Time for an overhaul of my 1.9 '98 BMW Z3 Individual

[Duncodin]

Yep. I'd be happy with that. I need to keep my chassis rolling for a while but eventually I'll drop my back end mainly to replace all the bushes but I won't bother with the powder coating either. Lick of red lead is OK for me.

 

[Matt Barnes]

Yep. I'd be happy with that. I need to keep my chassis rolling for a while but eventually I'll drop my back end mainly to replace all the bushes but I won't bother with the powder coating either. Lick of red lead is OK for me.

I really like how the Red Oxide goes on....very easy to brush on and it's really sturdy... the Black Smooth is REALLY thin, so you either have to glob it on, or do multiple coats. I'll give the subframe a second coat tomorrow and then do the Trailing Arms.

 

[Matt Barnes]

well.... last day of my week off... but.... a start to the weekend !... more painting !!

Red oxide treatment on the underside of the nearside Trailing Arm

The it was time to hit the offside Trailing Arm underside with Hammerite Smooth

Then I thought I'd give the underside of the subframe yet another coat !

Springs and Trailing Arms reunited

So with every bench now occupied by drying car parts..... might as well dig a guitar out

 

[Matt Barnes]

Morning all... not much to report really other than continuing painting the suspension parts.. this next weekend I'll brave lifting the car up in order to move the jacks, and then start treating the rusty bits on the body (sills mainly)... but in the meantime... does anyone know how you're supposed to disconnect the "quick release" fuel coupling?... I've tried all ways but it just feels it'll break.... cheers

 

[t-tony]

Pushing on the central ring (on the left side of the connector looking at your picture) while squeezing the larger ring at 90 deg from the anchor points should release the connector. You have to push both sides together before it will release. Hope that makes sense.

Tony.

 

[Matt Barnes]

Pushing on the central ring (on the left side of the connector looking at your picture) while squeezing the larger ring at 90 deg from the anchor points should release the connector. You have to push both sides together before it will release. Hope that makes sense.

Tony.

aaaahhhhh thanks @t-tony .. I was trying to squeeze the plastic ring on the right while pulling!.. gotcha... like taking the wand off my pressure washer.. push it, turn 90..then pull....great.. I can empty the tank then !

 

[t-tony]

I didn’t mean to turn it 90 deg mate, just to grip it 1/4 turn from the anchor points . Grip those in your right hand and squeeze, the other in your left hand and push together and pull apart.

Tony.

 

[Matt Barnes]

I didn’t mean to turn it 90 deg mate, just to grip it 1/4 turn from the anchor points . Grip those in your right hand and squeeze, the other in your left hand and push together and pull apart.

Tony.

cheers mate.... at lunchtime I tried turning it, ended up twisting the pipe.. luckily it's plastic ...ok I'll give it a go later

thanks mate

 

[t-tony]

Hope you get it apart Matt. If I was there it’s easier to show than describe.

Tony.

 

[Matt Barnes]

Hope you get it apart Matt. If I was there it’s easier to show than describe.

Tony.

thanks so far mate...I tried again and although I could feel it moving it wouldn't budge..suspect it might have been joined for 25 years..might try with two pairs of pliers and try pushing with those...

 

[t-tony]

You can squeeze too hard if you’re not careful, if the part are squashed out of round it makes it harder. Some WD40 may help.

Tony.

ps. Another option is to cut that joiner out altogether and replace it with a short length of rubber and 2 jubilee clips same as used at the fuel filter.

 

[Matt Barnes]

You can squeeze too hard if you’re not careful, if the part are squashed out of round it makes it harder. Some WD40 may help.

Tony.

ps. Another option is to cut that joiner out altogether and replace it with a short length of rubber and 2 jubilee clips same as used at the fuel filter.

aaaah good point!... like that option! cheers mate....

 

[t-tony]

IF you do cut that connector out, cut it right next to the coupling, leaving those ridges which should give a good seal to the rubber under the jubilee clips.

Tony.

 

[Matt Barnes]

IF you do cut that connector out, cut it right next to the coupling, leaving those ridges which should give a good seal to the rubber under the jubilee clips.

Tony.

good tip mate...thanks

 

[Matt Barnes]

well another day in the garage.... first task was to make up four shrub planters for my wife (this gives me brownie points for extra garage time !! )

then I decided to attack the Diff with the knotted wheel...first I had to remind myself how bad it was on the car

then after a good session with degreaser and a knotted wheel... it was quite therapeutic just sat with an angle grinder (and yes I did tape up the vent hole !).....

I'll get the Dremel out and my flexible drill attachment to get into all the nooks and crannies.... I'll eventually take the back plate off in order to replace the Diff bush.

 

[Matt Barnes]

so another weekend upon us... so today..... is Diff Day !!.... got the Dremel and a number of wire wheel attachments to get into all the nooks and crannies... spent an unhealthy amount of time just whizzing the Dremel around...Gunk degreaser first up

now to me, that Diff bush looks in remarkaby good condition, I might still replace it while the diff is out though

so wire wheel, wire wheel... wire wheel... and wire wheel....

then painted the diff body with POR15 anti rust for 20 minutes...

cleaned and dried it.. in readiness for a first coat of Hammerite Red Oxide Primer...

before painting... I sprayed the backplate with ACF-50 in the hope of stopping the backplate oxidising... permanent solution might be a clear lacquer maybe

so I'll let the Hammerite dry and then give it another coat... then finish off in Hammerite Black

 

[Matt Barnes]

This morning is was time for the top and sides of the Diff to get the Red oxide treatment... first had to warm the paint up !!

then warm the garage up and get painting

and a shiny ass !!

 

[Hut van]

This is a great write up Mat, I’m still on the look out for a nice Z3, but this type of project is great for guys like me who are trying to get as much info and understanding of what weak points to look for when buying a car.
Keep up the good work,you’re definitely an inspiration for us amateurs.

 

[Matt Barnes]

This is a great write up Mat, I’m still on the look out for a nice Z3, but this type of project is great for guys like me who are trying to get as much info and understanding of what weak points to look for when buying a car.
Keep up the good work,you’re definitely an inspiration for us amateurs.

hey @Hut van thank you !.... oh I AM very much an amateur.. it's the first time I've ever done this sort of thing. But I've learnt SO much over the past few months with the help of the people on this forum. It was extremely daunting to drop a subframe and attack the rust...but if you take your time, do the research, plan what you're going to do before you do it, it's not so daunting. Try and do as much of it yourself instead of farming it out, it's by far the best way to learn... I've bought so many new tools since starting this, including teaching myself to weld (ish !) learning how to use anti corrosion treatments, different tool attachments (I never even had an angle grinder before doing this ! ). Don't put any time pressure on yourself or else you'll panic and do things wrong or cut corners.. good luck with your search and I'll keep the updates coming !

 

[Matt Barnes]

Another weekend upon us, so focussed my efforts on the sway bar and diff painting

First a pic of all the crud and corrosion on the Sway Bar

I managed to pull one drop link off by hand... the other needed a little "persuasion" with a puller

both obviously shot..

Drop links, bushes and brackets

Sway Bar after a session with the angle grinder and knotted wire cup.... came up like new !!!..I made sure there was not a speck of rust left

Then it was the knotted wire wheel and Dremel on the brackets... again, came up really well

with all that done... decided it was time for the first top coat on the Diff, this time with Hammerite Satin.... you know... living dangerously ! ..

...if I don't like it the next coat will be Hammerite Smooth.