lot of money because I'm not paying anything for the paint, so hopefully it will always be best to replace parts rather than writing it off, after I've had my front and tear quarters painted and my skills... And the welding on the jacking points it'll look as good as newI did have a Z4 at the same time, so I wasn't really that committed to the 3. If it wasn't rusty I would have put up for sale as a runner. But by the time I'd took the sills off, and had the paint bead blasted off them I was kind of forced down an expensive route I didn't want to go on.
I'd probably handle it differently now...
Thanks - the frame was in good condition but I got to the sills and wing panels just in time - rust was setting in there.
If you haven't taken the sills off yet, and you are keeping your car long term, then they should go on the `to do' list. The main areas of concern are the behind the front wheel arch liner for both sill and wing panels.
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2015
- Points
- 75
- Model of Z
- 1998 Manual 2.8
Mine were a lot worse than that, they were completely clogged with mud, hence the excessive rust in the chassis. It's strange, the rest of my chassis looks okay, my Zed must have lifed on a farm at some point!Oh, just found this picture as well showing how much crud gets behind the door sills. Something I think a lot of people don't realise...
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2015
- Points
- 75
- Model of Z
- 1998 Manual 2.8
Update!! Myself and my dad (mainly my dad) fibreglass patched the rear quarters, making sure the get it down to bare metal to eliminate all rust... Filled it with body filler. I have bought genuine sills, and got two front wings from euro car parts for only 33 quid each including delivery! Panels are now at my girlfriends dads house ready for spraying! He said he's gonna stone chip under the sills and till in all the nucks and crannys in the inside if the panels with this rubbery stuff.. I forget what its called. Basically they will last For another 17 years. Can't wait, he's doing them when he has a break in his work, he said he'll do them next week some time, exciting times!
Here's some pickys:
I didn't take that many because I mainly had either resin or filler covering my hands, but you'll get the jist.
My dremel really came in handy getting rid of the rust that was still there after shot blasting, I would really reccomend using one if your doing a similar job. The little wire brushes could get into the tight spots really well!
This is obviously before, the bracket was pretty nasty, but it got shot blasted and we then fibreglass it to make it nice and strong
We used this aluminium tape on the outside of the hole and filled it from the back with chopped strand then used a layer if fine
I learned a lot by watching my dad do this, I think if I were to tackle this by myself next time, I could do a good job.
Anyway, it was time for a home brew break!
We left the fibreglass to cure over night, trimmed it off using a dremel, sanded a bit here and there, then began to fill the pits, unfortunately I didnt get any pictures of this, but there was a lot of filler involved, there was some bad pits along the under side of the arch.
We just got rid of all the rust we could see and primed it to prevent further rust... Dave ( my girlfriends dad) said just to do this and he would then sand it all down and just do it his way... There was no point in us trying to do it, it'll only take him a few mins, where as it would have taken us all day haha... Here are some final pics of what they were like when we sent it him...
There was quite a lot of rust on the filler cap, but I got rid of it using the trusty dremel and sanded it all down then primed it.
And this is a group photo.. Notice the tyre stack haha... My mum isn't happy lol...
And there you have it. I can't wait for my panels to be done!... Were going to do the welding on the chassis next week, so shell be on the road again soon!!
Here's some pickys:
I didn't take that many because I mainly had either resin or filler covering my hands, but you'll get the jist.
My dremel really came in handy getting rid of the rust that was still there after shot blasting, I would really reccomend using one if your doing a similar job. The little wire brushes could get into the tight spots really well!
This is obviously before, the bracket was pretty nasty, but it got shot blasted and we then fibreglass it to make it nice and strong
We used this aluminium tape on the outside of the hole and filled it from the back with chopped strand then used a layer if fine
I learned a lot by watching my dad do this, I think if I were to tackle this by myself next time, I could do a good job.
Anyway, it was time for a home brew break!
We left the fibreglass to cure over night, trimmed it off using a dremel, sanded a bit here and there, then began to fill the pits, unfortunately I didnt get any pictures of this, but there was a lot of filler involved, there was some bad pits along the under side of the arch.
We just got rid of all the rust we could see and primed it to prevent further rust... Dave ( my girlfriends dad) said just to do this and he would then sand it all down and just do it his way... There was no point in us trying to do it, it'll only take him a few mins, where as it would have taken us all day haha... Here are some final pics of what they were like when we sent it him...
There was quite a lot of rust on the filler cap, but I got rid of it using the trusty dremel and sanded it all down then primed it.
And this is a group photo.. Notice the tyre stack haha... My mum isn't happy lol...
And there you have it. I can't wait for my panels to be done!... Were going to do the welding on the chassis next week, so shell be on the road again soon!!
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2015
- Points
- 75
- Model of Z
- 1998 Manual 2.8
little update:
We have commenced the chassis work, we started on the worst which is the front left jacking point and its ready for welding in Brians replacement piece tomorrow which has been shaped and fits snug. also ground a little bit off the other corners to explore the extent of the rust... first thoughts are , it is not as bad as first though, im thinking that we are not going to have to replace all the jacking points, but we shall see tomorrow if thats necessary. its probable that we will only replace little bits on the corners that arn't too bad...
anyway. Brians replacement chassis parts are thicker than mine! very strange, the metal is definitely a different gauge. @Brian H if you could chime in as to why this is or let me know what model the z is that we used as a donor it would be good to know why its thicker than mine?
I believe this is why my jacking points are particularly bad. when the car has been jacked up using the points it has bent the thinner metal increasing the amount of rust... obviously this is just a contributing factor. but i would deffo like to know which models have thicker and which have thinner chassis's. if anybody could shed some light it would be grate!!
Pete
We have commenced the chassis work, we started on the worst which is the front left jacking point and its ready for welding in Brians replacement piece tomorrow which has been shaped and fits snug. also ground a little bit off the other corners to explore the extent of the rust... first thoughts are , it is not as bad as first though, im thinking that we are not going to have to replace all the jacking points, but we shall see tomorrow if thats necessary. its probable that we will only replace little bits on the corners that arn't too bad...
anyway. Brians replacement chassis parts are thicker than mine! very strange, the metal is definitely a different gauge. @Brian H if you could chime in as to why this is or let me know what model the z is that we used as a donor it would be good to know why its thicker than mine?
I believe this is why my jacking points are particularly bad. when the car has been jacked up using the points it has bent the thinner metal increasing the amount of rust... obviously this is just a contributing factor. but i would deffo like to know which models have thicker and which have thinner chassis's. if anybody could shed some light it would be grate!!
Pete
IIRC Pete, I think Brian's donor car was a 3.0? Sound like good progress mate.
Tony.
Tony.
