Sheared bolts....

[Mazza]

For the sake of 3 gaskets, I agree with @Stevo7682. Also once that ali casting is off it would be a lot easier to clean up. Plus you may have room to do that trick of welding larger nuts onto the broken studs to give you something to put a socket on and turn them out after heating

 

[Fraser]

I see what you mean guys.

Looking at it here, it means removing the head and replacing that gasket too or am I over complicating it??

You know the feeling when you wish you hadn't started something!

 

[Mazza]

You dont have to remove the head. Just the valve cover off the top of the engine, then the top timing case cover. Number 1 in the diagram

If you decide to go this way, I can scan all the appropriate pages from the Bentleys Service manual and email them to you. Plus a list of torque settings that I have compiled
Just PM me with an email address. .

 

[t-tony]

Nice one Malc.

Tony.

 

[colb]

Agree take the timing cover off and give the area a good clean so you can see whats going on. Deffo heat will assist if you have enough of the remaining bolt shanks to get a good grip on with some molegrips. More chance of success by welding nuts on the remains followed by heat and a nice tight socket on the nut. Get some penetrating oil (Plus Gas ) or similar, WD40 is not the stuff to do this job. Best of luck, take your time on each one, no short cuts to this job just methodical steady work. When you refit coat the bolts with copper ease to help stop the steel and alloy reacting against each other, it will ease the job next time it has to be removed in twenty years time!!

If you can't find a induction heater to hire, cheapest ones I have seen is here
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_...eater.TRS0&_nkw=induction+heater&_sacat=34998

 

[Fraser]

Thanks for all the help with this guys

@Brian4 has been really helpful too and has helped take the waterpump out today and get the fan off.

We also found out that the waterpump that I bought 2 years ago doesn't fit my car!!

If anyone needs a waterpump part no. 13T677GA made by Fahren then please give me a shout!!

Is getting the timing cover off as easy as removing the sparkplug, unbolting the sensors, unbolting the rocker cover, then unbolting the timing cover?
Is there anything I wish I knew before I start dismantling everything??

Thanks for your help so far guys!

 

[t-tony]

My old boss had a saying that "If a man put it together, a man can take it apart". After all it's only nuts and bolts.
Obviously a certain amount of know how and confidence does help.
These are the type of grips I use, always flat jaws l never rounded jawed type for this type of job. These are 8" in length but 6" model would be better.

Tony.

 

[Fraser]

Your old boss was right and I agree wholeheartedly.
Its definately the confidence I need with this as I'm fine with other things, but engines scare me a little as if it doesn't go back together right it could go pop!

 

[Brian4]

Your old boss was right and I agree wholeheartedly.
Its definately the confidence I need with this as I'm fine with other things, but engines scare me a little as if it doesn't go back together right it could go pop!

We'll get the top timing cover off carefully when you are ready and leave the bolts soaking in wd or release fluid. as all have said when the cover is off we will have a flat surface to get where the bolts go into the head.

The bolts had corroded into the steel rings in the thermostat.

 

[colb]

Be assured if you manage this job you will breeze through anything else, in at the deep end, you will find skills you didn't know you had. Keep us updated on your progress.

 

[ktnez99]

You dont have to remove the head. Just the valve cover off the top of the engine, then the top timing case cover. Number 1 in the diagram

If you decide to go this way, I can scan all the appropriate pages from the Bentleys Service manual and email them to you. Plus a list of torque settings that I have compiled
Just PM me with an email address. .

View attachment 116049

This is what makes this forum so great! The help and generosity from members who genuinely want to help keep our cars on the road.

 

[Sean d]

I had a couple of similar issues whilst rebuilding my 2.8, I found the best method was to heat the bolts using a mig welder, this also allows you to build up the stump and have more to grab with the mole grips, just need some with a mig, it certainly gets them glowing red.

 

[colb]

Good suggestion using the mig welder, do that but weld a nut on the end so you can get a socket on it, with the heat generated from the welding that should loosen up the bolt shank threads and hopefully turn out using the socket.

 

[Jack Ratt]

@Jack Ratt may be able to advise.

Some good advice already offered and I'd agree with trying to apply some heat onto the bolts if you can. Another way is to try to freeze the bolts. You can get a spray that will freeze the bolts, Scewfix do one for plumbers and I have used it with some degree of success. It works on the principal that when the bolt contracts as it freezes it will break the seal between the bolt and the corroded hole. It says it freezes to -40 so make sure it doesn't go off in your pocket

 

[Nodzed]

As I understand it (could be wrong) you shouldn't use Copper grease where Alloys and steel interact especially if there is a chance of water getting in the mix, use aluminium grease.

 

[t-tony]

I always use multi purpose grease.

Tony.

 

[Fraser]

The freeze spray would probably be the safer and easier option especially as I don't have access to a welder.

The other option is to take the timing case to the friendly garage around the corner and see what they can do once it's removed.

There is a slight leak coming from the seal under the timing case I think, so it may be a case of 2 birds with one stone.

At this point in the proceedings I may as well go the whole hog and accept that the car will be off the road for a while whilst I get this sorted!

I'll get some piccies up on here as I go through it so someone may be able to use it later on if necessary. (I usually forget, get the job done and then think some photos would have been useful! )

I'd just like to say that I think you guys are great and you are the most friendly and helpful group of people I have ever known, so thank you all again for your help!

 

[Fraser]

As I understand it (could be wrong) you shouldn't use Copper grease where Alloys and steel interact especially if there is a chance of water getting in the mix, use aluminium grease.

Thats really useful to know. I try and always use copper grease when replacing bolts. Maybe that is what the previous owner did??

 

[t-tony]

Thats really useful to know. I try and always use copper grease when replacing bolts. Maybe that is what the previous owner did??

Chances are that the bolts have never been taken out in the cars life, and after this probably never will again.

Tony.

 

[colb]

As to using copper grease have a look here
https://www.greasemonkeydirect.com/blogs/news/grease-guide-what-is-copper-grease-used-for

Its fine for coating the threads and shanks of the thermostat housing bolts, it just prevents them corroding against disimilar metals it is not a lubricant.