Lucky it's not a Jaguar replica...As for the Prancing Horse people, they can only get legal with a manufacturer (one of the big reasons Nubodi stopped I think), but a consumer/joe public can do whatever they like to their car and all Fezza can do is ask them to take them off. Not sure I would want to test the theory with a road trip to Maranello and Modena though. Nuts to think they feel threatened by a Plastic Replica when everybody can tell the difference.
Having said that we could both get away with it as we can just point out they never made the car we have built. As I say "the best convertible Ferrari never made!"
They are a laugh, you can also get a Prancing Moose for your Saab or Volvo!!!One of the guy's in a local car club has this on the front of his 1990's Suzuki car. It was found on E-Bay.
Maybe its one way to have an authentic looking replica and a bit of fun with the Fezza people.
I did think about designing a whole set of badges/branding of my own based around a Highland Stag or some sort of sword from Lord of The Rings and use the letter opener size as the Grille Badge or the Stag Head, what do you recon?:
I read all of this link earlier. Either:Lucky it's not a Jaguar replica...
Hmmm..... not great on the deadlocks, I wonder if I can kill the mechanical deadlock action in the door lock/actuator itself?Yes and no!
I ran an emergency release cable from the front of the bonnet to the door lock. This seemed to work well every time I tried it. However, for no reason the doors deadlocked and when this happened there was no way in except for removing the rear window.
The problem is the deadlocking if the replacement door handle puts any pressure at all on the original door opener. it will deadlock. The only way to open the doors when this happens is by using the door lock. If anyone is building one of these or a DNA 250, I would suggest a hole in the doorskin so that a modified long key could be inserted to open the door. You could use a rubber grommet with a fake keyhole to disguise it.
I will have to get my thinking cap on!The original Z3 rear windows had zips, however, my roof is now new with a narrower and wider rear window sewn in so I won't be able to get in this way again.
In another build, the doors deadlocked fortunately when the roof was down but even with the key in the ignition the doors wouldn't open so a secondary window switch won't really help. I was lucky that I didn't have the door panels on and I had cut off the plate which is supposed to protect the door lock from thieves.
I did look at replacing the actuator with a simple solenoid system but it is the door lock assembly that locks the door which is the problem, not the door handle assembly.
Day of the J-Pipe yesterday.Tomorrow is the long-awaited "Day of the J-Pipe".
The story so far:
Custom SS twin-pipe exhaust with quad tips and no rear boxes so quite loud. The original cat and resonator are still there. The noise is spectacular but it has an annoying drone at (you guessed it, right in the torque band) 2250-2700 RPM.
Going to Redhill Classics to have a Helmholtz Resonator (J-Pipe) fitted tomorrow, I hope I have measured the drone and made my calculations correctly? EEEK!
The drone is 105hz, exhaust tailpipe exit temp when hot 275.9deg C, gives a pipe of 1160mm. hope I'm right. £90 and 50 minutes each way wasted if I'm not.
Pics and results tomorrow.