What's a key transponder ?

demig

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Yes from the dealer and they don't need the car, the key needed to be programmed to the car to open the doors and turn off the alarm but that is the easy bit! I had to show id and my V5 and it came cut and with the transponder to enable the car to start. To code to the car you just turn to key position 2, turn off and remove key, press lock button and press unlock 3 times if memory serves me correctly!

The whole experience has inspired me to research how to make some more keys and it turns out it is relatively easy but needs the EWS removing to read the data. I shall be doing so as I don't like just having one key.
 

mrscalex

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Well the EWS removal is why I asked if the dealer wanted the car. I wouldn’t expect them to have to remove the EWS like the rest of us. But the EWS still needs updating. I thought you were going to say they plugged the diagnostics cable in to do it.
 

demig

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No just did it from the VIN I presume the EWS does not need updating if it's a key in a free slot in the EWS as I presumably they know the first code? They did tell me it was key 5. I've ordered the necessary to wipe out the old keys and create a second myself. I assume you've used the AK90, how easy was it to do?
 

mrscalex

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Still don’t get it. The free slots should be switched off in the EWS by default.

The AK90 is an effective cheap tool. But you do need to be happy to scrape off the conformal coating (lacquer) from the main chip puns. And be patient with the chip piggy back collector.
 

demig

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Hmmm that's a little strange then as it works perfectly. Couldn't take the car down there if I wanted to as it was immobilized outside :) They were rather clueless in the dealer so I did wonder if it would work but it has. Not too worried about scraping off the lacquer, more concerned about running the software on a modern laptop as have had issues with INPA in the past.
 

Artyjay

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We're back to square one - took it out for a bit of fresh air today and all's well. Then I put it back in the garage and without thinking pressed
the lock on the fob and it locked. I'd forgotten something on the passenger seat so pressed the Unlock and nothing happened.
Opened with the key and the alarm went off again and it wouldn't start.
Can a key be resync'd more than once and if so, why doesn't the lock/unlock work ? Is this something to do with the key or with the central
locking.
At this rate I'll be needing another new key because the buttons are worn.
 

mrscalex

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Can you summarise what keys you have and where they came from, ie independent locksmith, key repairer or BMW?

If you only have the one it's going to be a bit more difficult to track down.

OEM keys are made by Silica and last time I was checking a few months ago there was a national shortage to independents.

The Chinese keys from ebay look great but they have some issues. The buttons aren't designed quite right and it's not impossible your unlock button is malfunctioning if it's one of these. And for info the blades can be made from very hard metal that breaks the locksmiths tools and makes you unpopular if you have supplied it. Hence why many won't cut customer supplied keys.
 

Artyjay

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When I bought the car, it came with two original keys, both with worn buttons and one without its transponder, so effectively
I only had one working key. Because the buttons were not working on the functioning ( ignition) key I decided to get a new
one made. This came in the same shape, with three buttons and a blade. Last week, when the key was resync'd it started
the car but evidently there is a problem with the buttons.
 

mrscalex

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When I bought the car, it came with two original keys, both with worn buttons and one without its transponder, so effectively
I only had one working key. Because the buttons were not working on the functioning ( ignition) key I decided to get a new
one made. This came in the same shape, with three buttons and a blade. Last week, when the key was resync'd it started
the car but evidently there is a problem with the buttons.
Who made the new key?

And for the existing keys.

Have you tried putting the transponder from the key with worn buttons into the key with good buttons? To make one good one?
 

Artyjay

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The new key was made by a guy on eBay (mrsporty) who had a feedback of over 14k - all seemed well.
The existing, knackered keys, I would guess, came with the car from new.
The contents of one of the existing keys i.e. the printed board and the transponder were transferred
to the new key case (and blade) and after the resync last week, got me moving. The other knackered
key case contains another printed board but no transponder (which I presume was lost sometime before
my purchase, probably when changing a battery)
Is a transponder sync'd to the car or the key - would the transponder work with the printed board from the
'other' key (the one that was missing a transponder) ?
 

mrscalex

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The PCB is uncoded. The transponder is coded to the car (EWS).

You can move the transponder to another PCB no problem.
 

Artyjay

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Update - tried to resync the key again on Wednesday without much success and gave up
after an hour ( got fed up with the alarm !). Tried again today and to my surprise, opened
the door, no alarm, turned the key in the ignition and it started Wayhay !
I haven't locked with the remote this time.

Thanks to all for the advice and info.
 

Kiwipom

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Going back to an earlier question regarding Bmw needing the car to set up a new key they supply, in my experience they (or you) only need to set up the keyless entry side for a new key, the EWS/transponder (immobiliser) side works with the new key/transponder without any set up. I know this as I programmed new transponders for key slots 9 and 10 on my car using an AK90 device. The new keys/transponders worked fine, though you may need to wait a couple of secs for the EWS to recognise the new transponders when first used.

I set up keys 9 and 10 in case a future owner orders a key, as they will get key 5 from Bmw (the first 4 key slots were showing as in use in the EWS) so I left slot 5 free in the EWS.....but if anyone in the future ordered key 9 or 10 from Bmw I’m pretty sure the EWS won’t like it.....the key and car remain synced to each other after the first use, and if you attempt to use a new key in a slot already showing as in use, I’m pretty sure it will fail the synch “test” by the EWS.
 

DrWong

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My alarm fob stopped working a few months ago so I just unlock with the key for now. After you set the alarm off, inserting and turning the key in the ignition disarms it and the car then functions as normal. The alarm will only re-arm if the fob is pressed again. This is my experience anyway.
I managed to sort my alarm, remote locking and central locking today. Hadn't worked for a year. I'd connected INPA last week to reset the service indicator and noticed a code for the central locking module fuse. Looked in the fuse box and sure enough one had gone (there are three related to the central locking). Replaced the duff fuse today and central locking instantly came back, including the boot, but remote fob and alarm still not working. A quick re-sync using the hold unlock / press lock three times method - with both keys - sorted that. Everything working as it should now:)

I'd checked the fuses when the locks first stopped working but apparently not closely enough. I'm sooooo glad INPA flagged it again as I was very close to stripping the boot loom and had even asked about the replacement boot loom price from my local BMW dealer:bag:
 

demig

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Hmmm that's a little strange then as it works perfectly. Couldn't take the car down there if I wanted to as it was immobilized outside :) They were rather clueless in the dealer so I did wonder if it would work but it has. Not too worried about scraping off the lacquer, more concerned about running the software on a modern laptop as have had issues with INPA in the past.
Resurrecting an older thread as I finally got around to doing this. Was really impressed with how easy the AK90 is to use, I now have 2 keys which makes me a little more comfortable! Hardest part of the job was scratching the coating of the chip pins and that was pretty easy if a little nerve wracking.
 

demig

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Indeed. Best done with a fine emery board like the girlies use on their nails.
Never thought of that, I used a small screwdriver for tightening glasses, worked a treat.

Lots of the white dust under the dash, think the light switch will be the next job!
 
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