Time for an overhaul of my 1.9 '98 BMW Z3 Individual

Found this Matt … any use ??
I don’t understand any of it !!!


To sync the EWS (Electronic Immobilizer System) with the DME (Digital Motor Electronics) on a BMW Z3, you must use a BMW-specific diagnostic tool like INPA, ISTA, or BMW Scanner 1.4 to perform an EWS-DME alignment. This process relearns the rolling security codes that frequently fall out of sync after a dead battery or jump-start, resolving a "crank-no-start" condition. [1, 2, 3, 4]

⚠️ Critical Pre-Requisites
    • Battery Voltage: Connect a battery charger to ensure your voltage remains strictly above 12.5V to 14V during the entire process. If voltage drops, the synchronization will fail and could corrupt the modules. [1, 2, 3]
    • Connection Port: For early Z3 models (pre-2001), you must use the round 20-pin diagnostic connector under the hood using a 20-pin to OBD2 adapter. The standard OBD2 port under the dash on these older models will not communicate with the EWS module. [1, 2]



Method 1: Syncing via INPA (Most Common)
If you are using the standard factory dealer software INPA, follow these sequential steps:
    • Connect your K+DCAN cable to the car's 20-pin round port (under the hood) and plug it into your laptop.
    • Turn the ignition key to Position 2 (ON), but do not start the engine. Open INPA.
    • Select your chassis (F3 for E36 / Z3).
    • Select Engine and choose your specific engine/DME variant (e.g., MS41 for 1.9L/2.8L single-VANOS, MS42 for 2.0L/2.5L/2.8L dual-VANOS, or MS43 for 3.0L).
    • Press F5 (Activations / Ansteuerung).
    • Press F6 (EWS Alignment / EWS-Abgleich).
    • Press F2 (Reset / Startwert zurücksetzen) to clear the older rolling code mismatch.
    • Turn the ignition key completely OFF for exactly 25 seconds to allow the DME to save the new alignment.
    • Turn the key and start the vehicle. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6]



Method 2: Syncing via ISTA/D (Rheingold)
If you are using BMW's modern workshop application ISTA/D:
    • Connect the cable, turn the ignition to Position 2, and perform a complete vehicle identification scan.
    • Navigate to the top tabs and click Vehicle Management -> Service Functions.
    • From the left menu column, select 01 Drive -> Engine Electronics (DME) -> Adjustment functions.
    • Select DME - EWS Alignment and click Display to run the automated test plan.
    • Follow the on-screen prompts which will instruct you to clear the values, switch the ignition off for a specific countdown, and switch it back on. [1, 2, 3]



What to do if you are swapping a Used DME
If you are replacing a failed engine computer with a used donor unit from another car, a simple diagnostic sync will not work right away. The EWS module and the DME must share an identical security string called an ISN (Individual Serial Number). [1, 2]
    • For EWS2 (Z3 models made before 09/1998): You can bypass this restriction using INPA. Read the 3 or 4-digit ISN string directly out of the donor DME, switch over to the INPA EWS module coding menu, select F1 (Write ISN), and type that code into your factory EWS module. [1, 2]
    • For EWS3D (Z3 models made after 09/1998): The ISN cannot be easily rewritten via software diagnostics. You will either need an electronic chip programmer (like an AK90+ or XProg) to read and modify the physical EEPROM dumps, pay an auto-locksmith to chip-tune an "EWS Delete" into the DME firmware, or install a physically matching set containing a donor DME, EWS unit, and transponder key chip together. [1, 2, 3, 4]
 
I was just wondering if this window ...

Screenshot 2026-08-29 at 14.36.55.webp


... is asking you to key in the value in a specific format. So either as two 16 bit hex values in which case you'd key in 0000-0F5D Or whether it's asking for a single 16bit value from 0000 to 0FFF in which case you'd key in 0F5D

But that post by @Mazza looks more promising. Method 1 using INPA looks like telling it to sync itself rather than keying in the values manually.
 
I was just wondering if this window ...

View attachment 369214

... is asking you to key in the value in a specific format. So either as two 16 bit hex values in which case you'd key in 0000-0F5D Or whether it's asking for a single 16bit value from 0000 to 0FFF in which case you'd key in 0F5D

But that post by @Mazza looks more promising. Method 1 using INPA looks like telling it to sync itself rather than keying in the values manually.
thanks mate.... trouble is (or bad luck for me) on INPA there's no sync or alignment option for an E36 M44 with an EWS3D.. only way is through EDIABAS... which I might try if the rain stops !
 
So these steps posted by Mazza don't exist in your INPA?

Method 1: Syncing via INPA (Most Common)
If you are using the standard factory dealer software INPA, follow these sequential steps:


    • Connect your K+DCAN cable to the car's 20-pin round port (under the hood) and plug it into your laptop.
    • Turn the ignition key to Position 2 (ON), but do not start the engine. Open INPA.
    • Select your chassis (F3 for E36 / Z3).
    • Select Engine and choose your specific engine/DME variant (e.g., MS41 for 1.9L/2.8L single-VANOS, MS42 for 2.0L/2.5L/2.8L dual-VANOS, or MS43 for 3.0L).
    • Press F5 (Activations / Ansteuerung).
    • Press F6 (EWS Alignment / EWS-Abgleich).
    • Press F2 (Reset / Startwert zurücksetzen) to clear the older rolling code mismatch.
    • Turn the ignition key completely OFF for exactly 25 seconds to allow the DME to save the new alignment.
    • Turn the key and start the vehicle
 
So these steps posted by Mazza don't exist in your INPA?

Method 1: Syncing via INPA (Most Common)
If you are using the standard factory dealer software INPA, follow these sequential steps:


    • Connect your K+DCAN cable to the car's 20-pin round port (under the hood) and plug it into your laptop.
    • Turn the ignition key to Position 2 (ON), but do not start the engine. Open INPA.
    • Select your chassis (F3 for E36 / Z3).
    • Select Engine and choose your specific engine/DME variant (e.g., MS41 for 1.9L/2.8L single-VANOS, MS42 for 2.0L/2.5L/2.8L dual-VANOS, or MS43 for 3.0L).
    • Press F5 (Activations / Ansteuerung).
    • Press F6 (EWS Alignment / EWS-Abgleich).
    • Press F2 (Reset / Startwert zurücksetzen) to clear the older rolling code mismatch.
    • Turn the ignition key completely OFF for exactly 25 seconds to allow the DME to save the new alignment.
    • Turn the key and start the vehicle
evidently not for an M44 E36 with EWS 3D immobiliser... there are no alignment options, seems to stop at an M43..... it's reading all the modules correctly and allows me to clear codes but there's nothing about alignment..... guess I'm learning a lot about diagnostic software today !
 
After reading yet more stuff, it seems there are two codes. The ISN is the fixed code between the DME and the EWS, which for me is f5d in both the DME and EWS. EWS3D also has a rolling code that has got out of sync. Lucky old me having an M44 engine with a Motronics 5.2 DME and an EWS3D combination, INPA doesn't have the .prg file to sync those. Evidently someone has produced an M44 file somewhere. The alternative is to find a BMW specialised and send both off to get resynced
 
This is who I used - it was 50 quid quite a few years ago now.


Alternatively:
 

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This is who I used - it was 50 quid quite a few years ago now.


Alternatively:
thank you mate...I think this is what I'm going to have to do now, as I've pretty much exhausted my options. I'll drop them an email stating my setup and take it from there..cheers !
 
always great having a catchup with @Mazza and he's now seen the infamous no start issue in the flesh ! =))

So I drilled a little further into Tools32 and found something called "wechselcode_sync_dme"... it had the words "sync" and DME and that was good enough for me.... so ran the script..... and got an error..... but I think I might be closer than I was a couple of hours previous

1788084689813.webp
 
so.... the battle goes on........ I've now gone through EDIABAS, INPA and all my scanners and apparently there's nothing wrong with any of the components or sensors..... there is but one clue.........on crank, the Idle Control Valve is forced wide open and apparently that's because the DME (ECU) is gasping for air. This is suggesting there's a massive air leak somewhere. I've checked all the top hoses and can't find anything. The only option is to remove the intake manifold without breaking it, given that some lovely person before me glue the manifold down with either gasket sealer or mastic. I'm guessing they didn't have the metal gaskets to hand so just glued it.....
 
ICV’s open fully on start up and then gradually close.

Give up and either replace the ECU kit or have yours doctored.
but INPA, EDIABAS and scanners say there's nothing wrong with the ECU or EWS and it's mechanical failure...well.... air loss...... and I'm at a loss ! =))
 
Is it cranking? Have you got a spark? Any fuel on the plugs?
I get everything apart from start.... good spark, good cranking and the engine runs fine for about 4 seconds when I disconnect the ICV and TPS as apparently this invokes a pre programmed mode and ignores the sensors. I get no codes. the DME and EWS both show the same static code "f5d" and the key is at "Released" state meaning the EWS recognises the key. Crank Position Sensor reports 240 rpm while cranking. The only two things I haven't tested are the Cam Position sensor (again no codes) and the PCV
 
ok.... I decided to go back to basics and pull myself out of the rabbit hole..... checked all the diagrams... looked at the fuel rail and..... hang on !

This is saying the supply is the RIGHT hand pipe and not the left !!

1788601112525.webp



1788601147236.webp


Quickly went out and double checked mine, and I have the supply (filter line) on the LEFT hand pipe !

1788601040371.webp


Have I been that stupid all along ?? can't do anything today as we're out for the day......... but tomorrow it is !
 
Way way back in this thread I said that i once had a fuel pressure problem that allowed the rail to be pressurized enough to start and run for 3-4 seconds but the pressure dropped off quickly and killed the engine. Pump just wasnt feeding enough fuel once engine started.

You said you were going to test the fuel rail pressure during and after starting.

Did you?
 
Way way back in this thread I said that i once had a fuel pressure problem that allowed the rail to be pressurized enough to start and run for 3-4 seconds but the pressure dropped off quickly and killed the engine. Pump just wasnt feeding enough fuel once engine started.

You said you were going to test the fuel rail pressure during and after starting.

Did you?
I was completely blind sided by the fact the car fired with the sensors disconnected so there had to fuel rail pressure even though it was all too briefly... only yesterday I undid the Schrader valve and got side tracked by something else... I did read a Google post ages ago about fuel rails and someone said it doesn't make a difference as it's a rail.... I know the pump works so completely dismissed the option of fuel delivery !
 
SHE RUNS !!!!!!!!!

so after buying the following to fix it :
  1. New ignition switch
  2. New ICV
  3. New Foxwell Scanner
  4. Laptop and downloading INPA and EDIABAS and getting to learn it
  5. Various adaptors including the K DCAN adaptor for the laptop
  6. Have a smoke machine being delivered because one theory was a massive air leak
Plus :
  1. Taking the dash apart and back probing all the pins
  2. Taking out every fuse and relay in the car for parasitic draw (though did find out the alternator was shorting)
  3. Spending hours and hours and hours of reading internet posts for a fix
  4. Wasting hours of YOUR precious time trying to help me
it turns out it WAS the fuel lines being reversed !!!.... I had the supply connected to the left hand fuel rail pipe instead of the right..... as soon as I connected them up properly.. I turned the ignition and it tried to catch..... so turned the key a few times to build up pressure... then went again and she fired right up...just can't believe after all that it was something that basic that I missed.....

So I sincerely apologise for wasting your time when it was me that had cocked up the entire time. The plus side ?... I now know the basics of INPA and I know all the control modules in the car work just fine !
 
That’s great that it’s going now… and that’s all that matters 😂😂😂
 
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