Hand brake stuck

NickUK

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Hi, I recently joined the site and mentioned in my introduction post that I was going to refurbish a brake caliper. After removing the wheel and also looking at the handle inside the car, I think the handbrake is stuck on the driver side rear wheel.

The handle in the car is very loose with no tension whatsoever until it's pulled almost all the way up. I have attached photos of what the bolts look like when it is up and down (first is up, the rest are down). I've never dealt with a handbrake before but am I right in thinking that brass coloured plate should be flush against the black bit even when down?IMG_20191012_140112-1600x1200.jpg IMG_20191012_140411-1600x1199.jpg IMG_20191012_140337-1600x1200.jpg IMG_20191012_140318-1600x1200.jpg

I had to drive the car when this first happened and the disc was very hot after a while hence I thought it was a stuck caliper. It squeels while maneuvering but that stops when the car is moving along the road.

When I turn the rear wheels by hand, the passenger side one has a little bit of friction but the driver side (the one that has been squeeling and getting hot) will only move freely by a few degrees each way under my strength. I can hear the squeel when it gets to the point where it won't move.

Any ideas please?

Thank you!
 

Mazza

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It could be a few things but I would suggest removing both rear drums and checking both sides. Also could be the cable itself sticking.
160E4C01-1773-4839-94D4-5B808B6FD165.jpeg


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Hope this helps.
 

mrscalex

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I would tend to think it indicates a seized cable. You may find there is a crack in the outer casing and that's where moisture has got in.

And I would usually expect both adjusters to be around the same position. So he nearside looks suspicious as well as the offside.

If you end up with new cable(s) buy genuine BMW. They are almost exactly the same price as a trip to Eurocarparts and won't need any fettling.
 

NickUK

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I would tend to think it indicates a seized cable. You may find there is a crack in the outer casing and that's where moisture has got in.

And I would usually expect both adjusters to be around the same position. So he nearside looks suspicious as well as the offside.

If you end up with new cable(s) buy genuine BMW. They are almost exactly the same price as a trip to Eurocarparts and won't need any fettling.
Thank you. I'm thinking that too and a cable doesn't look like a particularly bad job to do.

Just to confirm does anybody think it is the caliper? I stupidly bought a refurb kit for the caliper before thinking about it! I assume that the brake getting stuck after the handbrake has been on being the main sign it's the handbrake and not the caliper.
 

t-tony

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You can take the calliper off to see if it was that (unlikely), could be cable ( as Rob said check cable outer sheaths for cracks and rusty stains) two other possibilities are seized shoe expander (likely) and/or shoe lining come off one off the shoes and is jammed behind the other shoe (likely) .
You will have to de adjust the shoes to get the disc/drum off.

Tony.
 
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the Nefyn cat

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Looks like seized cables to me, been there had that. Cable outer was stuck in the backplate, had to drill it out, and the other end was well stuck in the tube it goes through above the back end of the prop, just had to be persistent to get it out. As said above, get BMW cables, you don't want to be doing it again next year.
 

Dino D

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The handbrake shows can make a racket if they stick on get dislodged (when the backplate gets too rusty and the mounting points give way).

I used some YouTube videos to get the rear disc off - only hard part was persuading the disc off the hub, needed some hammer taps. Was surprisingly easy.

What I found behind the disc was not pleasant...
My hand brake has been used to slow the vehicle when the rear pad material dropped out and was just the pad backing plate left (EBC can be somewhat variable quality I have found out....).
Hence you can see the shoes showing wear - it wasn’t used a lot but they wore out very easily- I not sure they would last long enough to actually get your disc hot.

Perhaps you have handbrake issue and stick calliper (very common).
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t-tony

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Biggest issue is that hand brake shoes get very little or no maintenance and are ignored until either a) the hand brake fails to hold or b) the cars fails the hand brake efficiency on the MOT.
They should not be used to slow the car at all and should only be applied after the car is stationary, but we all do that, don't we?;)
Before going in for test mine gets a good workout on the way in to town.

I did a "How to" on fitting hand brake cables and shoes when I had my Z3.

https://zroadster.org/articles/bmw-z3-parking-brake-cable-replacement.80/

Tony.
 

Ianmc

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The handbrake should be applied gently at slow speed from time to time. This is stated in early driver handbooks. Think later deleted for "safety" reasons.
 

the Nefyn cat

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The handbrake should be applied gently at slow speed from time to time. This is stated in early driver handbooks. Think later deleted for "safety" reasons.
Helps to scrub off any corrosion/cr4p that's built up in the drum. Not as effective as taking the disc/drum off and getting in there with an emery wheel, but a lot easier.
 

NickUK

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Whatever it is, the handle in the car feels lifeless like nothing is happening when I put it down.

When I tried to move the car yesterday, the wheel was frozen solid, the worst it's been. It has been sitting for a week or two after a long trip on which the fault originally appeared. I stalled the engine trying to move it but had to as the wheel in question was inaccessible against a wall.

That fact the whole car was almost performing some kind of Yoga position as I tried to move suggests there is an issue at that drum but I agree the cable needs a good inspection too.

Thank you for all the advice. I'm enjoying it in here so far!
 
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the Nefyn cat

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If/when you get round to doing it, it sounds like the brake drum will be stuck on. When mine went I cut through the cable with an angle driver and that was enough to release the brake. Wish you luck, it can be a real PITA.
 

NickUK

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I've not even had a caliper off yet due to the absence of a certain 7mm tool :banghead:

The lack of 7mm allen keys in standard sets seems to be a mystery both online and in the shops! I've gone for a hex socket set with 14mm and 17mm too so fun can also be had with differential oil changing at some point...
 

mrscalex

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I've not even had a caliper off yet due to the absence of a certain 7mm tool :banghead:

The lack of 7mm allen keys in standard sets seems to be a mystery both online and in the shops! I've gone for a hex socket set with 14mm and 17mm too so fun can also be had with differential oil changing at some point...
I always use a hex bit on a wrench for the caliper anyway. Less hard work than an allen key.
 

t-tony

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You will also need a 6mm Allen key/socket for the disc securing screw too.

Tony.
 

petecossie

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Sounds like handbrake cable seized. My car failed MOT last week as driver side cable was seized. As Tony mentioned already, it was only apparent when they did handbrake test. When they stripped the assembly down the drivers side shoes were completely shot, the passenger side was totally working ok and holding me fine for handbrake starts. New cables & shoes fitted, retest passed ok.
Hope you get your car sorted ok.
 

NickUK

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IMG_20191110_193957.jpg IMG_20191110_194028.jpg I finally found the time and correct tools to take everything off and the cable is absolutely wrecked. All the sheathing near the wheel end must have been ripped for a long time because the cable has rusted. What should the shoes look like? They look alright to me...
 

Sean d

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View attachment 122481 View attachment 122479 I finally found the time and correct tools to take everything off and the cable is absolutely wrecked. All the sheathing near the wheel end must have been ripped for a long time because the cable has rusted. What should the shoes look like? They look alright to me...
As you have come this far you may as well change the shoes and fixings, clean everything up and a good dose of grease, alco worth scrubbing the glaze off the inside of the drum with some 120 grit sand paper
 
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