Rebody Z3 Donor - Options and other rebody questions -> 507 Build the "green one"

[Duncodin]

I am planning on going with the 507, however it will be 12+ weeks for delivery. I still like the idea of a working bonnet, but I know you have all looked into this option, so the fallback would be the wing/side modification.

Working bonnet. Do you mean like this?

I don't think this is hard to do. Anyone who doesn't do it has simply decided they don't need it.

I don't need it but I'll do it. It's on my ToDo list.

Bear in mind that with the bonnet open you don't have access to the fuse box or brake fluid. But the bonnet open in the above picture does look cool.

 

[ruan]

Yes that is what I mean but I want to see if there is any scope to make it a bit more practical ( wider?)

 

[Duncodin]

Yes that is what I mean but I want to see if there is any scope to make it a bit more practical ( wider?)

Everything is possible. Just depends how much chopping you want to do.

But a wider bonnet insert would probably look bad. ie out of proportion.

But also very difficult. Look at this picture.

You see the black tube I've got running just to the side of the bonnet insert. (That's the trunking for my wires to the front right lights.) That tube is screwed to the underside of the shell. The shell is double skinned at that point so making the bonnet insert wider even by just a couple inches would need you to cut out the double skin where my black tube is. Lot of work and, as I said, would probably look totally weird.

 

[Duncodin]

Everything is possible. Just depends how much chopping you want to do.

But a wider bonnet insert would probably look bad. ie out of proportion.

But also very difficult. Look at this picture.

View attachment 304035

You see the black tube I've got running just to the side of the bonnet insert. (That's the trunking for my wires to the front right lights.) That tube is screwed to the underside of the shell. The shell is double skinned at that point so making the bonnet insert wider even by just a couple inches would need you to cut out the double skin where my black tube is. Lot of work and, as I said, would probably look totally weird.

If your reason for making the bonnet wider would be to gain access to the brake fluid container and to the fuse box then It's not going to work. It might get access to the brake fluid but the fuse box is, kinda, behind the wheel arch so below the wheel arch bulge. You could never make the bonnet that wide.

 

[Pond]

That will be my new go to place

Seriously....don't do that. You will want to give up before you begin.

Had a new issue today with the boot lid being slightly twisted, so sits proud on the nearside rear corner. No idea how I'm gonna get over that little 'aberration'. Kit cars are terrible! If I knew then what I know now, I would have saved the £40,000 and bought an Emira! Or any excellent example of a British Classic.

 

[Duncodin]

Seriously....don't do that. You will want to give up before you begin.

Had a new issue today with the boot lid being slightly twisted, so sits proud on the nearside rear corner. No idea how I'm gonna get over that little 'aberration'. Kit cars are terrible! If I knew then what I know now, I would have saved the £40,000 and bought an Emira! Or any excellent example of a British Classic.

£40K what'd'y spend 40K on? I'm around £5K in. If I thought I was ever going to spend anything near 40K I'd set fire to it and cut my losses now.

 

[Pond]

40K what'd'y spend 40K on? I'm around £5K in. If I thought I was ever going to spend anything near 40K I'd set fire to it and cut my losses now.

Car was £6k.
Bodykit, brackets, windscreen wipers, wheels, headlights, tail lights, other lights, window switches and interior GRP (and other useless s***) were £15,000. I know..I was robbed!
Bumpers....£2,000
Bits from Russell at Grassbank (door handles, boot handle, 3D printed light lenses (and his brilliant bits of wire) £1,000. He ain't cheap, you know!
ummmmm......
Steering wheel £500
Badges £300 (yes £300)
Interior door furniture £500
Period front and rear foglights and a reversing light £150
Consumables £500 (easily by the time it's done)
Screws, nuts, washers, bits and pieces (mostly S/S) £500 (easily)
Instruments £1,200
Used MGB seat frames, new foams, new everything £350
Paint and final prep will be (at least) £4,000
Interior bits and pieces will be at least £500
Interior trim; seat covers, dash, GRP trimming, carpets, etc, etc £3,000
New roof and rear window £500 (minimum)
Bespoke exhaust £2,000 (easily)

Makes £38,000.

Other bits and bobs will easily make it up to £40,000. Easy to forget about the bits and bobs. Tigerseal is £10 a tube (and I need a lot). Filler is £20 a tub and doesn't go far. Decent sanding pads ain't cheap.

Oh....and tyres £500. I spent £1,000 on engine servicing when I got the Z3 (all new gaskets, brake fluid, oil, filters, plugs, VANOS rebuild, disks and pads all round). It soon adds up!

 

[Pond]

I'm around £5K in.

I will bet you in for are much, much more than that, if you include everything you have to pay for that you don't already have. Even if you do have it already you still paid for it once (unless you stole it).

 

[Duncodin]

I will bet you in for are much, much more than that, if you include everything you have to pay for that you don't already have. Even if you do have it already you still paid for it once (unless you stole it).

I really can't think what else.

I bought the kit for just under 4K. Spent around 1K on lights and stuff to make it road legal.

Remember I'm not kicking the a*se out of the interior. Not buying bumpers for 2K not trying to make a near replica.

I guess you and I are in different places. You have a pile of bits that cost you a fortune and only see the bad in everything while I'm doing tons of work that didn't even need doing because I'm loving it and just want the build to last even longer. I'm sticking a ton of hours into it but, seriously, not much money at all.

 

[Pond]

I guess you and I are in different places. You have a pile of bits that cost you a fortune and only see the bad in everything while I'm doing tons of work that didn't even need doing because I'm loving it and just want the build to last even longer. I'm sticking a ton of hours into it but, seriously, not much money at all.

Different places, different builds, different mindset. You crack on and have fun. Meanwhile I will keep spending my hard-earned and moaning about it!

 

[ruan]

@All, assuming that my Z3 will be on axel stands for at least 12 months (I have been told that i am not alowed to rush it !!!!) while I fit the rebody kit, what precautions do I need to take to preserve the mechanics etc? For example the hood will be down all this time, can I just leave it down with a towel in it or should I remove it? Is there anything I can do to stop the brake disks from rusting? What else do I need to consider?

 

[ruan]

@All, what are the prefered brands and suppliers for fillers, adhesives and fiberglass? Deposit paid for 507 kit .

 

[ruan]

507 defects in the moulds.
I am aware of the issue with the front left headlight moulding and the flat spot on the top of the front right wing, are there any other items that I should ask Chris if he can resolve/improve ?

 

[Duncodin]

@All, assuming that my Z3 will be on axel stands for at least 12 months (I have been told that i am not alowed to rush it !!!!) while I fit the rebody kit, what precautions do I need to take to preserve the mechanics etc? For example the hood will be down all this time, can I just leave it down with a towel in it or should I remove it? Is there anything I can do to stop the brake disks from rusting? What else do I need to consider?

I'll take much longer that 12 months. But I'm driving the car and not leaving it on stands. Once I had the body bolted down, bit of sanding, bonnet mods and lights fitted I was out driving it. Looked like a rat rod, like it had been dragged out of a field. But a drive is the tonic I need to keep at it.

Too many builds are abandoned when the car is in bits for months and the builder losses the vision.

Why does the hood need to stay down? I spend weeks working on one end of the car so no reason why the roof can't be up. Maybe get a cover so you can protect most of the car fromndust when working on one corner.

Brands of fillers etc. I think a sheet of fibre glass or resin is much the same wherever you buy it. Halfords do a decent sized tin of fibral filler about half the price of Isopon. But I kinda feel that Isopon has more glass in it. Just go for it and figure out what works for you.

 

[Duncodin]

507 defects in the moulds.
I am aware of the issue with the front left headlight moulding and the flat spot on the top of the front right wing, are there any other items that I should ask Chris if he can resolve/improve ?

I don't think tribute will change the moulds just for you. He's aware of the 'issues' and I'm sure they'll get sorted eventually but it's very early days for the 507 so I suspect it'll be a while till we see revision No. 2

 

[ruan]

I don't think tribute will change the moulds just for you. He's aware of the 'issues' and I'm sure they'll get sorted eventually but it's very early days for the 507 so I suspect it'll be a while till we see revision No. 2

As I see it the more helpfull feedback we can give Chris the more likely he is to make improvements (not saying that individuals shouldn't continue to make there own improvements - I hope to! ), he has already agreed to look at the front light and flat spot.

 

[Pond]

@All, assuming that my Z3 will be on axel stands for at least 12 months (I have been told that i am not alowed to rush it !!!!) while I fit the rebody kit, what precautions do I need to take to preserve the mechanics etc? For example the hood will be down all this time, can I just leave it down with a towel in it or should I remove it? Is there anything I can do to stop the brake disks from rusting? What else do I need to consider?

When you say hood...do you mean roof, or bonnet?
I am presuming your car will be under cover, ie in a garage? If roof, I would remove it as it will get in the way when you put the rear kit on and you could end up not being able to move it after without major headaches! The weather trims and foam strips will be knackered, probably, so a good time to sort those aswell. Mine is in my daughter's study! I need to address some issues with it (much) later.

You said you were going to fit new disks and pads. TBH I would wait until everything else is done then you don't need to worry about any corrosion. Although in a fairly dry garage you shouldn't have a problem. Just spin the wheels occasionally to stop them binding.

If on axle stands for a long period, I would put something under each wheel to support the suspension a bit. Also check around each jacking point thoroughly as the Z3 has a habit of corroding around there. You don't want one failing!

My car has been sat still in my garage for 7 months now. It is sitting on it's wheels so I can move it backward and forward in the garage when needed (often). No ill effects so far.
If you are not changing the interior, I would cover everything you can just to keep dust to a minimum. I have put a big towel over the engine bay to keep dust and crap out. Too many nooks and crannies for bits to get into which would be difficult to deep clean later. There's enough to do without that!

 

[Dxbolton]

@All, assuming that my Z3 will be on axel stands for at least 12 months (I have been told that i am not alowed to rush it !!!!) while I fit the rebody kit, what precautions do I need to take to preserve the mechanics etc? For example the hood will be down all this time, can I just leave it down with a towel in it or should I remove it? Is there anything I can do to stop the brake disks from rusting? What else do I need to consider?

Mine was built on its wheels. I could start and drive car in and out of garage to sweep up the floor on occasion.
likewise the hood was up most of the time to keep dust / dirt out but down when I wanted headroom or better light inside the car on occasion
No issue with starting even after a few months of standing and discs don’t go rusty. You’ll be fine

 

[Dxbolton]

@All, assuming that my Z3 will be on axel stands for at least 12 months (I have been told that i am not alowed to rush it !!!!)

mine took 8 months as there wasn’t anything to compare it with although parts of Kobra builds were helpful to look at. Another one would be far quicker.
however it will get stripped down over winter to be painted so that’s a bit more time

 

[Jezza]

@All, assuming that my Z3 will be on axel stands for at least 12 months (I have been told that i am not alowed to rush it !!!!) while I fit the rebody kit, what precautions do I need to take to preserve the mechanics etc? For example the hood will be down all this time, can I just leave it down with a towel in it or should I remove it? Is there anything I can do to stop the brake disks from rusting? What else do I need to consider?

Why should it be on axle stands? My Z3 remains mobile throughout the entire build except for a couple of weeks when the entire dashboard is s removed so I can't start it or steer it.