This is me....

[FlashAir]

Tony.....Thanks so much for your help!! I've got the car provisionally booked up on my mates ramp, with me and him sorting the leak on Tuesday evening. Car seems to drive okay. Options it has are better than I expected....
Pro Stereo with DSP
Xenons
Elec Fold Mirrors
M Suspension
Cruise control
Bluetooth
SatNAv
And loads of other bits.

Will poke around it on Tuesday night. Give it a service too. Wheels will need a refurb, but fine for the winter and I plan on 19" wheels (anyone know how they are, when on M suspension?). Clearly,, the car has had some love. Spacesaver in the boot in a bag, all inflated, an electric aftermarket compressor, spare bulb kit and all the overmats.

Yes....will give it a clean and get some pictures up on here. It's in a great colour too (the "Shark Grey" type metallic!)

Pleased so far....thanks again for the last second advice Tony

 

[t-tony]

Did you find the original spec. from these sites?

https://zroadster.org/threads/how-to-find-the-options-specified-with-your-z-roadster.1420/

Mine had sport susp (now Eibach Pro on original shocks)., Satnav, but none of the others. Fitted CC myself (plug and play with switch).
@gookah wife has 19" on her Z4 not sure what suspension it's though.

Space saver not a standard fit - just the compressor and can of Tyreweld. Mine is Sterling Grey.

Tony.

 

[Mint]

Hi @FlashAir, to the forum from me too in Staffordshire.

 

[FlashAir]

Thanks Mint ^^^

 

[FlashAir]

Oh absolute FU**!!!!!

I think the head gasket is blown. Temp all works fine....heater works....but checked when coles this morning......mayo in header tank

Big job....???

 

[FlashAir]

Yup....pressurised header tank. SOOOO peed off. Reading horror stories about needing the block too.....think its a write off. Great, original car....I think, sold because the head gasket had gone. Doesn't overheat....maybe block still okay?

 

[Jack Ratt]

It's not a big job or a difficult job if you have the tools and general engineering aptitude. There are loads of vids on YouTube to help you.
Head gasket problems are quite common with many BMW engines if you research them.
The engine block tends to escape damage but you'll more than likely have to get the head skimmed and pressure tested. This will cost around £150-£200.
My head gasket blew while I was driving on the motorway through Belgium last summer. Mine was a pretty major catastrophe because my cylinder head warped so much that it pulled all the threads in my engine block. I had to helicoil all the bolt holes.
I did it though and got my car back on the road. It's still not 100% yet but I'm not giving up as I don't like to be beaten even though I've got another Zed.

 

[Jack Ratt]

Here's a link to my experience

https://zroadster.org/threads/euro-cruise-disaster.18407/

 

[FlashAir]

I'm actually reserving judgement again now....as it's stopped raining and I've gone and had a fiddle....

I think the RED rod that shows the level in the header tank has a white float on it....(my 330Ci Clubsport did)....so I think this may have been what I saw? I do suspect that the header tank cap is knackered, as I don't think it is relieving the pressure.

Watch this space...although, I am rarely that lucky!

 

[Jack Ratt]

Can you see any water or oil leakage from the head gasket ?
If not, that's a good sign. Can you see any evidence of oil contamination in the cooling system ? If not even better.
Take your plugs out and see if you can see any oil or water in the cylinders. Try inserting some rolled up absorbent paper through the plug hole and check if it soaks up anything.
These 3 checks should give you a definite diagnosis.
Good luck

 

[t-tony]

A blocked radiator core, a stuck thermostat and even an airlock can cause overheating and pressurisation.

Tony.

 

[FlashAir]

Well, the level has dropped after a short drive (up to normal, mid gauge on the water temp) and there isn't excessive pressure after I've allowed it to cool.....however, the level has dropped and i can SEE THE WHITE FLOAT AND PULED IT UP TO CHECK!!! So....I need to top up. I will go to HalFrauds now and get some premixed coolant (how I wish I hadn't sold my Land Rover garage!! F***ing Biz Partners!!) and top it up and check it properly on Tuesday evening (when I was going to do the rocker cover gasket/oil leak and unplug the roof drains...).

What coolant SHOULD be in it??

 

[t-tony]

Can you see any water or oil leakage from the head gasket ?
If not, that's a good sign. Can you see any evidence of oil contamination in the cooling system ? If not even better.
Take your plugs out and see if you can see any oil or water in the cylinders. Try inserting some rolled up absorbent paper through the plug hole and check if it soaks up anything.
These 3 checks should give you a definite diagnosis.
Good luck

I bought a camera which you connect to your phone an operates through a free App. Simply remove the plugs and you can "see" inside the cylinders and record it to your phone to view later. Very inexpensive if you want a link to buy one (£5.00) just say.

Tony.

ps. Useful tool, I use it at work too.

 

[FlashAir]

As I said....I had a Land Rover garage and we have (had!) a proper borescope camera and alsorts....the attachment to the phone could be a great idea?!

I'm also thinking the header tank cap is okay....there should be SOME pressure in there. Like I said...level is low, but no signs of water egress anywhere....

Blinking heck....!!

 

[mwpe]

What coolant SHOULD be in it??[/QUOTE]

I always use the BMW specific coolant, it is very difficult to find any recommendations for other coolants and it is not good to mix different types. It is not too expensive from main dealers.

 

[t-tony]

If its only a little low why not top it up with water then drain and flush it on Tuesday (Another job for the list) and refill with new Coolant ?

Tony.

 

[FlashAir]

I will top it up....see how it looks on tuesday. Will play it by ear from then on when I know more.

I’m hoping, it’s all good and only requires the rocker gasket....will flush and redo the coolant too....do the drain holes.....check all the bushes!

Fingers crossed.....re-crossed....and crossed again!!!

 

[t-tony]

As I said....I had a Land Rover garage and we have (had!) a proper borescope camera and alsorts....the attachment to the phone could be a great idea?!

I'm also thinking the header tank cap is okay....there should be SOME pressure in there. Like I said...level is low, but no signs of water egress anywhere....

Blinking heck....!!

This like the endoscope I bought.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2M-Endos...263238&hash=item3fabfcd8bc:g:iPMAAOSwDjFbe~75

This is a bit of video from it re handbrake shoe adjusters on Zs.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZ6lfbLP0W8


Tony.

ps. We have one at work but it's rarely useful due to it's diameter. It doesn't go through spark plug holes.

 

[FlashAir]

That is interesting....thanks Tony.

I've been b******** about a bit more....opened the cap up, but the engine was still quite hot when I did it (i know....stupid idiot!) and of course, a load of water came out after much "rushing water" noises etc. This was prompted, because I don't think I put the cap on tight enough when i Topped up when it was cool this morning and I think it blew some out of the cap OR the expansion tank (known weak point?). Drove about 5 or 6 miles....no problem, gauge bang on. Missus gets in the car (we had been for a walk and the kids wanted a go each, in the damned thing) and the coolant low level light came on??? Topped up, drove home and no issues...gauge bang on. Went and checked the level (after I'd been down the driving grange for an hour os so) and the level was low?? Topped up....and now it's playing silly buggers....gauge went straight to the middle when still cold...then quite high...then down again...some heat from heater...then none....then coolant low light on....then gone again.....air lock??? Surely this is an air lock.... whats the best bleed method? Wanna bugger about before I take to my mate on Tuesday (don't ask!)

 

[Jack Ratt]

Raise the front of your car and fill the system. Then turn heater on full and start the car. Then bleed the system through the bleed screw on the radiator. When all the air is out, tighten the bleed screw.