ABS module coding

never seen that one before, try reading EWS module again (get coding) , this will re-write the saved file on your computer.
 
Me and technology aren't the best of pals Daz, but I can solder joints ok. Got to worth a go with your old unit.

Tony.
 
Here she is in all her beauty. This is my old pump that was originally on the car I had to drill the torn heads off the bolts as there was no chance of undoing them. Anyway looking at the circuit board I can't see anything wrong but I'm no master with electrics. All the wiring looks fine so I'm stumped any ideas?
20161122_201214.webp
20161122_201657.webp
20161122_201919.webp
20161122_202421.webp
20161122_202433.webp
 
Is there any obvious discolouration on any of the soldered joints Daz. That's about the limit of my input I'm afraid.

Tony.
 
No not anything that stands out I was expecting to see a dry joint or crack but can't see anything. I'll try and get some better pictures.
 
well i have to say, your module is completely different to mine, plug it back in, then run inpa and see what it says.
 
littlefeller said:
well i have to say, your module is completely different to mine, plug it back in, then run inpa and see what it says.
Click to expand...

I also can't just change the module as all the wiring is sealed. I would have to remove the red, black and twin blue wires running to the pump but not sure if that would work or not? I'll plug it in and run inpa see what I get.
 
Daz3 said:
View attachment 45722 View attachment 45723 View attachment 45724 View attachment 45725 View attachment 45726
Click to expand...

Remind me of the year/month of your car @Daz3 , I've had a look at the wiring diagrams for the pump and can find 3 options!!

The info below is not confirmed until I find the correct diagram but looks logical to me, bearing in mind the pump is knackered it may be worth giving some of the following a try, nowt to loose.

This PCB looks to me as if you have 9 solenoids attached to the board, 4 at the top side of the board and 5 at the bottom side of the board. The 11 wires feeding the board will consist of 9 wires direct to an individual solenoid and then I suspect 2 ground wires (one for the top side and one for the bottom side?). If you have a multimeter you can check all these wires. It would also be a worth while exercise to measure the resistance across the solenoid valves individually to see if they differ, this could lead you to the problem. Looking at the size of the wiring I would suspect again that the feed will be 12vdc to each solenoid, another test could be to put a 12vdc feed across each solenoid valves individually to see if they burst in to life. From what I understand the big pump is a charge pump and supplies pressure to the fluid when the ABS kicks in, this is another area to explore, does the pump run? Again a 12vdc feed across the red and black, what happens? The blue are either a sensor or timed relay, again cannot confirm until I see a diagram.

Cheers

Brian
 
Another thought just entered my head, This looks like one of the older style pumps, the ABS ECU is not integrated in to the pump like the newer units, the bit you are trying to code is still on the car.
 
Brian H said:
Another thought just entered my head, This looks like one of the older style pumps, the ABS ECU is not integrated in to the pump like the newer units, the bit you are trying to code is still on the car.
Click to expand...

If this was the case why is my inpa not talking to the abs unit or does something else need to be done? Will have a look later for build month it's a 1997 that's all I can tell you now. I have a multimeter ready so once advised I'll carry out the tests thanks for your input much appreciated.
 
Last edited:
Daz3 said:
If this was the case why is my inpa not talking to the abs unit or does something else need to be done? Will have a look later for build month it's a 1997 that's all I can tell you now.
Click to expand...

The ABS unit on your car will consist of the ABS pump and the ABS electronics, it seems as if these are two separate units on your car, on newer units these are combined, hence other members swapping the pump and re-coding, it maybe that there is nothing wrong with your old pump.

I'll have a look later on at my ETM to see if I can track down where the ABS Electronic module is located on your car.
 
ahh, so if this build issue can be sorted i will need to change the re-coding thread title as this may change things slightly.
 
Thing is when I had the codes read before it brought up pump at fault but this was at a garage. Since I've changed the pump my abs light has gone out, however I can't get inpa to interact with the pump to find out what's happening as when I brake it feels as if the abs is kicking in. I'll put the old pump on and see if it talks to me. I have a feeling it was September 97 Brian but will confirm later. Thanks again
 
I'll also pull all my sensors out and clean at the weekend but can't see them being dirty as there all new. Unless it's a connection or wiring issue.
 
Quick Question @Daz3, have you changed any wiring at your throttle body during your recent works?
 
The asc throttle body is removed but still have the sensors etc plugged in. I was aiming to remove the unit that controls the cable for the throttle body at some point which involves putting a resistor in place from what I've read about it.
 
Last edited:
Daz3 said:
The asc throttle body is removed but still have the sensors etc plugged in. I was aiming to remove the unit that controls the cable for the throttle body at some point which involves putting a resistor in place from what I've read about it.
Click to expand...
OK this is interesting as the throttle body sensor signal to the same slip control module as the ABS.

Sorry to ask this as you have probably already answered it, the stage you are now up to is: -
New ABS module is in the car and the ABS light has now extinguished, the ABS kicks in when you drive?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top