Clutch slave cylinder help!!!

t-tony

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That's what thought, got nothing to loose so had a go a rebuilding it. This one wasnt too badly exploded so i put it back together and there was a small split in gator which i glued with storm sure.
Will put it back in when i come back from holiday and fingers crossed it'll work this time

I'll have a ago using your method this time

Pete
Hope you get it done OK when you get to it Pete. Good luck mate.

Tony.
 

Daspete

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Still a no go. Rebuilt the cylinder which whilst fiddly easy enough to do then fitted back to the car using the advice given. Still refuses to work.
This time i pre bled it and made sure i got it seated correctly. It needed some good pressure to push down the cylinder too so definitely in place.
Bled it properly pressed the pedal and it's like it's connected to nothing.

Looks like the box needs to be dropped now as there's something quite clearly wrong in there

The throw out lever seems quite far back as in i can only just touch it, as in forcing my fingers right in. Is that right?
 

Mazza

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Its possible that the top end of the lever has come loose from the locating pin (possibly the retaining spring broken ?)
The centre is held by the thrust bearing,

Just found the exploded view.(for a 1998 1.9 ).....is item 6 attached to the lever or dropped out????
58826D96-5EEA-433D-BA9F-B6EA5C84DFE7.png
 

Daspete

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Its possible that the top end of the lever has come loose from the locating pin (possibly the retaining spring broken ?)
The centre is held by the thrust bearing,

Just found the exploded view.(for a 1998 1.9 ).....is item 6 attached to the lever or dropped out????
View attachment 97229
Im guessing i won't be able to find out unless the box is removed?
 

Mazza

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No chance of shining a torch through the opening and using a mirror to see if the ball pin is located in the lever???
 

t-tony

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Looking that way now Pete I'm sorry to say. But there ate much worse cars to take the "box" out of though.

Tony.
 

Daspete

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Well i knew the clutch wasn't far away so guess I'm gonna have to bite the bullet

It seems connected as it's not rattling about but it does seem quite firm where it is.

The pedal feels like nothing nothing nothing then it stops before hitting the bottom. Feels like a brake pedal when the brakes are on but you push the pedal that bit more so the cylinder is definitely in the right place and bled up just not actuating anything.
 

Stevo7682

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I have a couple of things to ask .
Did the car drive ok to start with ?.
Still think the problem is hydraulic.
How did you bleed it ?
If the car drove without slipping the clutch before you started and now it doesn't can only be something to do with what you have touched and as you have only messed with the hydraulic system the problem has to be there or the car would be the same as before you started.
Stephen.
 

Daspete

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It seemed like the clutch wasn't disengaging properly.
Bled it with an easy bleed kit that you connect to the tyre. Always worked well.
 

t-tony

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Does seem as though the release arm has become dislodged.

Tony.
 

Daspete

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Yer something has gone a miss. Maybe when the first cylinder exploded it dislodged something or the whole problem could have been something to do with the release mechanism.

Going to take it off and cycle the piston a few times to see if it dislodges any air.
Reason i think that is i refitted twice today as the first time i thought I'd blown it again.
Before i fitted it again i cycled the piston a few times and it was even stiffer to put back.

Failing that it's the box off. I was planning to do it in a few months anyway.
 

Mazza

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Thats a real bummer, and hope it turns out to be an easy fix...........BUT.......If you are taking the gearbox off........a write up with pictures would be really useful:whistle:
 

Daspete

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Success!!!!!

Took the slave off (not the hose), cycled it a few times until it went super stiff and put back on and it works yey!

When i say cycled it i pushed it as fat as it would go against the bell housing to push everything out of it then let it return fully before repeating.

It was a bit stiff before and it took force to push it on from about the length of the studs. But now it took real force to push it home from about 15-20 above the mounting studs.

However I've got clutch drag so a new clutch is on the cards anyway as i suspect corrosion on the surfaces. But gear changes are better with a much better pedal feel with the new cylinder.
 

t-tony

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That's good news and puts the box out job back a bit.

Tony
 

Daspete

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So to sum up for anyone reading this in the future -
It looks an easy job at first glance and yes actual fitting is childs play, getting it right is not quite as easy.

So top tips -

1) When you connect the new cylinder up leave it dangling over a container and open the bleed nipple. Keep it open until fluid is a nice constant stream. Take care to keep the reservoir full and only use gravity.

2) Close the nipple then fully cycle the cylinder pushing it fully home then let it return on it's own. Do this a fair few times.

3) Offer up the cylinder on to the studs, making sure you locate the shaft end in to the divot on the throw out lever ( if you're not sure get your fingers in the bell housing and have a feel, you'll see what i mean).

4) Bolt in the cylinder hopefully it will need alot of force to push it in from about 35mm away from home. If not don't worry just yet.

5) Bleed the cylinder properly with proper equipment, i use a gunson easy bleed. This will ensure a good bleed.

6) Once bled disconnect the kit and try the pedal. If it feels sloppy then you still have air in the cylinder.

7) Get underneath again and undo the cylinder, not the pipe!!!
Now cycle it fully multiple times until it's super stiff this will push out any remaining air. Keep doing this until when you go to refit the cylinder it needs alot of force to push it on to the studs from 30-40mm away.

Bolt it back on and you should be ready to go. The pedal should have a nice consistant feel to it now aswell.

Hope this helps
 

Daspete

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That's good news and puts the box out job back a bit.

Tony
I know, trying to prolong the clutch as i want to take the engine out too as it's leaking from everywhere. Want to fully check it over and reseal every where plus paint it so want go get a good cash buffer ready for any nasties as well as a clutch and FW etc.
 

Mazza

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Glad its sorted. :thumbsup:
 

FRANKIE

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Success!!!!!

Took the slave off (not the hose), cycled it a few times until it went super stiff and put back on and it works yey!

When i say cycled it i pushed it as fat as it would go against the bell housing to push everything out of it then let it return fully before repeating.

It was a bit stiff before and it took force to push it on from about the length of the studs. But now it took real force to push it home from about 15-20 above the mounting studs.

However I've got clutch drag so a new clutch is on the cards anyway as i suspect corrosion on the surfaces. But gear changes are better with a much better pedal feel with the new cylinder.
Happy to hear it's working.................Frankie
 

Mint

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So to sum up for anyone reading this in the future -
It looks an easy job at first glance and yes actual fitting is childs play, getting it right is not quite as easy.

So top tips -

1) When you connect the new cylinder up leave it dangling over a container and open the bleed nipple. Keep it open until fluid is a nice constant stream. Take care to keep the reservoir full and only use gravity.

2) Close the nipple then fully cycle the cylinder pushing it fully home then let it return on it's own. Do this a fair few times.

3) Offer up the cylinder on to the studs, making sure you locate the shaft end in to the divot on the throw out lever ( if you're not sure get your fingers in the bell housing and have a feel, you'll see what i mean).

4) Bolt in the cylinder hopefully it will need alot of force to push it in from about 35mm away from home. If not don't worry just yet.

5) Bleed the cylinder properly with proper equipment, i use a gunson easy bleed. This will ensure a good bleed.

6) Once bled disconnect the kit and try the pedal. If it feels sloppy then you still have air in the cylinder.

7) Get underneath again and undo the cylinder, not the pipe!!!
Now cycle it fully multiple times until it's super stiff this will push out any remaining air. Keep doing this until when you go to refit the cylinder it needs alot of force to push it on to the studs from 30-40mm away.

Bolt it back on and you should be ready to go. The pedal should have a nice consistant feel to it now aswell.

Hope this helps
Good man, pleased you sorted it. Well done for persevering:thumbsup:
 

Daspete

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Oww cock, after a short return to perfect shifting the clutch has now given up grrrr

Took the box off which was a total pain as the bolts are a pig to get to, to find that the disk was down to the rivets doh!

Think the box is on the way out too, play in the shaft. Double bugger
 
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