Wheel Wobble issues

Just read your first post where you said it was an intermittent wobble,sounds like the calliper was gradually getting worse during you upgrades the calliper loosened,now it's back to its old self and sticking again .thats my diagnosis and I'm sticking to it lol. Just call me doctor Miller
 
Well it will be easy to diagnose go for a longish run with little braking, when you finally stop touch the wheels one will be ok to touch the other will too hot if it is the caliper.
 
OK so I think I have solved part of the problem. I borrowed a pair of my neighbours wheels off his 3 series. There was only 1 pair available and they were 19" but I replaced them with my rears. Gave they car a blast on the dual carriageway and the shake was no more. Still have big bearing to the left on braking so I am certain that is a caliper issue as when I got back the nearside back wheel was roasting and the offisde rear wasn't.
So while putting my wheels back on I noticed the marking on the tyres saying 'rotation' I guess you can see where this is going... The tread on the back tyres was the wrong way round. So I put them on the correct way and the shake has gone.. So I've wasted near on £300 on tyres but the problem is gone... for the moment. Car is booked in on Monday to hopefully sort the calipers as I clearly b******* them up when changing pads and discs but I can see the light at the end of the tunnel...
 
Hope this has sorted your wobble.

Regards caliper sticking it isn't that you have b****ed them just that the piston in the caliper is now in a part of the cylinder that hasn't been used for a long time as you pushed this piston back to fit the thicker pads and discs. This bit of the cylinder may have a small amount of corrosion from any water trapped in the brake fluid. brake fluid absorbs water over time.

If you feel handy you can try working the pistons in and out by pushing them all the way back and pressing the brake pedal to push them out a few times and this might free them off. The calipers can be rebuilt with new seals and dust covers. It is usually the front caliper that sticks but guess you have found your cause.
 
hmm didnt think of that. mechanic where i've booked it in said i've probably b******* the seals on the pistons.

will take a look tomorrow and give your advice a go

Many thanks
 
Brian4 said:
Hope this has sorted your wobble.

Regards caliper sticking it isn't that you have b****ed them just that the piston in the caliper is now in a part of the cylinder that hasn't been used for a long time as you pushed this piston back to fit the thicker pads and discs. This bit of the cylinder may have a small amount of corrosion from any water trapped in the brake fluid. brake fluid absorbs water over time.

If you feel handy you can try working the pistons in and out by pushing them all the way back and pressing the brake pedal to push them out a few times and this might free them off. The calipers can be rebuilt with new seals and dust covers. It is usually the front caliper that sticks but guess you have found your cause.
Click to expand...
Well said but only to add don't beat yourself up about it as it's impossible to know the condition behind an extended piston when you go to push it back in. Its only in the use of it that you find out it had become defective. No one is going to pop the pistons out every time the pads are replaced to examine the brake cylinder bore because its actually rather rare that there is trouble. Frankie
 
waynerp said:
probably b*****ed the seals
Click to expand...
You've only done that if they leak to be honest. If you pump them out then lift the dust seal at the piston end and spray some freeing oil under the rubber and push them back and repeat a few times you may get them working ok. Also the rubber sleeves where the locating pins push through, have you removed these and cleaned out the corrosion and refitted the rubber sleeves, and clean the slider pins which fit through these rubbers too.

Tony.
 
So i had a go at trying to free up the offisde rear caliper /piston.
Took the pads off, and pumped on the brake pedal a few times to let the piston come out maybe a couple of inches. I'm no expert but i think i might have let the piston out to far, as there was fluid coming out of the seal!
Hastily put it back together and will now take it directly to the mechanic tomorrow morning who is fortunately a couple of hundred yards up the road
 
Sounds like you went only a little too far Wayne, that's where you need an assistant to pump the pedal while you watch the piston. But you're doing exactly the right thing mate.

Tony.
 
So is it ok to pump the piston head out say an inch and spray WD40 around the piston, to help free it up or is that a no no?
 
You'll probably find there is a "ring" of corrosion around the piston. Get some fine abrasive paper and remove it, but only use light pressure. A bit of WD40 wont hurt after you've done this, but don't over do it.
 
waynerp said:
So is it ok to pump the piston head out say an inch and spray WD40 around the piston, to help free it up or is that a no no?
Click to expand...
Yes that would be ok Wayne.

Tony.
 
ok had the car in at 'kwik fit' today as its local, and im stretched for time.
they told me its the offside front that has seized. they told me they could get a replacement and get it sorted today for £170. so i said yes go ahead. they then said they cant do a partial replacement so they would need to replace pads and discs, and the total would be £470!! i said p*SS off.

so ive just tried to free up the cylinder and it has totally seized to such extent that i cant get the pads back on.
So the only and probably sensible option is to get a new caliper. so my next question is, if by chance i can get a caliper tomorrow can i replace it without having to bleed the brake fluid. i am not keen on messing about with bleeding the brakes so is there an option to do this without bleeding?? was hoping to take the old boy to dorset on wednesday not looking good!
 
Changing a caliper means you have to bleed your brakes.
 
waynerp said:
ok had the car in at 'kwik fit' today as its local, and im stretched for time.
they told me its the offside front that has seized. they told me they could get a replacement and get it sorted today for £170. so i said yes go ahead. they then said they cant do a partial replacement so they would need to replace pads and discs, and the total would be £470!! i said p*SS off.

so ive just tried to free up the cylinder and it has totally seized to such extent that i cant get the pads back on.
So the only and probably sensible option is to get a new caliper. so my next question is, if by chance i can get a caliper tomorrow can i replace it without having to bleed the brake fluid. i am not keen on messing about with bleeding the brakes so is there an option to do this without bleeding?? was hoping to take the old boy to dorset on wednesday not looking good!
Click to expand...
Have you ever bled your brakes before? Frankie
 
Bleeding brakes is simple. I can talk you through it Wayne. Have a look on youtube for a video on "bleeding brakes". I'll check back later.

Tony.
 
t-tony said:
Bleeding brakes is simple. I can talk you through it Wayne. Have a look on youtube for a video on "bleeding brakes". I'll check back later.

Tony.
Click to expand...
Be careful as some videos instruct you to bleed the break that is farthest from the master cylinder first. This is good advice if you have to bleed all 4 breaks. However, if only one has been removed, it is the only one that has to be bled. Make sure you don't allow the break fluid to gravity feed out of the line and the master cylinder. After you have removed the break line from the wheel, make sure it doesn't leak fluid as air will replace that fluid. If it drains the master cylinder, you'll have to bleed all 4 breaks starting from the one farthest from the master cylinder as stated above. Frankie
 
I have always just used a easy bleed tube and a jar to catch it and touch wood never had a problem :) just makes it simpler also a special ring spanner with a cut out for the tube is invaluable in un doing the bleed nipple :)
 
Jack Ratt said:
You'll probably find there is a "ring" of corrosion around the piston. Get some fine abrasive paper and remove it, but only use light pressure. A bit of WD40 wont hurt after you've done this, but don't over do it.
Click to expand...
Thats true - but cleaning the piston with emery paper and repolishing it up will only be a temporary repair.The pistons are usually chrome plated and you will find that the corrosion has come through the chrome and they will soon start to corrode and stick again. Best policy is to replace the calipers or have them reconditioned with new seals and pistons.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top