Trunk Lid Wiring Problem

topcat59

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thanks! will check that this weekend - if that is the case - i have a used actuator motor and trunk latch available :)
 

oldcarman

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Brian,

quick question - thanks for the wiring sheet.

my central locks were not working - the 25A fuse was blown. Replaced the fuse, put the key in and turned the lock - fuse blown.

given things i read on this site - i suspected an issue in the boot, so i checked the wiring , after that i tried to eliminate components -

so i checked the actual latch - it has a plug in it with a blue/ grey and a white - when i disconnect and replace the fuse, leaving that unpliged all works -

this car has had some rear damage repaired by a previous owner and i am thinking somehow this plug goes to the actuator and not the latch itself - could that be the issue?

thanks!
Tom
This is actually for @ Geoff Crispin!! Have a look at the wiring as written by Brian and get out your digital tester! Then test each wire and series to make sure everything from the FOB is working correctly when you press the buttons individually. Check that there isn't an abnormal draw anywhere which could lead you to your problem! Sorry for the intrusion gents!! JIM
 

topcat59

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Jun 25, 2017
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OK- so the previous owner who fixed the wire harness did indeed reverse the wiring - plug on the actuator was actually on the latch - so when a signal was sent - direct ground, fuse blown.. 10 minute fix and all is good!

thanks everyone for the input.

now on to that mysterious squeak/rattle in the right rear!

Regards
Tom
 

andyglym

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OK- so the previous owner who fixed the wire harness did indeed reverse the wiring - plug on the actuator was actually on the latch - so when a signal was sent - direct ground, fuse blown.. 10 minute fix and all is good!

thanks everyone for the input.

now on to that mysterious squeak/rattle in the right rear!

Regards
Tom
Had an annoying squeak in the rear right of my Z3, just over my right shoulder (Drivers side right hand drive). Turned out to be a worn top mount when they were changed.
 

topcat59

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thanks, from the underside it looks like the suspension is original, so with 85K on it, maybe time to invest in some struts/shocks...

another winter project (glad i put heat in the garage!)
 

Geoff Crispin

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This is actually for @ Geoff Crispin!! Have a look at the wiring as written by Brian and get out your digital tester! Then test each wire and series to make sure everything from the FOB is working correctly when you press the buttons individually. Check that there isn't an abnormal draw anywhere which could lead you to your problem! Sorry for the intrusion gents!! JIM
Jim Mine is still not sorted, with key sometimes all locks work but mostly just a door and boot. With fob only boot locks and doors try to (you can see the push button move a bit). All boot wires seem ok after repairing two so my problem I think is in a door or doors.
This locking problem seems to be quiet common I think. Geoff
 

oldcarman

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I think before you tackle the fob problem get into the operation with the key and get that sorted! You may just find some problems which once corrected may allow the fob to work properly. As @ Southernboy says "slowly slowly catches the monkey" so take your time and make sure all connections are properly grounded and all connections are tight!! HTH. JIM
 
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