2.0 Refurb Project

Woodsta888

Zorg Legend
British Zeds
Joined
Mar 18, 2012
Points
74
Location
Exmouth, Devon
Model of Z
2.0
Right then so! Finished the back end now apart from a couple of brake pipe clips, the spare wheel carrier and bleed the brakes. Bought a compressor brake bleeder that draws through from the reservoir by vacuum. Dunno how good these are and I did buy a cheap version but it didn't look any different from some more expensive ones. As long as it can create a seal then it should work.

Here's a pic or two of my rear end :oops:, please shout out for any obvious howlers.
IMG_3161.JPG
IMG_3162.JPG



I have got two bits leftover and cant see them from REALOEM diagrams. - They look like some plastic clips went on the pointy bits - any thoughts?


IMG_3165.JPG


Then onto the front, much less to do up here, already ordered the parts but didn't realise Monroe don't make springs for the front. The ones on there don't look too bad. The discs are newish. Gonna rebuild the brake calipers. I'd already Done the sill to the front wheel arch but need to sort out some underside scrapes that have gone through the underseal.

IMG_3166.JPG


IMG_3168.JPG



And can I take the cross member off, the bit with the orange sticker on?

IMG_3170.JPG


Still surprised how good this car is underneath for 156,000 miles. I've refurbed 2 of the wheels I got from Lee which I'm quite pleased with.

Another question.

Lower Wishbones; I have polybushes for the two ends and one wishbone is recent, can you buy replacement centre bushes, the sticking up one, or do I have to get a new wishbone? In the image above you can see the wishbone on the RHS and it's the bush on the bottom right of the pic. Any knowledge would be helpful.

Wife away this weekend so bleed brakes which I've never done before.
STrip out front suspension,
Remove and treat rest of rusty bits on front of chassis and rear of front wheel well.
 

t-tony

Zorg Expert (II)
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British Zeds
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Joined
Dec 31, 2013
Points
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Location
Torksey Lock,Lincoln, England
Model of Z
E89 Z4 23i Auto
Right then so! Finished the back end now apart from a couple of brake pipe clips, the spare wheel carrier and bleed the brakes. Bought a compressor brake bleeder that draws through from the reservoir by vacuum. Dunno how good these are and I did buy a cheap version but it didn't look any different from some more expensive ones. As long as it can create a seal then it should work.

Here's a pic or two of my rear end :oops:, please shout out for any obvious howlers.
View attachment 205245View attachment 205249


I have got two bits leftover and cant see them from REALOEM diagrams. - They look like some plastic clips went on the pointy bits - any thoughts?


View attachment 205251

Then onto the front, much less to do up here, already ordered the parts but didn't realise Monroe don't make springs for the front. The ones on there don't look too bad. The discs are newish. Gonna rebuild the brake calipers. I'd already Done the sill to the front wheel arch but need to sort out some underside scrapes that have gone through the underseal.

View attachment 205253

View attachment 205261


And can I take the cross member off, the bit with the orange sticker on?

View attachment 205257

Still surprised how good this car is underneath for 156,000 miles. I've refurbed 2 of the wheels I got from Lee which I'm quite pleased with.

Another question.

Lower Wishbones; I have polybushes for the two ends and one wishbone is recent, can you buy replacement centre bushes, the sticking up one, or do I have to get a new wishbone? In the image above you can see the wishbone on the RHS and it's the bush on the bottom right of the pic. Any knowledge would be helpful.

Wife away this weekend so bleed brakes which I've never done before.
STrip out front suspension,
Remove and treat rest of rusty bits on front of chassis and rear of front wheel well.
The centre "sticking up ones" are ball joint with a nut on the top end above the chassis leg. You can replace the ball joints but you will have to buy the tool to do it with. It really is more cost effective to replace the whole arm, complete with 2 new ball joints.

Tony.
 

Woodsta888

Zorg Legend
British Zeds
Joined
Mar 18, 2012
Points
74
Location
Exmouth, Devon
Model of Z
2.0
The centre "sticking up ones" are ball joint with a nut on the top end above the chassis leg. You can replace the ball joints but you will have to buy the tool to do it with. It really is more cost effective to replace the whole arm, complete with 2 new ball joints.

Tony.

Ah OK, thanks Tony, I thought as much but confirmation from a professional is very welcome. The RHS wishbone was only a year old when I SORNED the car, so just a LHS one to buy. Thanks again. S
 

Nodzed

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t-tony

Zorg Expert (II)
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British Zeds
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Location
Torksey Lock,Lincoln, England
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E89 Z4 23i Auto
No Niall, anyway I’m now retired.=))

Tony.
 

Woodsta888

Zorg Legend
British Zeds
Joined
Mar 18, 2012
Points
74
Location
Exmouth, Devon
Model of Z
2.0
Hi All, been a while, I have made quite a bit of progress recently and have yet to post some front end progression photos, as I'd completed the rear end.

I'm nearly there mechanically, just some welding of the sills (if I can) and some professional paint. I'll have a go at anything, but my brother in law has given me a decent paint guy for some cash in hand. Rebuilt and de-rusted everything. Will post some pics on how effective Bilt HAmber Deox-C stuff is. Brilliant stuff! Just ducked a log burner left outside it it (in bits of course).

My Q is; Engine mounts - how easy?

Was under there today and noticed mine are very perished and most likely original (156k Miles). I've replaced every other bush, springs shock etc - shame to leave these out. Mine are shot.

Is this an easy job? Where would you jack on the engine? Which manufacturer's mounts would you go for?

Any guidance much appreciated, thanks in advance
 
Last edited:

t-tony

Zorg Expert (II)
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British Zeds
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Location
Torksey Lock,Lincoln, England
Model of Z
E89 Z4 23i Auto
You're ok jacking under the engine (it's the only way to lift it), but, have a nice thick block of wood on the jack to protect the sump.
The engine mountings are oil filled from new so if they have leaked there will be some evidence of that. Personally I would change one at a time rather than doing both at the same time, but that's just how I would do it.

Tony.
 

Althulas

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t-tony

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Nice job!

Tony.
 
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Reactions: Lee

Woodsta888

Zorg Legend
British Zeds
Joined
Mar 18, 2012
Points
74
Location
Exmouth, Devon
Model of Z
2.0
Hi all,

Front shocks - I have normal spring compressors with the hooks, but having trouble squishing the spring enough to get the top mount on. - do I need some macpherson type spring compressor? Thanks in advance. S
 

DrWong

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May 8, 2017
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I managed to do it with two sets of compressors (i.e. four compressors) staggered across each spring, with some ratchet straps for added effect/safety. Still felt sketchy AF haha. The US Pro 6255 compressors are meant to be a step up from normal ones (pics below) and I'll prob get some for when I next do shocks (either my own car or someone else's). Macpherson jobbies would be better still but they're obviously pricey etc. Maybe see if your local garage can do it?

1652201600802.png
 

t-tony

Zorg Expert (II)
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British Zeds
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Points
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Location
Torksey Lock,Lincoln, England
Model of Z
E89 Z4 23i Auto
Well I too have been there and have scars and a piece of plastic glasses lens under my skin to prove it. From a front spring off a Peugeit 205 which came adrift. This was 2 weeks before our first trip to Florida in 1994. I wasn't allowed to drive so Shirl was thrown in at the deep end. Be careful.

Tony.
 

Woodsta888

Zorg Legend
British Zeds
Joined
Mar 18, 2012
Points
74
Location
Exmouth, Devon
Model of Z
2.0
Cheers all, I could get some more compressors etc, but I think I'm gonna take it to the local garage. For what it'll cost it just ain't worth it, £85 for the cheapest macpherson press which is prolly from china.
 

Woodsta888

Zorg Legend
British Zeds
Joined
Mar 18, 2012
Points
74
Location
Exmouth, Devon
Model of Z
2.0
Gettin' there on the front now. Just cant get the hose off the coupling for the brake caliper. Need some propane for the torch and try some heat.

Had my springs mounted on to shocks by a local garage. So just reassembling the front end now.

Comparred to others the corrosion on the underside and inner cills wasn't too bad. Only place I've moticed it went right through was next to the front bumper mountings in the wheel arch with the underbody seal/dampening gunge hiding it. Under where the top front panel in the engine bay that the lights sit in, meet the wheel arch, so cant be seen easily from the top. Both sides I had a hole right through about the size of a 50p. Didnt take any pics of this, dunno why.

Anyway, here's some pics of the front end going back together.
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Oh, and the spare wheel and carrier reinstalled. Hope I'm never gonna have to use it in gold. BEtter than rust, just
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