That part number was for the ///M you will need to check on real oem that it’s the same for your model.
2.0 Refurb Project
- Thread starter Woodsta888
- Start date
Thanks @Althulas for your knowledge.
Been a bit quiet this week as I was waiting on a couple of tools. One I didn't need. The one I did (11mm brake spanner) didn't help and I ended up shearing through a brake-pipe. Needs replacing anyway looking at them, thus another skill to learn.
I did do some de-greasing and cleaning off the underside to find rust or bubbling that need treating.
![IMG_3081[1].JPG](https://zroadster.org/attachments/img_3081-1-jpg.147751/)
![IMG_3082[1].JPG](https://zroadster.org/attachments/img_3082-1-jpg.147753/)
Got the first trailing arm off!. Transmission boots look in good nick, handbrake pads have been replaced and still good. Looks worse in the pics than it is for rust.
AND some rear end parts turned up. Shocks, Springs, dust covers and rear drop links.
2 websites that are .co.uk but look different from each other, but are the same company, and the stuff is shipped from Germany! Clever marketing as I didn't really look until I went to look at the shipping status. They are usually about 20% saving so fill your basket and wait. Have seem it go to 30% off before. So took a little longer but if you change your mind for any reason within 100 days without fitting, for £4 they'll collect it (option at purchase).
Drop the other side tomorrow if I can get the handbrake cable out of the rear end so I don't have to disconnect from the front.
Oh! and looking forward to picking up the MV2's from @ Lee on Monday. Hoping to get a look at a completed restoration, and a chance to pick his knowledgeable brains. Bit of a drive from Exmouth but looking forward to it.
Been a bit quiet this week as I was waiting on a couple of tools. One I didn't need. The one I did (11mm brake spanner) didn't help and I ended up shearing through a brake-pipe. Needs replacing anyway looking at them, thus another skill to learn.
I did do some de-greasing and cleaning off the underside to find rust or bubbling that need treating.
Got the first trailing arm off!. Transmission boots look in good nick, handbrake pads have been replaced and still good. Looks worse in the pics than it is for rust.
AND some rear end parts turned up. Shocks, Springs, dust covers and rear drop links.
2 websites that are .co.uk but look different from each other, but are the same company, and the stuff is shipped from Germany! Clever marketing as I didn't really look until I went to look at the shipping status. They are usually about 20% saving so fill your basket and wait. Have seem it go to 30% off before. So took a little longer but if you change your mind for any reason within 100 days without fitting, for £4 they'll collect it (option at purchase).
Drop the other side tomorrow if I can get the handbrake cable out of the rear end so I don't have to disconnect from the front.
Oh! and looking forward to picking up the MV2's from @ Lee on Monday. Hoping to get a look at a completed restoration, and a chance to pick his knowledgeable brains. Bit of a drive from Exmouth but looking forward to it.
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SO ready to drop the LH rear trailing arm, but can I get the !*!*!*!*ing handbrake cable out of the hub!!! The drivers side with a wiggle from some grips just pulled out. LH side has had 24 hrs of WD40 reapplied every few hours. Any tips?
Undo from the handbrake and pull out. Once you have the whole arm off clamp the cable in a vice and pull. If it’s that rusted you might have to apply some heat. Cables were only £25 from BMW sopers. My old cable ran ok but the other sheaf was broken where I could not see I know it’s another expense but while everything is out was nice to replace and will last another 20 years.
Right, well still couldn't get handbrake cable from the hub so as Althulas said, undid from the handbrake, the outer sheath was worn anyway.
But, the whole rear end is out now.
Can't afford powder coating so went for RUST BUSTER epoxy mastic for the covering. Wish I'd applied this to the sills.
Just for info the 1.25 ltr starter packs cover 5 sq metres so should be enough to do all I need (I hope). Colour wise I've gone for Metallic aluminum just for something different.
And I took a drive to the 'Zedshed' to pick up these 18's from Lee.
Bit of light kerbing on the very edges and I thought was only going to be able to refurb professionally. But after a read up, seems this is well within my grasp with an alloy repair kit. May get them re powder coated one day. Dark satin bronze maybe? I may do a separate thread for the wheel repairs (depending how they turn out).
And thanks to @Lee at the Zedshed. Spent a good hour or two allowing me to download his Zed knowledge and showing/explaining many refurbs I thought were hard. So thanks again Lee for your kind offer of help when I need it.
Bought some bearing pullers to get the hubs off. My wheel bearings feel nice and smooth still so may leave these in.
Much degreasing, rust removal, treating and painting to be done so may post some in between pics.
I've really been enjoying doing this work as it has given me a sense of achievement and to learn new skills.
But, the whole rear end is out now.
Can't afford powder coating so went for RUST BUSTER epoxy mastic for the covering. Wish I'd applied this to the sills.
Just for info the 1.25 ltr starter packs cover 5 sq metres so should be enough to do all I need (I hope). Colour wise I've gone for Metallic aluminum just for something different.
And I took a drive to the 'Zedshed' to pick up these 18's from Lee.
Bit of light kerbing on the very edges and I thought was only going to be able to refurb professionally. But after a read up, seems this is well within my grasp with an alloy repair kit. May get them re powder coated one day. Dark satin bronze maybe? I may do a separate thread for the wheel repairs (depending how they turn out).
And thanks to @Lee at the Zedshed. Spent a good hour or two allowing me to download his Zed knowledge and showing/explaining many refurbs I thought were hard. So thanks again Lee for your kind offer of help when I need it.
Bought some bearing pullers to get the hubs off. My wheel bearings feel nice and smooth still so may leave these in.
Much degreasing, rust removal, treating and painting to be done so may post some in between pics.
I've really been enjoying doing this work as it has given me a sense of achievement and to learn new skills.
Great job mate 
You’re taking the rear end off in bits to manoeuvre it around the exhaust which is being left in place, right? Prob the approach I’ll take when I get round to it
Epoxy is great stuff, I put Lechlar epoxy primer on my inner sills and it’s holding up really well
You’re taking the rear end off in bits to manoeuvre it around the exhaust which is being left in place, right? Prob the approach I’ll take when I get round to itEpoxy is great stuff, I put Lechlar epoxy primer on my inner sills and it’s holding up really well
Coming along nicely. Lots of cleaning there, that’s the crap bit but once all painted up it feels so good. I don’t see why you can’t add the mastic over the sills still as another layer of protection but your work should see you ok if a after winter take off sills and clean every year as maintenance.
Your welcome mate. Was good to chat.
If you still have the handbrake cable stuck in the arm we cut the cable and pull it out. Once out we slid a punch through one of the wheel bolt holes and knock them out. Never had one stick using this method.
Yes thats right, I removed both trailing arms which is doable if you get a load of extensions on a socket and let a ring spanner bind against the body. The diff and the rear beam came out together but to be honest the bolts holding the diff to the beam which are on top, with a week or two's intermittent soaking with penetrating oil would have come undone with a ring spanner. Was a lot easier maneuvering just the beam and diff. The exhaust is hung on wire as you have to let it down a bit for the beam bush ends to clear the threaded studs from the body. Was still a bit of wiggling needed but managed this by myself, one jack and some supporting pieces of wood and of course some obligatory swearing!Great job mate
Epoxy is great stuff, I put Lechlar epoxy primer on my inner sills and it’s holding up really well
Hi cheers!
I used original Waxoyl undercoat which never really dries and is always tacky so probably not the best substrate for a rock hard epoxy resin to go onto. I reckon it won't bond and just crack. Could try an area I suppose and see how well it fares over time.
Yep It'll have to be punched out, it's knackered anyway from slipping with grips so the outer sheath is broken now so once out I'll replace - I think the other side was replaced at some point.
What's the method for getting the locking ring off the 30mm wheel hub bolt? Prize off and buy new locking rings?
Thanks in advance.....
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I used a combination of small punches to get that locking tab out the way, then just undo the nut I think it’s a 30mm. I don’t bother with them again I use thread lock and FT tightness. The shaft should just knock out then.
If you have a 27mm spanner remove the pins that the beam slides down on. Makes solo working so much easier on reassembly.
Ordered 27mm spanner. Need rear beam pins out of the way to get in behind to treat that area. Top tip for re installation cheers
Also last night I ordered some half decent 3/8 and 1/4 ratchets. I have a Britool 1/2 inch but Sealey stuff isn't too badly priced and have lifetime warranties. £60 in tools since last night. Oh and some 3/8 metric 6pt sockets that are thinner and shorter than the impact ones I have.
Also last night I ordered some half decent 3/8 and 1/4 ratchets. I have a Britool 1/2 inch but Sealey stuff isn't too badly priced and have lifetime warranties. £60 in tools since last night. Oh and some 3/8 metric 6pt sockets that are thinner and shorter than the impact ones I have.
Yes your right it won’t stick to wax oil. It will have to come off and surface prepped again. Something to look forward 
Hindsight is sh*** sometimes.
Hindsight is sh*** sometimes.Right, bit of cleaning thisavo after work, my rear beam doesn't look too bad after degreasing and jet washer.
Other half wasn't too happy after I hadn't noticed that all the oily black muck was now splattered over every white rendered wall in our small back garden. MOOOAARR cleaning!
Then onto the underside with degreaser and a garden sprayer with clean water for rinsing.
One of my tank straps seems fine - may have been replaced. Other one not so good. I wonder if Mazza does................... 1/2 sets ;-)
Waiting for some tools to turn up and getting the bushes extricated before rust removal and treating the beam and trailing arms. Diff overhaul doesn't look too bad on youtube, so may do that. I'll at least swap out the oil which was done a few years ago, but as it's out and for the cost of the oil may as well do it again and treat the last lot as a flush.
Other half wasn't too happy after I hadn't noticed that all the oily black muck was now splattered over every white rendered wall in our small back garden. MOOOAARR cleaning!
Then onto the underside with degreaser and a garden sprayer with clean water for rinsing.
One of my tank straps seems fine - may have been replaced. Other one not so good. I wonder if Mazza does................... 1/2 sets ;-)
Waiting for some tools to turn up and getting the bushes extricated before rust removal and treating the beam and trailing arms. Diff overhaul doesn't look too bad on youtube, so may do that. I'll at least swap out the oil which was done a few years ago, but as it's out and for the cost of the oil may as well do it again and treat the last lot as a flush.
Cracking job Steve. I would just buy one of Mazza’s kits and be done with it.
Get yourself a wire wheel on a drill and clean up the diff. I was doing that today on another LSD.
Get yourself a wire wheel on a drill and clean up the diff. I was doing that today on another LSD.
Oh I meant it as tongue in cheek on the mazza straps, sorry. I sound like a right miser!
The other looks worse so probably will be.
I got a good set of grindy stuff, I need the edge wire wheel though, with the wire to be used in the same plane as the disc.
@ all
The epoxy stuff I got was for steel. Am I better leaving the aluminum part of the diff bare or will a coat of steel epoxy resin not harm it?
Thanks in advance
I just paint the body of the diff because the ally cleans up well with a wheel quickly. It’s so hard to pick up sarcasm on here, plus didn’t help me skim reading your post
Been a couplo weeks since any progress has been made.
Waiting for tools (12T press) and other bits and bobs.
Also had to get back flying now the restrictions have been lifted. I've just bought a share in an aircraft now and it's one I haven't flown, so the group of course want a type rating on this aircraft, £500+ for a couple of hours with an instructor in a club aircraft, and at a very busy Dunkeswell, 5-8 aircraft in the circuit AND parachuting into the middle of it. 'Head on a swivel' is an understatement.
Spent a few hours here and there cleaning up rust;
From this
To this;
And just this morning degreased, rinsed and treated with Hydrate 80. I think I'm gonna get some seam sealer to go over the top of this with a thicker application as I'll not be going back here hopefully again for a while.
Blasted my diff off too - in two minds whilst its out to refurb the diff. Not looked into costs for parts etc. Dunno, I keep adding job after job.
Also done some stripping down of the lower front wings (pics later) and they are quite rusty at the bottom behind the seam sealer. If anything it held the water instead of repelling it. Dunno if it's worth getting a new pair instead.
Waiting for tools (12T press) and other bits and bobs.
Also had to get back flying now the restrictions have been lifted. I've just bought a share in an aircraft now and it's one I haven't flown, so the group of course want a type rating on this aircraft, £500+ for a couple of hours with an instructor in a club aircraft, and at a very busy Dunkeswell, 5-8 aircraft in the circuit AND parachuting into the middle of it. 'Head on a swivel' is an understatement.
Spent a few hours here and there cleaning up rust;
From this
To this;
And just this morning degreased, rinsed and treated with Hydrate 80. I think I'm gonna get some seam sealer to go over the top of this with a thicker application as I'll not be going back here hopefully again for a while.
Blasted my diff off too - in two minds whilst its out to refurb the diff. Not looked into costs for parts etc. Dunno, I keep adding job after job.
Also done some stripping down of the lower front wings (pics later) and they are quite rusty at the bottom behind the seam sealer. If anything it held the water instead of repelling it. Dunno if it's worth getting a new pair instead.
After I acid etched my metal, I followed with etch primer than two pac epoxy paint, then seam sealered and added my top coats of paint after.,I used bilt hamber epoxy but will be getting some leachers as Dr Wong used in his build much cheaper.
Nice to be back in a plane I bet expensive hobby though.
Nice to be back in a plane I bet expensive hobby though.
I did just see Dr Wongs thread and saw an acid etch like DEOX gel. Does look like a much more thorough rust killer. The Hydrate 80 does have rust killer in it. Time will tell if my easier chosen method lasts. On the sills I did literally grind back most of the pitted stuff, losing some sill material and letting the Hydrate 80 work on any I'd missed. So I hope I put more prep into removing rust rather than let the gel do it's stuff or an acid etch. Next time I think I'd use the acid etch type stuff as time wise, it's probably the same.
FLying yeah - only need two things to go flying; Airspeed and Money.
Not getting much change from £220/hr hiring a commercially maintained club aircraft. (every 50 hrs needs £2-3,000 MOT). MOst clubs want you to stay current which means flying every 30-35 days minimum. Syndicate = £90 flat monthly fee then £76/hr wet, So 1st hr probably nearly the same but subsequent hours much cheaper. Plus of course the refundable cost of the aircraft share when you decide to leave. Nothing fancy or vintage just a 1976 Cessna 172M (4 seater). Ultra lights or microlights are much cheaper to run it's just I'm a big heavy chap and I'd never be able to take passengers if I had something cheaper. Just for reference a 4 seater piper warrior fully fueled, only has 30 stone left over, I'm 17.5 stone, so even in a 4 seater can still only take someone that is 12.5 stone max with the rear seats empty.
I’m pretty sure Deox gel would take much, much longer than grinding + Hydrate80. It was weeks and weeks until I got through the deepest pitting. But it really does work and is really benign to good metal.
I also thought Deox worked through acid but subsequently learned it works through a chemical bonding process called chelation. The Deox binds to rust ions and literally lifts them off the steel (according to t’interwebs). Clever stuff.
Good work on the cleaning up btw