Yes, the inlet was a bit of a fiddle. I suspect we are looking at about 10 minutes for the exhaust sensor
The story so far - or how not to go touring in a Z3
- Thread starter Jon Jeffryes
- Start date
Welcome from Canada and glad tithe zed sorted itself out so you could enjoy Germany!! JIM
Great write up. I enjoyed the read. Really brave going on holiday in an unproven car, but I guess that's half the adventure.
Ian Whiteley
Dedicated Member
Great piece!
Sounds like you've got a great car now!
Sounds like you've got a great car now!
DivideBYZero
Zorg Guru (I)
Good read.
I too have the 2.2, and came to it from my daily driver that has 420hp. It felt very poor initially, but a can of BG44K, Shell Vpower every fill up and a K&N drop in filter have made a great difference. Also, reset the Drive-by-Wire throttle adaptations:
1. Turn ignition ON (KL15) for 10 seconds. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CRANK / START THE
ENGINE.
2. Turn the ignition OFF for 10 seconds.
3. Start the engine.
It's certainly quick enough to get you in trouble, but it's not going to trouble my M car any time soon!
I too have the 2.2, and came to it from my daily driver that has 420hp. It felt very poor initially, but a can of BG44K, Shell Vpower every fill up and a K&N drop in filter have made a great difference. Also, reset the Drive-by-Wire throttle adaptations:
1. Turn ignition ON (KL15) for 10 seconds. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CRANK / START THE
ENGINE.
2. Turn the ignition OFF for 10 seconds.
3. Start the engine.
It's certainly quick enough to get you in trouble, but it's not going to trouble my M car any time soon!
Thanks for the info on resetting the fbw throttle, I'll try that tomorrow. The Jaguar had about 370 horses and most of my Porsches were over 350 so the beemer did feel a little underwhelming initially.
Now it is running as it should, I've relaxed into it's easier gait and am now enjoying the cruise-ability rather than the outright dash!
I started driving 50's and 60's cars in the early 70's when every drive was an adventure (horrible memories of overheating Sunbeam Stilettos come rushing back) so this trip was a relative cakewalk
Yes it's certainly getting there
Thanks Jim...the zed in Germany was so good, we're going to do it again real soon
As a final for this stage, today I fitted the exhaust cam sensor which presented a error code free zed for the first time since I bought it. The car certainly felt peppier on the test drive with better throttle response and increased torque and power. I'm planning to have the engine 'Terracleaned' ...has anyone tried this?
I've also bought the connector to the under bonnet OBD2 connector as I read it was better to read from here than the under dash connector?
I have a whole host of other items I want to work through as a running improvement, the first job is to stop the squeal from the new rear discs and pads recently fitted.
I've also bought the connector to the under bonnet OBD2 connector as I read it was better to read from here than the under dash connector?
I have a whole host of other items I want to work through as a running improvement, the first job is to stop the squeal from the new rear discs and pads recently fitted.
This thread may be an interesting read for you - https://zroadster.org/threads/terraclean-process.8362/
Interesting Thread...I've also had Cata-clean recommended via the Jaguar Enthusiasts Club which is getting good reviews so may take that route first (well it is c.£90 less expensive so worth a pop!)
I've completely bled and refreshed the brake/clutch fluid plus I've stripped the rear discs and pads again and added Mintex Cerratech anti squeal grease...but still have brake squeal so will bite the bullet and rebuild the callipers plus get a tube of gloop from the US which has always worked well on my previously owned Porsche's.
With coolant changed when fitting the new thermostat, hydraulic fluids, a/c re-gassed and engine oil/filter replaced....it's just the gearbox and diff oils to complete the major service for this year. Hopefully once the brakes are sorted I can get on with detailing the car and eventually getting it up to my preferred standard.
Spent a couple of hours this afternoon rebuilding the rear callipers with new seals, slider guides, anti-squeal springs? and a complete clean and refresh. Both pistons were in excellent condition so were reused, all rubber components were replaced and the correct assembly grease (red) was used...plus silicone grease on the sliders and anti-squeal on the back of the pads. The pads and discs are less than 1000 miles old (about 2 weeks) so these were also reused.
Brakes were re bled and the car road tested over 50 miles....brake feel and performance is improved - not so wooden feeling, but I have brake squeal. not all the time and it seems only from the nsr....and not when the brakes are applied - that stops the squeak. What happens is the squeak starts usually at about 35mph when the brakes are hot. this can be on a straight but most of the time during a right hand corner or after a sharp road jolt from the suspension??? Sometimes it stops on its own but usually needs a quick soft dab on the brake pedal to cancel....this is driving me nuts as it existed prior to rebuilding the callipers...does anyone have any suggestions...
Brakes were re bled and the car road tested over 50 miles....brake feel and performance is improved - not so wooden feeling, but I have brake squeal. not all the time and it seems only from the nsr....and not when the brakes are applied - that stops the squeak. What happens is the squeak starts usually at about 35mph when the brakes are hot. this can be on a straight but most of the time during a right hand corner or after a sharp road jolt from the suspension??? Sometimes it stops on its own but usually needs a quick soft dab on the brake pedal to cancel....this is driving me nuts as it existed prior to rebuilding the callipers...does anyone have any suggestions...
It's the near side front 
You know, there's a good chance it could be. Pads and discs replaced about 2500 miles ago here so i will be stripping these today (or it could be desperation setting in!)It's the near side front
The handbrake shoes in the drum part of the disc can come loose, this causes the shoes to rest against the disc and squeal, apply a little pressure to the handbrake when they are squealing and see if it stops?
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Unfortunately Brian I hoped this would be the case....tried it and it didn't cure the noise. this weekend I will pull all of the brakes off and rebuild carefully with anti-squeal compound and see if that solves the problem.
I would also check the rear brake hoses of being pinched by grips or even clamps, this could have damaged the internal wall of the hose preventing full release of brake pressure, which in turn will heat the brake and cause squeal. Just a thought.
Tony.
Tony.
Good call Tony, hoses should be delivered by the weekend so will go on....sledgehammer and walnut approach going on here
Good luck with it all Jon, if I can be of any help just shout.
Tony.
Tony.