DISA Unit

It works via vacuum, so at a certain pressure just flips open, or closed depending on how you view it.
 
Why, then an electrical connection? Is it a vacuum switch for a small motor?
 
I don't know Tony, I am talking from an M44 perspective, but even if electronic it would be open or closed, because all it is doing is changing flow routing from short to long, which affects the torque delivery curve between low and high revs. I can't see the benefit in it being only half open or closed etc, which is why I don't see a bearing noise being an issue, but a loose flap pin would cause a rattle.
 
Thanks Guys, I will have a look because I'm curios now.:)
 
I found if I put my finger on the diaphram housing I could feel the rattle. And if you press it you can hear the pitch change.I think m43/44 are the same type of unit £215 from sytner leicester.6cylinder is a different unit alltogerher.
Hope this helps
 
TBH.When i changed mine there was minimal play but for £50.i got the kit as in Billz link .prevention is better than a damaged engine.
And as said previously my fuel consumption has improved .
M
 
Got to be worth it for that alone I think Moz .I took mine off today after work and, I assume in the at rest position, it is "open" as in Woody's photos. The thing I don't understand is that if it is in fact open, with no electrical feed or vacuum depression in the manifold why does it appear to "close" when it operates ? Also I don't see where it gets it's vacuum from, if there was a pipe connection, you could suck on the connection and see if the vac capsule is a) working and b) holding vacuum the same as you can on an old school distributor.
My valve appears to be in good condition with no loose parts or rattles so until I find out how these operate and wether it is in fact operating as it should I won't be changing it.
Further research underway.
 

Attachments

  • 001.webp
    001.webp
    104.7 KB · Views: 283
  • 002.webp
    002.webp
    89.3 KB · Views: 280
  • 003.webp
    003.webp
    110 KB · Views: 292
  • 004.webp
    004.webp
    96 KB · Views: 286
  • 005.webp
    005.webp
    108.6 KB · Views: 276
My type of unit which is different to the one in the picture has a small hole in it which I could suck on to see if the flap opened.
Mine worked fine an and as tony said there were no loose bits but it still made the rattling noise.just like the engine to sound as quiet as poss :-)
 
bit confused on this checked the ebay guy and it doesn't seem to fit the 1999 2.8 anyone found another supplier ?
 
I'm surprised that considering this part/ device has been in place since at least 96 that there seems to be so little understanding of it's purpose and construction. Obviously it couldn't have been a major concern until lately and in a low milage car to boot. Does kinda make you wonder if it will happen to you. I've seen situations like this over the years where perfectly good parts were replaced with new only to have a problem show up with the new part. It's a crap shoot at best which way to go! Good luck everyone. JIM
 
I'm the same mind as you Jim, wait till it breaks then change, alas, though there is a chance that broken debris can get in the engine in extreme cases.
 
My father in law was a preventive maintainence junkie and one summer I replaced three starters and his carb. He was getting 28 mpg but only 13 with the new carb. Same with spark plugs, etc. I bought three of his vehicles and drove them all without incident, just reg oil changes, etc.
 
It seems I have a possible disa issue on my 1999 2.0

Does anyone have a recommendation for either a complete unit supplier or repair kit.

Thanks
 
Applied Thought said:
It seems I have a possible disa issue on my 1999 2.0

Does anyone have a recommendation for either a complete unit supplier or repair kit.

Thanks
Click to expand...
Try i6 Automotive, sheffield, they do a repair kit, got mine from them 3.0 Z4, cost about £50, an better than original now,
M
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top