Anyway. I've gone and ordered the 507 kit 
what have I done!
what have I done!
My 507 re-body Questions.
- Thread starter Duncodin
- Start date
Right, I'll shut up about Bagheeras now then.
Tony.
Tony.
Dxbolton
Zorg Guru (III)
You’ve done the right thingAnyway. I've gone and ordered the 507 kit
Happy to help if you have any questions
I got some pics for you. It takes me about 10 minutes to make it mobile (empty of course) once you have the right bits of wood etc. Once you've moved it a couple of times it easy to do. Moving it using the pump/motor unit is very difficult but possibly. Using a small trolley jack you only have to worry about pulling it along not pressing down as well. The swing out arms are located in slots on the inside of the lift main body. The rear ones are 30 cm long and the fronts around 18cm. The arms can be lifted inboard of the stop pins but you should never lift in that position.
The arms have 2 stop pins to keep the lift pads from sliding right off the arms.
It is a good idea to make this tool to reach under and pull the arms out from under the car. Just "feels" for the inner edge and slide to the end of the arm and locate against the pad stop pin. Turn it over to and locate it on the outside of the arm to push the arm back in till it hits the stop pin.
Tony.
Moving the lift.
When using a bar and block to raise the lift ALWAYS have blocks of wood under it just in case. You do NOT want this thing landing on your hands or feet. An old scissor jack with a 1/2" drive socket welded on the end is good for lifting once you get it high enough to get the jack under the cross bar.
Tony.
When using a bar and block to raise the lift ALWAYS have blocks of wood under it just in case. You do NOT want this thing landing on your hands or feet. An old scissor jack with a 1/2" drive socket welded on the end is good for lifting once you get it high enough to get the jack under the cross bar.
Tony.
Wow. Tony. Thank you for taking rhe time to take and post all those pictures. That's a lot of work.
If I had a big garage I wouldn't need to move it. I have the height. But not the width. If I want to swing the doors wide open or hit something with a cat I'll need the the space to swing a cat. S'why I do my cat swingin out on the drive.
Probably quicker and easier for me to get a bigger trolly jack and some tall axle stands.
Hummm. Need to have a think.
If I had a big garage I wouldn't need to move it. I have the height. But not the width. If I want to swing the doors wide open or hit something with a cat I'll need the the space to swing a cat. S'why I do my cat swingin out on the drive.
Probably quicker and easier for me to get a bigger trolly jack and some tall axle stands.
Hummm. Need to have a think.
You’ve done the right thing
Happy to help if you have any questions
Here's one. Wheels. I'm going to need fatter wheels aint I? I don't like spacers. Really won't put them on the front.
Hey @Nodzed I hope you don't mind me popping this post back to the top. I wasjust looking back and notice that this tilting lift doesn't even sit on the jacking points? Do you have some extra extension under there?
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2016
- Points
- 246
- Model of Z
- Z3M Imola and Z4 (e89)
Got rid of it years ago but I'm fairly sure it sat on the chassis not the jack points
How it attaches. There's 3 screw holes. Can't see innthe picture. Also a bracket which I may or may not use.
I'm not sure what you mean by 'nose'. If you mean the thin end of the handle then if you look closely at it you'll see it's hinged. I'll take a better picture.
Straight line? Flexible linkage. But, truth be told, I don't know. I dont have rhe kit yet so will mock up a door skin and try different things till i hit on something i like
I just had a closer look at it. There appears to be a bit of a gap of couple mm at the very front tip of the handle which allows the lever to rock without digging into the door. Gap means muck trap so something i need to think about
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2011
- Points
- 165
I've got it. It sits on the area by the sills, but not on the sills (if that makes sense). I use the back of the front jacking point as the datum for the jacking plate, and put 50kg in the boot to balance the car. If you don't balance the car, it is very heavy to lift.
It's an awkward beast to move around, but it's very good to use when the car is on it. You either need a method of driving over it, or a space beside your car that is wider than the car, as it slides in from the side.
I was just talking with the guy at Automech about his various lifts.
He said the tilting lift must only be used with one pair of wheels on the ground. ie must not be used to do a straight lift. Now isn't that strange seeing as how I'm sure I've seen pictures of it on their site or brochures etc showing it in the straight lift position as per NodZed's picture?
But then maybe he was just trying to steer me towards the bigger lifts
My garage isn't wide enough to slide it in from the side. I was thinking of ways to make drive over ramp.
I was a little worried about positioning because I'd be lifting a zed with fibre glass sills so would need to be well clear of the the f/g
I have one of these babies as well…great thing.very robust…the big no no with the benefit of hindsight is that because of the design and mechanism it’s difficult / impossible to use to get to gearbox / exhaust / downpipe areas…for the extra cost I would have been better with the ‘drive on’ ramp version..I’ve got round it by building some chunky ‘blocks’..so I jack it up..get the blocks under the wheels then lower the lift down..then slide a big piece of marine ply underneath to allow a smoother working area ..still has a major limitation if you need to drop a prop shaft then this won’t work but for many under the car items it works…
That’s what I suggested with mine. Lift the car till you can get an upturned plastic milk crate under each wheel. Lower the car onto the crates (they are easily strong enough), lower the lift to the ground then use the lift pad extensions and re lift the car. Gives roughly 15” more headroom.
Tony.
Tony.
I spent a few days last month making a nice mezzanine floor in my garage. There was some old warped 3x2's across the garage but no floor. Now I have 6x2's and a nice mezzanine floor to walk on. But it's just 210cm off the ground. More than enough headroom for me to walk about under but I'd be worried about lifting the car all the way on your lift @t-tony
Why. It is designed and made to work to its limits. 210 cm = 2.1M head room, so with a car on it you”re only going to lift the car about 4ft off the ground?
Tony.
Tony.
I think your lift will lift 1.3M The Z3 is 1.3m high so lifted to the full height of your lift without the additional block the top of the Z will be at 2.6m That's 0.5 beyond the height of my garage below the mezzanine
But the mezzanine doesn't extend the whole length of the garage. I could reverse the car in, lower the softtop and lift the car all the way and the screen would be clear of the mezzanine floor. That would work. But one day I'll forget to lower the softtop and won't be watching what I'm doing.