Rebody 507 Tribute Build thread

Please forgive my naivety, as I have no clue, and am just starting to 'gear up' for my build, but is there not a way of junking the BMW locking system and going 'old school'; ie no central locking and no deadlocking? I would like my build to be as 1960s authentic as possible. I would be happy with a key for the doors and a separate key for the ignition. Or am I missing the point?

This is what I have.

Mine was done by Classic Coachworks, but I think they did it because they deadlocked the car and had to do some butchering to get in. It was a solution to a problem rather than by design.

It works well.
 
But the central locking also activates the immobiliser. Tell your insurer that you'd disabled the immobiliser and they'll probably force to to have an aftermarket one instead. Or you'll have to use the z3 key just to enable/disable the immobiliser before using your old style key to unlock the door.

The central locking doesn't (de)activate the immobiliser. The induction ring around the ignition lock is thing that (de)activates the immobiliser.

My car has a separate alarm and immobiliser, so it doesn't really affect me, but the alarm and the central locking are what is connected. You can arm the alarm even though the central locking has been disconnected.
 
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a little more reasonable £299.
The plunger pin is a bolt so you could add along bolt if needed to get more push or trimmed to fit.

search on eBay,

CLASSIC ALFA ROMEO GIULIETTA, FERRARI 250, MASERATI DOOR HANDLE KIT DOOR CHROMED
 
Today was like the hokey cokey with the bootlid, on off on off. Eventually a 2mm thick washer under one bolt made the lid line up😁
I welded the locating ball back onto the bracket so both gas struts would work. These are the original Z3 hinges so the struts push on the hinges and not the bodywork or boot skin so it should not cause warping to the skin at a later date.
. . . .
View attachment 231518

Did you add a weather strip/trim around the boot opening to keep the water out?
 
Did you add a weather strip/trim around the boot opening to keep the water out?
Yes I did. I bought the trim from Woolies Trim and used the large 20mm size. Im about to buy the smaller 14mm version as I think the bigger size maybe what’s stooping the boot lining up with the wing.
 
Rear lights are Volvo P1800 units
Generic Lucas P700 tribar headlights.
VW Karmann ghia indicators with the metal housing. Tribute are doing an alternative set up using round Lucas lights as the VW’s are quite hard to locate and expensive. You will have the choice when ordering I believe

@Dxbolton Please tell me about those front indicators. The outer metal housing you mentioned. Is it chrome or body color? How is that attached to the body? Is there some kind of bracket? Did you take a picture of it before bolting it on?

Thanks :)
 
Mine are metal Karman Ghia indicator lamps. I have painted them body colour, Steve has bought chrome ones, I made a small metal bracket that I glassed to the body, and the large nut on the rear light then secured it all together
 

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I got ones for an old VW bus

Screenshot_20231208-194652_Gallery.webp


I suspect it'll be the same part on the ghia.

I got with orange hella lens. Metal is red!

Screenshot_20231208-193440_Chrome.webp


I can change the color but was thinking of ways to mount to the body and still have access to change a bulb.

Thanks! :)
 
I think they are the same between various VW’s of the era. I painted mine to match the car and went with orange bulbs instead of orange glass.
they are quite easy to remove if I have to
 
Hello @Dxbolton
Can I ask. What wing mirror have you used?
Does it work OK where it is?
Thanks
It’s an early VW or Porsche mirror with a long stem. Bought from eBay
It does work after getting the angle right which took a lot of time!
however I prefer to shoulder check what’s outside similar to riding a bike, as the mirror is more a style piece than truely functional
 
Hi, as a newbie to this forum, I am late to this party and feel like I am sitting in the kitchen surrounded by empty bottles and the washing up! However, i have reviewed all the excellent content in this thread, your questions, answers and detail discussions have answered many of the questions that i had. Before making a final decision and buying a doner car/kit I am going to review what is on show at the national kit car show at the beginning of June. Are any of you taking your cars to this event as it would be great to see them and learn more about your experiences.
 
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Well after 18 months of great fun in gelcoat, it’s time for paint.
so front wing tops have had the flat spots removed, door gaps are being made tighter, fuel flap is reshaped to contour of the rear body, and a few other parts tidied up. October is when the paint shop gets the car 😁
 

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Well after 18 months of great fun in gelcoat, it’s time for paint.
so front wing tops have had the flat spots removed, door gaps are being made tighter, fuel flap is reshaped to contour of the rear body, and a few other parts tidied up. October is when the paint shop gets the car 😁

The flat spot on the driver's side wing. Did that go well?

If you've seen my build thread you'll know that I'm not afraid of choppin, fixin and fettling but I do worry about if I can do a good job of that flat spot. It's pretty big and getting the shape right will be difficult I think.

Looking forward to seeing your car painted. Mine's nowhere near ready.
 
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