Then you're a very lucky man, young Albert.I was after a B roadster when i fell across the zeds. Now i've ended up with you lot!
Tony.
New garage Queen.
- Thread starter t-tony
- Start date
Tony.
After showing Tony, where I had got to with his Midget I have some more strip down pictures for you. After getting the car up on stands and removing the wire wheels with the copper/hide hammer the strip down began.
With the wheel out of the way next comes the brake drum which is retained by 4 nuts on the original wheel studs, these are locked by "tab" washers to prevent loosening of the nuts.
A couple of taps freed the drums and they slid off easily. The half shaft and splined hubs for the spoked wheels are held to the bearing hub by 1 single Phillips screw, which when removed allows the half shaft to be withdrawn from the axle tube. Now I could disconnect the H/B cables and brake pipes from the cylinders and take the back plates off the end of the axle. The N/S one came off easily-ish but the O/S one I had to drill the heads off the 4 bolts and punch them out of the axle after removing the back plate.
You can see the bodge carried out by the previous owner on the brake shoes adjuster, it had been replaced by an 8mm nut and bolts which offered no adjustment of the brake shoe what so ever.
In this picture you can see the end of the tapered adjusting screw in it's location, the new shiny one in the centre of the back plate with it's 2 new wedges are what the adjuster consists of. As the screw is turned inwards by using a spanner on the outer end the taper forces the wedges out which in turn pushes the brake shoe surface closer to the drum face. So simple, but very effective. BUT,
On the O/S one there was the 8mm bolt, which really was doing absolutely nothing,
This is what I ended up with by tea time on Saturday.
I was trained to keep tools in an orderly fashion and clean. I'll hopefully get the wheel bearings and hub oil seals changed and gaskets scraped before the new pile of bits arrive later this week.
Tony.
With the wheel out of the way next comes the brake drum which is retained by 4 nuts on the original wheel studs, these are locked by "tab" washers to prevent loosening of the nuts.
A couple of taps freed the drums and they slid off easily. The half shaft and splined hubs for the spoked wheels are held to the bearing hub by 1 single Phillips screw, which when removed allows the half shaft to be withdrawn from the axle tube. Now I could disconnect the H/B cables and brake pipes from the cylinders and take the back plates off the end of the axle. The N/S one came off easily-ish but the O/S one I had to drill the heads off the 4 bolts and punch them out of the axle after removing the back plate.
You can see the bodge carried out by the previous owner on the brake shoes adjuster, it had been replaced by an 8mm nut and bolts which offered no adjustment of the brake shoe what so ever.
In this picture you can see the end of the tapered adjusting screw in it's location, the new shiny one in the centre of the back plate with it's 2 new wedges are what the adjuster consists of. As the screw is turned inwards by using a spanner on the outer end the taper forces the wedges out which in turn pushes the brake shoe surface closer to the drum face. So simple, but very effective. BUT,
On the O/S one there was the 8mm bolt, which really was doing absolutely nothing,
This is what I ended up with by tea time on Saturday.
I was trained to keep tools in an orderly fashion and clean. I'll hopefully get the wheel bearings and hub oil seals changed and gaskets scraped before the new pile of bits arrive later this week.
Tony.
Top work there mate,the owner will be well chuffed with such progressAfter showing Tony, where I had got to with his Midget I have some more strip down pictures for you. After getting the car up on stands and removing the wire wheels with the copper/hide hammer the strip down began.
View attachment 51273
With the wheel out of the way next comes the brake drum which is retained by 4 nuts on the original wheel studs, these are locked by "tab" washers to prevent loosening of the nuts.
View attachment 51279
A couple of taps freed the drums and they slid off easily. The half shaft and splined hubs for the spoked wheels are held to the bearing hub by 1 single Phillips screw, which when removed allows the half shaft to be withdrawn from the axle tube. Now I could disconnect the H/B cables and brake pipes from the cylinders and take the back plates off the end of the axle. The N/S one came off easily-ish but the O/S one I had to drill the heads off the 4 bolts and punch them out of the axle after removing the back plate.
View attachment 51277 View attachment 51278
You can see the bodge carried out by the previous owner on the brake shoes adjuster, it had been replaced by an 8mm nut and bolts which offered no adjustment of the brake shoe what so ever.
View attachment 51274
View attachment 51268
In this picture you can see the end of the tapered adjusting screw in it's location, the new shiny one in the centre of the back plate with it's 2 new wedges are what the adjuster consists of. As the screw is turned inwards by using a spanner on the outer end the taper forces the wedges out which in turn pushes the brake shoe surface closer to the drum face. So simple, but very effective. BUT,
View attachment 51275
On the O/S one there was the 8mm bolt, which really was doing absolutely nothing,
View attachment 51276
This is what I ended up with by tea time on Saturday.
View attachment 51269 View attachment 51270 View attachment 51271
I was trained to keep tools in an orderly fashion and clean. I'll hopefully get the wheel bearings and hub oil seals changed and gaskets scraped before the new pile of bits arrive later this week.
Tony.
.
Thanks Steve, yes me and Tony had a site meeting this afternoon and he left with a list.Top work there mate,the owner will be well chuffed with such progress
Tony.
I look forward to the next update .
.
Great read Tony, I love this sort of stuffAfter showing Tony, where I had got to with his Midget I have some more strip down pictures for you. After getting the car up on stands and removing the wire wheels with the copper/hide hammer the strip down began.
View attachment 51273
With the wheel out of the way next comes the brake drum which is retained by 4 nuts on the original wheel studs, these are locked by "tab" washers to prevent loosening of the nuts.
View attachment 51279
A couple of taps freed the drums and they slid off easily. The half shaft and splined hubs for the spoked wheels are held to the bearing hub by 1 single Phillips screw, which when removed allows the half shaft to be withdrawn from the axle tube. Now I could disconnect the H/B cables and brake pipes from the cylinders and take the back plates off the end of the axle. The N/S one came off easily-ish but the O/S one I had to drill the heads off the 4 bolts and punch them out of the axle after removing the back plate.
View attachment 51277 View attachment 51278
You can see the bodge carried out by the previous owner on the brake shoes adjuster, it had been replaced by an 8mm nut and bolts which offered no adjustment of the brake shoe what so ever.
View attachment 51274
View attachment 51268
In this picture you can see the end of the tapered adjusting screw in it's location, the new shiny one in the centre of the back plate with it's 2 new wedges are what the adjuster consists of. As the screw is turned inwards by using a spanner on the outer end the taper forces the wedges out which in turn pushes the brake shoe surface closer to the drum face. So simple, but very effective. BUT,
View attachment 51275
On the O/S one there was the 8mm bolt, which really was doing absolutely nothing,
View attachment 51276
This is what I ended up with by tea time on Saturday.
View attachment 51269 View attachment 51270 View attachment 51271
I was trained to keep tools in an orderly fashion and clean. I'll hopefully get the wheel bearings and hub oil seals changed and gaskets scraped before the new pile of bits arrive later this week.
Tony.
Quite a bit to go yet Dave, then I have to give the front brakes a once over. After seeing the "cost effective" repair on the rear brakes we need to see that the front ones are up to scratch.
Tony.
Tony.
What idiot would put a nut and bolt in place of an adjuster!! Great work and keep those pics and posts coming please! JIM
Yes did a lot of courting in a midget when I was much younger and more pliable. If you know what I mean. We also campaigned an MGB GT for years until I just got fed up with repairing it all the time. Allways something that needs doing on an English sports car. But enjoyed them all immensely.
Mike
Talking of nostalgia @hard top (Mike) the sound the exhaust makes on these cars always makes me think sports cars. The sound of modern exhausts just not compare in any way. Of course the other thing was the brakes just weren't that good, I recall slowing down urgently from 100mph on the A1 with smoke billowing from the wheel arches and wondering if I was actually going to stop in time or hit the car in front.
Mike
Mike
These cars were not built to do those speeds Mike.......I was going to ask about humping in a Midget, but I think I had better not...
If
if there's a will there will be a way Mike!! JIMThese cars were not built to do those speeds Mike.......I was going to ask about humping in a Midget, but I think I had better not...
Yes iam very pleased with the on going progress.Top work there mate,the owner will be well chuffed with such progress
It's like reading a page in my Practical Classic car magazine.
Very lucky to have Tony as a friend and to see someone who loves his hobby.
As a club you all must find him a great asset and character.
I am also learning from seeing what to do.
May be tony might want me to change the head on his 4 in the future!!
I will practice on my wife's one first.
Nice car.When I was a kid, I loved these.....
The Sunbeam Tiger is a high-performance V8 version of the British Rootes Group'sSunbeam Alpineroadster, designed in part by American car designer and racing driver Carroll Shelby and produced from 1964 until 1967.
One of these each sunday night is on itv . Amanda Redman drives one in a Good Karma Hospital.
we now have our own resident Edd China
Mike, @hard top in its standard form the MGB was good for about 108 mph Mine was running a 571 fast road camshaft and had been tuned on a rolling road. So 100mph was no problem. Mind you I would not swear to the accuracy of the dashboard instruments. The chassis was well up to that sought of speed. The materials on the brake pads were the problem, there was no red stuff or yellow stuff pads available to the general public. Plus we run our cars on a shoestring, Fix's like t-tony has found on the midget drum brakes were quite common and to an extent they worked. Personally I always like to have things like brakes working properly.
Mike
Mike
After showing Tony, where I had got to with his Midget I have some more strip down pictures for you. After getting the car up on stands and removing the wire wheels with the copper/hide hammer the strip down began.
View attachment 51273
With the wheel out of the way next comes the brake drum which is retained by 4 nuts on the original wheel studs, these are locked by "tab" washers to prevent loosening of the nuts.
View attachment 51279
A couple of taps freed the drums and they slid off easily. The half shaft and splined hubs for the spoked wheels are held to the bearing hub by 1 single Phillips screw, which when removed allows the half shaft to be withdrawn from the axle tube. Now I could disconnect the H/B cables and brake pipes from the cylinders and take the back plates off the end of the axle. The N/S one came off easily-ish but the O/S one I had to drill the heads off the 4 bolts and punch them out of the axle after removing the back plate.
View attachment 51277 View attachment 51278
You can see the bodge carried out by the previous owner on the brake shoes adjuster, it had been replaced by an 8mm nut and bolts which offered no adjustment of the brake shoe what so ever.
View attachment 51274
View attachment 51268
In this picture you can see the end of the tapered adjusting screw in it's location, the new shiny one in the centre of the back plate with it's 2 new wedges are what the adjuster consists of. As the screw is turned inwards by using a spanner on the outer end the taper forces the wedges out which in turn pushes the brake shoe surface closer to the drum face. So simple, but very effective. BUT,
View attachment 51275
On the O/S one there was the 8mm bolt, which really was doing absolutely nothing,
View attachment 51276
This is what I ended up with by tea time on Saturday.
View attachment 51269 View attachment 51270 View attachment 51271
I was trained to keep tools in an orderly fashion and clean. I'll hopefully get the wheel bearings and hub oil seals changed and gaskets scraped before the new pile of bits arrive later this week.
Tony.
Does your wife know her oven broiler pan is missig?
Been part of my garage equipment for years that has Frankie.
Tony.
Tony.
Doesn't every garage have at least one of those?? I know mine does along with Tupperware, etc! JIM