Time for an overhaul of my 1.9 '98 BMW Z3 Individual

Thank goodness for that. Bet you are one of the most knowledgeable on here now from hard won experience and not a little perseverance.
Very well done!
 
That’s great that it’s going now… and that’s all that matters 😂😂😂
agreed mate..... @Duncodin did warn me to check the fuel rail pressure but as it fired when I disconnected the ICV and TPS I just thought, well there must be fuel rail pressure for it to fire ! but it got me thinking and took me back to the fuel rail diagrams and that's when I saw the supply was on the other pipe.. again I believed the internet in that "being a rail it doesn't matter which side you connect"..... oh yes it bloody does !! anyway lesson learnt albeit at a cost of weeks and cash...

so now I need to put the interior back together, fit new rear shocks and get a new alternator and I think we're there.....
 
Sounds like you have most of the kit to open the Portchester sub-branch of the Zedshed
if anyone wants to borrow any of my diagnostic tools you're more than welcome..... I sort of know the basics of INPA now... EDIABAS is all in German so is less helpful in terms of drilling down into problems....
 
Thank goodness for that. Bet you are one of the most knowledgeable on here now from hard won experience and not a little perseverance.
Very well done!
thank you @Ianmc it just made no sense that as I never touched the engine during the restoration, for it simply not to start baffled me. Then I started believing the Internet, and it turned out one simple error on my part lead to all this .....but yes if nothing else I gained a huge amount of experience from it...
 
🤣At least you got there in the end, appreciate the frustrations, I’m sure a lot of us can hold our hand up to the occasion guff or chasing of a red herring.
 
Well done Matt, you certainly deserve a medal for all your hard work and perseverance :thumbsup:. You are now an expert with scanners, INPA, etc. We all know who to come to for help now;)
 
Well done Matt, you certainly deserve a medal for all your hard work and perseverance :thumbsup:. You are now an expert with scanners, INPA, etc. We all know who to come to for help now;)
thank you @Mint ! appreciate that..... I've spend more on this (both financially and emotionally) than is remotely healthy! but as I keep telling myself I've learnt a ton in the process... ironically when I finished fitting the last body panel I said to myself "well at least I don't need to touch the engine" :eek::whistle:=))
 
THE FIJI FLIER HAS LANDED !!!

1789822074910.webp


First time on her own four wheels for over 3 years !...

running a bit rough at the moment plus as I have the alternator disconnected it's running just on the battery, so only have it running for a few minutes at a time.

1789822252784.webp

1789822291308.webp

1789822351896.webp

Yes, the bonnet is on the catch.... :D

I had a little delay in proceedings last week, as the Peugeot decided to lose the brake pedal. I could brake but then my foot would carry on. Checked every wheel arch and all was dry, so thought it was the master cylinder so replaced it.... and no.. it wasn't that...crawled under the car and up behind the spare wheel was this.....

1789822555740.webp


and had sprayed fluid all over the spare wheel..... as luck would have it, I've just restored a car that required me to replace all the brake lines.... The brake unions were completely rusted in, so cut a length out got out my handy hand held brake flaring tool, made up a new line and we were back on the road

1789822679900.webp

1789822703526.webp


now back to the Z3 !!

got it onto level ground and topped off the Diff oil and torqued it up so that's all good. When running i did hear a squeaking noise and it was the exhaust rubbing on the subframe mount. Think that as the rear shocks have collapsed it's sitting a little lower than it should, but I have new rear shocks anyway to go on.

All the trim is now back in after my foolhardy journey with the immobiliser

1789823035614.webp

I actually used 3M Tyre Restorer spray on the trims and it brought it up very nicely

1789823108710.webp


So what's next !!?

well...

  • replace the shock absorbers
  • refit the kick boards and new chrome strips
  • Get the wheels refubished
  • Get a new alternator (the current one draws 3A with the engine off so must be shorted.
  • Repair the Driver's seat ( I have some leather glue so might that a go)
  • Refit the undertrays
  • Replace the weathered badges and gear knob
 

Attachments

  • 1789822228888.webp
    1789822228888.webp
    22 KB · Views: 15
Last edited:
Style 18s seem to be the most popular on Fuji’s ..set for sale here in Ringwood 😉
 
Afternoon !!... apologies for the lack of an update !...... Niece's wedding weekend beginning of October, then spent the past two weekends in Cornwall on holiday....based ourselves in Perranporth and loved it....

right.... where were we.....

firstly, battery was dead, not surprising as I'd done all the previous cranks and starts on battery alone, as the alternator was pulling 3A parasitic draw, so disconnected it, and it's now making a whirring noise. Replacement coming courtesy of Ebay.

so.. it seems I've developed a leak....well... two actually !........

Leak No1

You can't really see but I have water in my offside rear cluster, up to the level of the bulb apertures.

1792237163044.webp


I checked the rubber boot seal and all good.... dry around where the looms enter the boot

1792237217651.webp

1792237307318.webp

1792237246231.webp


but have water collecting near the front bulkhead and the battery tray. I tried removing the cluster light, undid the nuts and what I thought made it free.... but no.. it won't budge....gave it a gentle tap with a rubber mallet on the studs but no... won't budge at all

I've seen videos of people removing the cluster complete with the black shroud, but that can't be right ?

1792237890307.webp


I'm just hoping someone before me hasn't bonded it in...... anyway

Leak No. 2

This one I'm confident it's the O Ring at the bottom of the filler on the radiator as the drips are coming from above the bottom hose

1792238036392.webp


So I guess the question is, can this be removed with the radiator in place or do I need to remove the radiator to get it out?

Sideline job, I accessed the top of the rear struts and was relieved to see no corrosion at all, so swapping those struts out for new ones should be an easy job.... there I've cursed it now !

1792238685853.webp


So when that's all done... what's left to do ?

  • Fit replacement alternator
  • Fit undertrays
  • Fit kick plates
  • Book MoT !!

............................................ UPDATE..................................


I think I've found one of my issues...... look at the rear quarter in relation to the rear cluster =))

I fitted the quarter OVER the light... that might explain why it was stuck !!

1792241748868.webp


loosen the two 8mms on the rear quarter, tapped the studs and out she came.... what an idiot

1792241772026.webp

1792241803070.webp


Think someone has been here before though... black overspray?

1792241965463.webp



There...much better.... and yes the same on the nearside as well

1792243038197.webp

1792243062603.webp
 
Last edited:
Hi Matt,,

You may get the filler bottle on the side of the rad off in the car, but it a pig to get the unit back in even when you take the rad out.

When I did it , I couldn't get it to seal and ended up getting a new rad.( I think the plastic has distorted over time. )

But have a go …….and just in case of problems …….I do have a spare rad that came off my donor car.
 
Hi Matt,,

You may get the filler bottle on the side of the rad off in the car, but it a pig to get the unit back in even when you take the rad out.

When I did it , I couldn't get it to seal and ended up getting a new rad.( I think the plastic has distorted over time. )

But have a go …….and just in case of problems …….I do have a spare rad that came off my donor car.
Thanks Malc.... I've seen videos before of someone trying to replace the bottle and had the same problem. I'll jack it up to check if it is the O ring of the bottle is split..... cheers as always mate....
 
I used to check brake lights were working by putting a toolbox on the brake pedal, and checking the rear...... so much easier just filming it and pumping the pedal !.... crocs are essential for this !!

1792321799279.webp


as for the radiator water bottle... found the YouTube video from momentofZed... where he tried to replace the bottle...with difficulty ...and with the radiator out of the car !
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Fb1GrLZn0E


He ended up using silicon grease liberally ... and using long G clamps to pull it into place..... seems an almighty faff ..

1792321993540.webp
 
Back
Top