Help Please. My 2.8 Auto Roadster (89,000 miles) keeps letting me down, usually at busy traffic intersections! It has the M52 B28 engine.
I have been towed home by the AA three times in the last week. There are no fault codes showing, and no dashboard lights on at all. I have had a professional mechanic change the fuel pump with a quality replacement pump along with a new fuel pump relay. Car starts and runs beautifully. Then once it has warmed up, it stalls and will not restart. The battery is healthy. Cranking strongly. Sometimes, once cooled down, it will start again and seems to run fine for a while, only to repeat the previous behaviour - usually at busy roundabouts. I am now in a position that I cannot trust the car at all, as I know it will let me down sooner or later usually in a dangerous spot.
The last AA man suggested maybe the ECU box could be suspect as the fault manifests itself when warm and then reinstates once cooled down. He suggested (maybe) a solder weakness on printed circuit board inside the unit. Please can anybody suggest what I could do next to resolve this? I am totally out of ideas, and have already spent quite a lot trying to get this fixed. There were no fault codes whatsoever showing when I had a diagnostic done on professional equipment. I cannot use the car anymore until I get this sorted.
I have been towed home by the AA three times in the last week. There are no fault codes showing, and no dashboard lights on at all. I have had a professional mechanic change the fuel pump with a quality replacement pump along with a new fuel pump relay. Car starts and runs beautifully. Then once it has warmed up, it stalls and will not restart. The battery is healthy. Cranking strongly. Sometimes, once cooled down, it will start again and seems to run fine for a while, only to repeat the previous behaviour - usually at busy roundabouts. I am now in a position that I cannot trust the car at all, as I know it will let me down sooner or later usually in a dangerous spot.
The last AA man suggested maybe the ECU box could be suspect as the fault manifests itself when warm and then reinstates once cooled down. He suggested (maybe) a solder weakness on printed circuit board inside the unit. Please can anybody suggest what I could do next to resolve this? I am totally out of ideas, and have already spent quite a lot trying to get this fixed. There were no fault codes whatsoever showing when I had a diagnostic done on professional equipment. I cannot use the car anymore until I get this sorted.
